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Normal fork oil is 10W, for a bit heavier usually you go to 15W. You also safely use ATF - it's very much the same stuff. To drain is easy: - put bike on center stand, then jack up under motor so front wheel is in the air - remove brake calipers, tie them aside - remove front wheel - remove...

I can see the screw and it seemed tight all the way, with 4 washers on it. It may be bottoming out - try adding a 5th washer to it (usually the one closest to the lever is a plastic washer) then you should be able to tighten it a bit more and it should hold.

Now THAT is a fantastic story. We should have an award for such a thing. And I love the pics with the puppy and the dog now - unreal! So glad you got your bike back, great parting pressie from your parents, and even better it's still in the same awesome condition. Congrats :)

That exhaust is a UFO Quadzilla - it's stupidly loud, but it hurts performance as it lacks some needed back pressure. A lot of people like it because of its looks, and loudness too. Shame it saps power! Great buy for the money though, you got yourself a decent bargain! Oh, and welcome to the...

I say part it out - you'll make enough cash to buy a good running one! Example: I bought an '86 basket case (no bodywork not running) for $650. A few months later, I'd made over $2000 and still had almost half a bike! And that was in FL, and giving/selling a lot of parts really cheap to VMF...

But a chain drive is a rather expensive and involved option..

Most plausible cause for popping is an air leak. Double check airbox and carbs are properly seated in rubber boot. Check all rubber boots (including the one the Vboost valves sit in are in good shape. Check all your exhaust connections for leaks / loose joints.

Yup, a sealed gel or AGM battery is what you want - no leaks ever.

my FL '86 bought with 37k and run to 48k - sold it never had a gear issue my FL '00 bought with 24k, was fine when bought, some ******** abused it in the 11 months it took to get to me (long story) and the 2nd gear is gone at 24,000. my TX '86 bought with 23k on clock, another couple thousands...

my FL '86 came with this thing - really helped with the old style Corbin seat!

You need to re-sync after dismantling the carbs, I've often seen this where it's impossible to get it to idle (either dies or races to high rpm) when the sync is way off.

Yup - we're planning on trying for a US trip at least once a year, so we will catch up! And yea, three nice bikes in mt garage as I returned - awesome! The V65 is a typical Honda, even after 4 months in the cargo hold, turn the key, hit start and it purrs into life :) The ZL1000s are awesome...

AFAIK they are all the same. The only possible difference is internal, pre or post '93 when the rotors/calipers grew bigger?

Do take off your rear wheel, then unbolt and pull off the differential. I've seen/heard that very loud gear whine only when off the gas, and often it simply is the nut in the diff that's come loose.

I always used Rotella-T when I lived in the US. Worked flawlessly. Here down under, we have no Rotella. I still use Shell, but it's a version of Helix oil.

Only the spindle? The Div wheel will still need some modding to accept the shaft drive, methinks..

Thanks Paul that's what I understood. When I go to swap my TCI I will test all four coil feed cables and compare resistance.

'86 bought in 2008 for $4100 (yea, woops) with 37k miles, but it did come with FatMax hard bags, Corbin seat and nice custom black w/ blue specks paintwork '00 bought end of 2011 for $4000 with 24k on the clock, almost stock other than custom orange paint, and in mint condition '86 bought in Oct...

No apology needed! I'm hoping the TCI swap will fix it here, but it'll be interesting to find out what your problem is too.

In a way it could be interesting to have a poll on 2nd gear failures, with age of bike and mileage at time of failure - maybe some pattern could emerge? Although I reckon the answer is: bike abused = fail, bike looked after = no probs.