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You would need to establish the width of the rim and check with tyre manufacturers what sizes they recommend. Once you have that the next step would be to ensure that there is sufficient room for the swinging arm to accommodate it. I have a 180 on a 5 1/2" rim and the clearance is minimal with...

If that were so then all Maxii would exhibit the condition, which they don't. It would also affect all other shaft driven bikes which as far as I'm aware, is not the case. Correct with OE hardware but some movement can be effected if the fixed (drive shaft side) swinging arm pivot is replaced...

+12v to black/ yellow wire terminal and -ve wire to black/ red the servo should operate. Also measure resistance between yellow/ blue and white/ red wiring terminal connector on the servo then between white/ red and white/ black. Add the two resistance's together which should be between 5.25 and...

Yamaha part # 90105-10376 You can work out the size from this

I'll assume that the pump is getting power when it should and that it is an internal issue. In that case you need to check the continuity of the circuit i.e. power goes in one wire and comes out of the other. You need to trace the circuit and check that you have continuity between every part, in...

I'll stick my neck out here and say that con rod failure is NOT a generic design fault with the Max. There will inevitably be failures but this can be down to various factors including poor or non existent maintenance or abuse e.g over revving by the user. As this is a Forum for V Maxii all...

If it won't run with a direct feed then it is time to strip the pump to establish what the problem is.

Don't recall WP doing fork springs but that doesn't count for much... First step would be to see what sag you have and move on from there.

Nowt wrong with the OEM jobbie (1FK2456010)...apart from the price:eek: Alternatives here - you need one to fit 5/16" fuel line

The forks may have changed the steering geometry which could alter the feel of the steering. It will be difficult to comment on how a bike feels compared to another (e.g. your Honda) which is complicated by the Max having a non OE front end. Additionally one individuals perception of what...

From what you describe it would appear that cleaning the carbs initially sorted the problem but further contamination has been drawn in. When was the fuel filter last changed? Have you looked into the tank to check for signs of corrosion?

I have been on this site since 2007 and don't recall any con rod failures (I assume you mean snapped?) Perhaps you could indicate where you heard this 'rumour'? There are the very rare big end failures (and I mean very rare) and I suspect mo more than any other machine. You would need to remove...

Are you referring to the spacer(s) #23 & 43? If so yes, you need them as they apply preload to the springs which is required to give the desired amount of static sag. NB - these sit on top of the springs. NNB - The OE springs are progressively wound or are they springs made by Progressive?

Have you set the static sag yet, if not then your observations are not that relevant.

Rather than start a new thread it would be better if you continued from your previous post so that the same information previously given isn't duplicated. The help previously offered still stands.

They are a tight fit but with a bit of pushing and shoving not too onerous.

I assume your 'mechanic's' referral to the 'air tube' is the tank vent? With the cap off the vent is irrelevant as air can escape around the filler neck.

Before tearing into the carbs it would be prudent to do some basic checks first: The carbs are synchronised Foat heights are correct You are getting sufficient fuel into the carbs (check fuel filter) The breather set-up is correct, the S7 breather has two outlets for crank-case gasses. First...

Is the bike on the centre or side stand when you fill it?

If the spacers are that short then I doubt that they are applying too much preload. With spacers omitted the forks would drop down and the springs would abut against the bottom of the fork caps. It would mean that there isn't any preload on the springs and in your case shorten the effective...