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By dropping the rear of the bike you will be increasing the steering head rake angle which increases the trail thus getting more castor effect. The greater the rake angle the more stable the bike will feel but will require more rider input to steer the bike. The principle behind this is...

Good decision. Just in case you don't have one, a Service check sheet is attached.

The size of the tyre, a.k.a. rolling radius is only one part of the gearing which will influence potential top speed and/ or acceleration. You also need to consider the ratio's within the gearbox and final drive regardless of it being chain or shaft. Other factors will be the power output of...

Not something I've noticed, when were the carbs last synchronised?

You should also have # 27 & 28

Check the fuel tank breather is clear.

Is this a sudden loss of power or does it just fade away? Is the time before it 'performs' consistent or does it vary with (say) ambient temperature or type of riding. If time how long? Does it need to be cold before it will start or can there still be some heat in the engine. After it has died...

In this instance it may but as Stephan has suggested the screw that retains it is most likely to have loosened allowing it to turn. The attached shows how it is retained.

We heard you the first time...and the second but the third feels like you are nagging...:rolleyes: 2LT was used at various time between 1987 and 2005 and as you have realised frame and engine numbers don't necessarily match. 2LT in '98 started at at frame # 0013102 and the next reference I have...

Are they removable? Unless there is a specialist supplier I'm not aware that you can. Assuming they can be replaced then perhaps a scrap motor?

Yes, there will be coolant in the hoses. Not sure why you need to remove them though. If the tails of the clamps are in the way then move them round. If your plug spanner is too wide then use a box spanner instead. If not already done cross drill the top end for a tommy bar.

Use a length of thicker wall pipe instead (I used some heater hose) which is self supporting and easier to guide onto the spigot with the overflow bottle moved out of the way.

According to this, yes.

As MrMax1985 suggest the white wire come from the stator. It isn't original wiring that is going into the connector but what is there should go to the regulator/ rectifier. I wonder if the r/r is OE? IMO there is nothing wrong with multiblock connections provided they are tight and clean.

Fork seals are 4PU-23145-01 and the bushing and the upper bushing 5EB2312500 and lower bushing, 5EB2317100 both available from your Yamaha dealer. You may also want to inspect the washer that sits under the oil seal, 4V4-23146-L0 and also the dust seal, 4PU-23144-00. That little lot comes to...

Whilst happy to be told I'm wrong, I think those circuits are actuated via the chocolate coloured wires. If one of those is going to earth would that cause the issue? It would be worthwhile having a look inside the indicator/ dimmer switch housing to see if anything is adrift in there. Failing...

It would help if you gave the year and model of the donor bike but I'm assuming the forks are 41mm diameter? Assuming it is a either a 750 or 1100 with rwu forks my concern would be the difference in weight between to donor which is 56Kg lighter than the Max for the 1100 and 96Kg for the 750...

I'm assuming that they will be right way up forks of either 40 or 43mm diameter? Assuming that is the case then what would be the benefit of fitting them? Questions you need to consider: Are they the same overall length as OE? What is the difference in weight of the donor bike verses OE? What...

I find that using the correct JIS screwdriver works best and prevents the screws getting mangled.

I am not an expert in this type of swap but I would have thought that with the additional weight of a four wheel street vehicle you want an engine that provides a good spread of torque? The Max engine should fit that requirement?...with V Boost!