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What are your A/F screws set at? That's what covers 0 to about 4000 rpm at about 1/8 of the throttle. So exactly what your cruising on going around town. With my needles on the leaner side, I would get between 40 and 45 mpg. Average around 42. That was fueling up, driving about 25% around town...

Thank you very much.

Thank you very much my friend.

The Gen 2's are almost bulletproof. I HAVE gotten into the diagnostic screen without disconnecting the fuel pump. Part of the diagnostic program is to actuate various things which you do not want to do if the bike is under fuel pressure, but if you are just looking, not really an issue, make...

For those that dont know, BRC carb shop is under new ownership. Several months ago Danny contacted me to see if I wanted to take over the business from him, and I said yes. First of all, let me say that I am DEEPLY HONORED. For someone to reach out to me, and is willing to trust me with the...

The map that you are using, did you get it off of the website, or from Sean? The maps are slightly different between the 2. Do you know what version your using? I'm assuming v96? I suspect that you don't have the servo enabled. I downloaded the v96 version and put in a map and took some pics. Eric

I do run 155 on all 4. Now, one of those things that I learned years ago, the back cylinders do run just a bit hotter at idle, and that's why I suspect in the early yamaha literature that yamaha said they put 150s in the front, and 152's in the rear. Years ago, at idle and the bike level, the...

Well I didn't do anything to my Vmax, but I did go visit Dannymax.....aka Danny and his lovely better half over the weekend. They truly are the nicest people. My wife and I really enjoyed the trip.

Shouldn't be any issues. I've run a shinko 170 with no issues. Just make certain there isn't any rubbing on the left side.

You can also use partzilla, which used to be boats.net. Any part factory related can be gotten from there.

Lol....I've cheated when faced with this problem. I've taken the MC off and taken to a machinist that is about 10 mins away. It's was 15 dollars and had it back in under 30 mins.

This forum is a great place for information. Carbs will definitely need to be rebuilt, as well as forks, and brakes, probably slave cylinder, clutch disc's might be stuck together. Now....keep in mind, ANYTHING can be fixed, and this forum can show you EVERYTHING Vmax wise. Welcome to the group.

Sean Morley....aka one2dmax, usually has a kit that he can send to people that will help diagnose their electrical issues.

Well per the manual the plugs need to be changed every 12k miles but people have gone 40k with no apparent issues. Do you have a pod300 or an autotune installed as well?

That can also be a symptom of the oil that your using. The oil that is REALLY recommended is Rotella t4 15-40. Yes....it's a diesel oil, but if you remember the vmax was designed is the early 80s....and really didn't change significantly all the way thru 07. The gen 1s really don't seem to like...

No, the Valves dont need to be adjusted until like 26K.

Plus the stock paper filter just isnt the best. I'm a big fan of a cleanable bronze filters.

Sean Morley aka one2dmax, Danny Unwin aka Dannymax, Kyle Clegg aka Capt Kyle.

Because you have a vent tube that runs from the engine crankcase to the bottom of the airbox, I believe it's oily condensation that is in the bottom of the airbox. It can't get into the carbs because the velocity stacks are mounted in the airbox and in the way.

Just my own personal thoughts....with your brother giving you the bike, keep it. If you get rid of it, you will regret it. Again, just my own personal thoughts.