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Well Eric I can tell you this on our race eng. the best water temp to run at for max HP was 135 to 140 F. After 145 F every degree was a loss in HP & adding more fuel made it worse. The key was to get the cylinder temp correct & then the jetting right for max HP. Dave

After you start it did you check to make sure the button was all the way out ? Dave

Exactly that's why I would of thought the jets would of been the other way around. Dave

Not sure I get that I would think the rear cylinders would run hotter which should make them run leaner. :ummm: Dave

Sounds like the starter button is sticking. Dave

Right on jets not floats. :clapping:

Maybe I'm not reading it right but did you say it gets leaner in higher altitudes? If so it should be getting richer. :ummm: Dave

Well I can't read the size on the side cover but it's either a RD350 or RD250. Dave

1972

I don't think they have a parts break down for the ignition switch. You will have to find a used one for your parts. Dave

Something doesn't seem right if you got one idle mixture screw at 2.5 & the others at 3.5. :ummm: Dave

I don't know I've always cleaned case surfaces with lacquer thinner & even used gaskets. Most of the time used over & over a lot. I found being clean it can't bake on. Dave

My bike has stock wheels & swing arm & tracks straight with hands off bars. Dave

I don't think this problem has anything to do with the caliber. Did you try adjusting the free play screw as said ? Dave

I've had mine all apart there not hard at all just take your time & lay things out in order. Dave

I'm going with you on this one.

Unless you got the weep hole plugged solid you can't get one into the other that way. :ummm: Dave

Dielectric grease in all plugs works great to stop corrosion.

If the fan is on all the time & you put the thermostat in that I told you about it shouldn't even get up to half way. At this point there's something else going on there.

When flushing did you open the radiator drain valve & forget to close it ? :ummm: Dave