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Politics sucks. American politics more so. OMG, some of you guys are CRAZY. Who gives a ****? NOT ME!!! I appreciate that if I want to know what some Americans think, I can look at it. It's not all over the forum, it's in the right spot. So, although I don't give a ****, I am saying "Nope...

Pics or it didn't happen.

Wel that is good news! :eusa_dance:

What a piece of rubbish! :rofl_200: Oh well. How would it go if you got the oil pump gear narrowed down 1/4" and moved the other gear further over the key? That would make it 3 times as strong!!! (as long as the gears didn't foul etc etc.) Or extend the keyway and use a longer key, if he's...

Great job. Looks like new! :biglaugh:

I think you are on the right track. If you can borrow a black box for testing, that would be ideal. You can test the wet float levels with it running to be 100% sure it's not a fuel blockage. Or spray aerostart around the carby rubber in case it's got 2 split rubbers. As suggested, check coil...

If it has Racetechs, they are much shorter. From memory, the Progressives are dual rate, so a portion of the spring is wound at one rate, the rest at another. I think the originals have a varying coil rate. Best idea is, take them out, take a pic, measure free length, look for a part number on...

I still think R/R. Battery charge rate? Battery voltage when dead? Bad earthing of R/R can cause it to overheat too. Or maybe you ran over a fairy who was happily collecting pixie dust.

The ones Dingy sells are the TCI unit. Programmable ignition, rev limiter, programmable v-boost and more is possible.

Just based on what you said, and assuming that you have had the bike running properly before, then the exciter wire for the starter solenoid is shorting out somewhere (other than the switch). Trace it back!

You can get Sean Morley to post a set of needle shims.

G'day Stewart! That's screen looks great, and unique I'd say. Looks lowered too. Nice bike!

Oh yeah, a "forced vibration" is now looking likely. Any vibration will be less after a carby balance, thus it will be quieter at it will get rattled around less.

In by experience if you overbake, you will start getting discolouration, and it gets harder not softer. It's not recommended to re-coat for some reason, but it's really just like having a 2nd coat I guess. I have re-coated, and contamination was the problem that I got. Maybe you should just...

+1 more You got a bit of work there! Make sure you check the cam journals and balance shaft before you buy too much stuff. It might be much cheaper to get a running motor!

+1 ^ The picture is correct. The spring seats on that washer, so it has to go on 'top' or the circlip. Unless you want to shim up the needle. That's a different story.

Ha ha ha. Don't feel too bad Ryan. My dad had a pretty bad time with his first job... When he started work, he figured he knew all the jokes. "Get me a left handed screwdriver" "Go to the hardware store and get me a bubble for a spirit level" "Go see Dave and ask him if he has a long wait"...

I have to repair a rearset and I want to change the thread size. I thought the chinese pegs I had would be 8mm, but they aren't metric. So, I want to make them suit Kuryakin pegs. What size thread do Kuryakin pegs have? :biglaugh:

Dunno Have you used the powder before?

I agree with OP, if it's something that could go on a HD, it's probably cheaper searching that way. Not too many things cross over though. Sean and Kyle are usually as good as you can get, without any effort at all!