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If it can be reasonably proven that the bike has been in an accident and the PO didn't advise of this then could you ask for your money back? That looks as if the bottom yoke has contacted the frame down tube? I can't see if the bump stop is there which should have stopped the yoke coming round...

IMO that would not be a good idea as you could end up with bearings that are too tight or too loose. What you need to try and establish what the incremental difference is between the range of bearings. You could try with two bearings from the middle of the range (e.g. 3 & 4) and assuming one...

No, not realy. I Done properly they are shiny but not as much as chrome. The important point to note in the guide is that when you move to the next grit you need to remove all of the scratches from the previous grit before moving on. Now they look all shiny what next? If you add clear coat...

Are you saying that the markings shown below are missing?

One option attached

I'm not worrying just trying to offer advice; it's up to you if you choose to take it. I agree with Mr Medic. Whilst I appreciate your financial position, we can't choose our accidents nor the outcome. Some reading for you here, here and here.

Impressive work, well done. Unless I've missed it I would be interested to know what difference it has made to torque, power and fuel consumption.

Did you put them on recently if not how did you establish how old they are?

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If it has been standing around unused for those 16 years then as Mr Medic suggests the fist job will be to give it thorough going over first. The carbs will probably benefit from stripping and may require ultrasonic cleaning. Turn the engine over using the large hex on the flywheel to make sure...

LO and welcome. Unless you are completely ham fisted the majority of jobs are reasonably straight forward and well within the ability of most home mechanics. Perhaps you could give an indication of the sort of things you are considering or need help with? There are plenty of folk here who are...

...once your eyes stop bouncing around your head!? 🥴 IMO not a good idea particularly at the speeds you need to test it at.

As it was running then I'd suspect something in the ignition cut-off system isn't working. First thing to check would be the side stand and clutch switches as follows: Main switch on and engine stop switch on 'Run' Transmission in gear and side stand is up Pull in clutch lever and push 'start'...

Suggest you invest in a Manual or download a wiring diagram which will show how the OE loom is connected.

PS Don't forget to set the static sag.....:D

Not sure if fuel can or does make it up as far as the lock barrel, perhaps Mr Medic can offer an opinion? Locks should be lubricated with graphite powder. Dirt and general crud introduced via the key will eventually gum up the wafers (learned a new term, ta FM) as it will stick to oil. It is...

Another good contact cleaner (and again pricy) is Deoxit. As a quick fix just make and break the connector several times. Provided they are not burnt or loose this will clean the contact area sufficiently to remove any corrosion.

If the OE springs results in the bike being more upright wouldn't that suggest less sag?

The end of the valve guide, part #'s 5 & 11.

Like most things in life, you tend to get what you pay for. Whilst Ohlins are nice how many rider can get the benefit they offer and there are other limitations in the Max will, IMO, deserve attention. The cost a more reasonably priced rear end would leave some cash to improve the front with...