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I'd suggest files as a last resort, a small brass brush (dremel - does that translate?) or wire wool is be a gentler way. Or fine wet n dry. II'm sure there other way but that's the best I can come up with at the moment. A q tip dipped in Wd40 may be enough to clean up.

To check the coils, the only measurements that matter are shown in black (LT) and purple (HT). I guess because the front coils are still on the bike that this is causing difficulty getting the probes onto the HT terminal? So you overcome this by inserting a short piece of HT lead and get no...

Yeah but Ii's never too late to learn tho'. The location as mentioned above. A replacement looks like this: So a matter of undoing 2 bolts and disconnecting 3 connectors. The 3 connectors are different and keyed so it would be impossible to plug them back incorrectly.

Just so i am clear. The HT lead is removed as in photo below and meter probes touch contacts. (I may have red/white wire in wrong position). There are 3 possible measurements (meter lead positions are interchangeable) - black is measuring LT coil resistance - purple is measuring HT coil...

Post #91 has picture of ignition coil. Red/white wire is common to LT and HT coils, the other lead is at other end of LT coil whereas the HT lead connects to other end of HT coil. Resistance between the two leads is order of 3 ohm (LT coil) Resistance between red/white and HT connection is...

Please don't attempt for the very reason you state - I thought you had the top off. It oughta be possible to test the ignition relay and turn signal on the bench - did you say the turn signals are working? Check LED buls have not been fitted as they cause issues.

Are you able to post a photo of the ignition / turn signal relay innards? There is likely to be one or 2 microcontrollers and same number of relays, plus some passive components. The relay coils are likely to switched by a transistor - the clicking is possibly due to insufficient power to...

Why? If the engine turns over with it connected then there are no issues with it. Is it still making the noise? Also if turn signals work (you won't be able to test the self cancelation until you are moving - not 100% true, there is a way should we come to that) , then I'd say leave it...

We may be chasing a non issue. (my fault, sorry) Curiosity got the better of me so I removed the fake tank and seat (2 screws) - it will let me charge the battery. So voltages are below, my bike runs very well so I assume the voltages are OK - note when running they will be higher due to...

I don't know what manual you are using but from the wiring diagram the red/white wire and voltage atthe coils should be smae as battery. Also from the service manual (there is link on this forum if you don;t have it). I dson't understand why you are seeing nearly 1 volt drop across the...

I've not looked at the ignition switch so expected the switch to have tags, it doesn't. It has a lead with a 3 pin plug. No matter, you need to unplug the plug and measure resistance between red and brown wires, this should be next to zero. A Google to find an example switch shows...

There are thousands of Vmax bikes running OEM ignition so I don't consider COPs are the magic bullet. If it won't run with coils, say because the ignition unit is toast, then COPs won't help. Have you disconnected all the coils and measured primary and secondary resistance for each? The...

Define how you measure if it's worth it. Efi gives better control of fuel mixture and better tunability. Also you would never have to worry about cleaning the pilot jets after lay up - which would be my reason (I've fitted a fuel pump cut off switch that will allow me to drain the fuel bowls...

I don't expect the lower cap resistance to cause issues so let's put that to one side. BTW you did reconnect the ignition /turn signal relay? The laws of physics are consistent regardless of whether you are in Birmingham, Wisconsin or Hamamatsu. Old British bikes were overseen by Lucas...

In theory yes. Putting resistance into the circuit results in a spark of lower voltage, which can get to the point it is no longer reliably igniting the mixture - nobody wants that = reduce performance. (ohms law states you are sapping the spark of power) The caps should be 10 K ohm The plugs...

If the carbs are still off, it would make loads of sense to remove the jets from the block to see if holes are clear. Now the starter is turning the engine, did you reconnect the ignition/turn signal relay? It's disconnection may be preventing a spark - from the wiring diagram it appears not...

Yes, literally (I'm amazed they still have 5 fingers per hand)

My money is on the fat black lead, that you were told to connect to the battery is the starter motor power lead that oughta go to the solenoid. DON'T CONNECT IT WITHOUT FINDING OUT WHAT IS ON THE OTHER END,

They're cheap enough to replace. I have a spare set ad mine have hardened and are showing small cracks at the openings, that I will replace next time I pop the carbs off, I mean the bike is 24 years old fer crying out loud!!!

My only suggestion is to check the rubber boots for cracks. They age and develop cracks letting air in that would weaken the mixture and would happen over a short period of time. Also check the carbs are fully seated in the boots to the vboost manifold and the clamps are tight.