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One of my projects that never got off the ground was to fit a 7 segment LED indicator for gear but I did not think there was enough room below the blanked off lamp. I wad planning to use a microcontroller to calculate the gear from engine rpm (tacho signal) and reed switch in the speedo head...

Just to add, you said 2 cylinders were affected - do those cylinders share the same Vboost manifold?

What about the bushes for the spindle in the Vboost. And the single itself, what are they made from? There are brass parts in the carbs such as jets, the main needle runs in a brass tube, could that be bent or incorrectly fitted to be rubbed on the tube? It would not harm removing the cabs...

Hello Servicing is pretty straightforward : oil and filter, air filter, rear drive oil, spark plugs.... all DIY able. Buy a oil filter wrench (I forget the size) as the oil filter will be on tight. You need a 3/8 in thin walled spark plug socket. Replacing the coolant, read the manual to...

Just done that on 2 consecutive weekends. The hardest part is getting the carb rubbers off the V boost manifold. After undoing the screws on the clamps, try pushing a flat bladed screwdriver in between the rubber and manifold to loosen it a bit, you will be able to do 1/4 of the way round...

Just wanted to stress how important testing is before final assembly especially if it results in a lot of time /money to disassemble. I should have done that the first time around - me culpa, especially since I once worked for the company that made the mirror for the Hubble telescope. At the...

I've removed the carbs after marking the one that was overflowing. Taking out and cleaning the needle valve tips, all looked OK except the faulty one that had some brownish coloured stuff around it. Reassembled and was ready to refit but thought I'll restest them first. Good job I did as...

I got lucky once doing that but not this time. Carbs off again this weekend. (was hoping to avoid this but knew deep inside that wasn't going to happen) Note to self, when carbs are off check and clean the needle valves. Note 2 to self, prior to installing, fit hose and funnel to pour fuel...

+1 most likely the idle jet is blocked. Did mine last Sunday after nor using over winter.

If you remove the left hand air scoop, held on by 2 Allen he'd bolts, M4 key, you will see 3 black plastic modules. There should be a a large square one near the back, this is the Boost module. Re replacing the seals on the slave, Search for my post on it, from memory parts cost around £15...

The coolant should be a mixture of water (distilled or deionised is good) and anti freeze., see manual for composition % There is a plastic valve at the bottom of the engine that needs to turned when emptying the coolant - see the manual. Is the fan coming on? Do have a decorative grille...

As per title I have fuel coming out of the overflow hose (one of the two hoses that fit to the top of the airbox). I'm pretty sure I will have to take the carbs off to check the needle valve but am hoping someone may have a tip that avoids that. Last Sunday I took the carbs off for what is an...

I have to say it does look more like part 23 but I will defer to the more knowledgeable folks on here confirm, post 13,442 in here shows what it looks like once removed (the seal came as part of my kit) https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-vmax-today-part-2.8470/page-673...

That looks about right, but whilst you are in there, replace the seal for the push rod. It's a bitch to get out - I wrote about how I did it with a photo of the home made extractor tool. Search the forum as I recall there are some useful tips. Copper crush washers can be reused by annealing...

I made a bracket from thin aluminium sheet, painted black, to cover the rear brake master mounting as it was damaging my right boot. It uses the same bolts. The photos say it all.

The seal is the correct way round. firstly it looks very much like I am the first person to overhaul the clutch slave, I checked the service manual but the diagram is not great and lastly found a video of someone overhauling slave that when pausing the video, could just make out the direction...

Thanks for the late tip, I did not see any ball bearings. Only way it could come out was if push rod was magnetised. At quarter to 7 got the lever bled - a long day - and clutch is very firm. Let's see how it stays like that. During testing I almost had a heart attack as engine stalled...

The most difficult task so far, removing the seal. Started off by using a bicycle spoke at various positions in the hole but noticed it bending (the bend should be 90 degree) and got worried it may break off inside. Took a piece of mild steel yo make a puller.... and it's out.

Push a piece of rubber hose over the push rod and out it comes no need to label ad hemispherical end engages in the slave. Now to pull out the seal and clean up .

And for those who cannot get hold of replacement cylinder so are replacing the internals using a kit, just checking the seal is the correct way round? (as removed from cylinder)