These are a set of carrozzeria wheels that Sean Morley sold several years ago. You can still find the occasional used set that creeps up. These are 18 inch. The main area where they shine is that they are lighter. i think the stock rear wheel with tire is about 27 to 28 lbs. I think these are...
I think they are the 95 thru 97 FZR 1000 and 96 YZF 750 calipers. For me I didnt use a splitter block. They will be listed as a 2 piece line. Others on here said that the 2 piece line was easier to bleed than the 3 piece line (with splitter)
The swing arm bearings, the race and a bearing on each side of the swing arm. So you change out the race a bearing. Think of a miniaturized version of a hub or a rotor, and you would change out the bearing and race to go onto the spindle.
CV carbs run richer as they get warmer.
The reason why I asked about the exhaust, is an aftermarket exhaust, you actually flow more air OUT, so you PULL more air in (making the carbs richer.....so with an aftermarket exhaust you go LEANER. Slip-ons, not so much....they are basically stock...
There isnt really any difference between the blue dots, and the stock calipers, other than color. The Mid 90's YZF/FZR 6 pot calipers is where its at. More surface area on the pads as well, as well as a better feel on the lever. Plus, the calipers are a bolt on.
You need to find out if the midrange is lean....or rich. Until you know that, everything else is a guess. It might be an educated guess.....but still a guess.
So, think of the airbox, carbs, and exhaust as something that works together. Are you running the stock airbox? With or without the "Y"...
Here is the base
https://www.colorrite.com/product/1253-base-1207.cfm
Top coat
https://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-0918-deep-red-metallic-k-shift-red-1780.cfm
This is what is listed on the color rite website
0918
Deep Red Metallic K (DRMK)
It sounds like a definite clogged pilot jets, (because at idle and just running around town, that the circuit that the Vmax is running off of) and so taking them out, and cleaning them is needed. Ive had good luck with taking out PAJ#2, to get a full blast of air into the jets for a good shotgun...
That is Normal. The whole point of Vboost was so you had basically 1 carb per cylinder. With Vboost opened, It allows basically a carb and a half per cylinder. (the intake is nothing more than an H that the carbs sit on) on top of the cylinders. So basically its over carbureted at the lower RPMS.
Probably 147.5's and a 20 thou shim to start with. I am a big fan of the factory pro needles (if you can find them). I would recommend them pretty much over the stock needles. That way you can adjust them where you want them. They have an amazing transition point.
My 2011 started doing this last week. I got into the diagnostic screen and and it's the accelerometer position sensor. It should read 15 to 16 and mine reads 17. I THINK I can adjust it, without having to replace it. It's D14 in the diagnostic screen.
Here is JKVmax's email. The last time that I bought some ground kits from his is 2021. Hopefully he is still around (We are ALL getting older)
Johan Kjellberg [email protected]
Here are some of his files as well
Here is what and where I've bought needle shims from. You will need 2 kits (for 4 carbs). The 20 thou shim is equal to 1/2 the distance between spaces on adjustable needles. The best way to yet ahold of Sean, is just pure email. [email protected]...
Early articles that you read about the Vmax, generally gave the bike high marks, even in the braking area. In the later magazines, everyone basically said the Vmax engine over powered the stock chassis and fixes have been on to fix various wobbles, flexes and the like have been developed and...