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i agree. yea it sucks wasting the tire but its the safest bet. hate to see something happen bob...

you can see the intake valves if you take the carbs/vboost off but it could be a bit daunting if you aren't used to that type of work. the right mixture will clean them up eventually

this impressed me more!

the coating on the valves themselves or the carbon buildup on the valves?

a flyscreen may make it worse too as the wind hits me now instead of evenly across chest/head just in the top of my head.

My voltage drops too as it revs, however I have no other problems all I never looked into it -garrett

i liked having a 3.5" front (cazz, but could be done with a wideneed front) for a 130 front which put the speedo right about on and even a 120 would be better with a 180/190 rear.

stock is like 100-110 usually (depending on the dyno), jet kit and exhaust shoudl put you around 110-120+ at the wheel.

i agree too as i remember mine was tight when i eliminated it, took an extra few hits of my deadblow to get the axle out, but hey i was ok with it for a 190 radial.

i'm not sure the gap is a big deal? if things were left loose, ie the pinch bolt until the axle was tight and thats the gap that appeared then its just how it wants to sit eh? it probably shouldn't but if thats how it sits when relaxed...

but it could be the washer swap had been done: http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/fat_tire_installation.htm

that & trust for me. be accepting, but weary and take nothing at face value eh?

did i never update anywhere? the front was fine but the rear was jut about toast in 1500 miles. I think there are better options out there. i liked the 130/70 front option for speedo correctness, fender fit and general ride height etc. if i had kept the radials i would have done a 190...

i had good luck with the shinko verge. depends what front you are going with too. the shinko advance wore too quick.

why are so many people taking off their front fenders? its really not needed for anything but fork rebuilds.... (on such low mile bikes at least)

holy ****, is that your bike? is there a link to a thread if online somewhere?

+1 to mike, not only would it be pinched, and be mushroomed most likely, with that it might actually have a smaller contact patch and have a smaller cross section (as the eye sees it).

when i did mine i ran into that, where the male/female connections went together the male's coating got all rubbed off. i wish i could word that better, hah, but i can't.

haven't heart much about them but the size should work for you, worst comes to worst you'll have to do the washer swap.

where they clamp together does it rub the coating bill?