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What you are measuring are 3 things. Measuring the thickness of the disc, to see if there is wear. If there is, replace. Measure the steels for warpage. Then put the steels and discs together, for a total thickness. If the total thickness is not enough, then you replace plate #1. Remeasure your...

Its to measure the total width of the clutch disc and the steels. Here is from the factory service manual. It looks like you measure the disc, measure the steels, and then measure all of them together.

He is, he is just on FB more.

When the 2011 was stock, i dynod it , and it was 170 hp and 108 lbs of tq. With the reflash and exhaust, I went to 178 and I think 113 TQ. Since then tuned it to 187 and 119 TQ. I do have the Triple threat airbox mod....and have since learned, that the filter on the right might be hanging up the...

On the dyno, it will read a theoretical top speed of 175 (at 10K). In real life Ive heard of people being clocked at 168 to 169. Ive dynod mine a couple of times. What do you want to know?

First it does away with the HEAVY stock engine braking. Also does away with the speed limiter.....IE 138 mph. Balances all of the injectors. I believe its the left front thats a little bit lean (compared to the others), and the left rear thats a little bit rich. It also does away with the...

This might make it easier. This is what I run in the Ignitech. The stock timing curve is set at 3 degrees, I have my idle set at 10. It idles so much better, and remember, the Vmax came out in the 80's so emissions and smog were a concern. On the left side of the Ignitech graph, It does say...

These are the best spacers because they are precision. The distance between the clips on stage 1 and stage 7 needles is .040. The kit comes with .010, .020, and .030. Ive only had to run the .020.....which would be called a 1/2 clip......half of the distance between clips. These kits are for...

As far as Timing, I would say stick with the dynojet curve #2. You can still run 87 octane fuel with it. I am running an Ignitech ecu (which is programmable as well). On the dyno with a tank full of 87 octane I went from a stock curve, to the dynojet curve #2, and picked up almost 2 HP. Curve #2...

Mileage is controlled by the needles. To get better mileage to clip needs to be closer to the blunt end, making the needle go further into the carb body. The best luck that I had when i was playing with a stage 1 kit, was 150 main jets, stock 170 PAJ#2's and having the needle set at the first clip.

It doesnt give a volume out, merely a pressure. Here is from the factory service manual.

I would say that its a pressure problem. There was a post on the old starVmax forum, where a stock pump had to be replaced, because it wasnt putting out the required pressure anymore, and HP was suffering because of it.

Check the fuel pressure coming out of the pump. Stock pump, correct? This is what Ive found on thepump. Maximum consumption amperage 6.5 A Output pressure 324.0 kPa (3.24 kgf/cm², 47.0 psi)

What were the volts with it idling and the fan kicked on?

If the voltage drops when the fan kicks on, I would say that it might be time for the R/R to be replaced (or atleast check the grounds.....clean wires.....etc). Its not putting out enough voltage to keep up with demands. The below thread should help...

It might still be a pilot jet clogged. Ive done shotguns before, and NOT been able to fully remove a clog from a pilot jet until I removed PAJ#2, for a full blast of air thru it. Usually flames out the exhaust is due to a lean condition, and the fuel doesnt ignite in the cylinder. It then enters...

Yes. Tim's reflash also deals with the extreme engine braking the bike has in stock form .

I know the reflashed ecu gets rid of the factory limitations. Feom the factory the gen 2 is governed to 138 top speed and in first and second gear, the throttle bodies are governed to approx 30% opening until approx 40 mph. Also according to Tim....from the factory 1 cylinder is slightly...