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When you tested compression, engine was warm and you opened throttle wide open when turning over correct? To see why compression readings are low, you'll need a leak-down tester. Could be piston rings, worn cylinder bores, valves, head gasket.

The sounds I hear are not normal. To remove that bearing, need to remove that big nut but also a press or special press tool to press the bearing race down and pull out the middle gear spring retainers out. I doubt it can be done on the bike and the counter shaft will need to be completely...

While it's running, spray some brake cleaner around the manifolds and boots to see if idle changes.

Try this one: http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/D3K7-7.pdf

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/396448/Dynatek-D3k7-6.html

From 2005, Sturgis rally. Great man.

Holy ****....RIP brother, I was just thinking how I missed our rides at Sturgis and Thunder. Thanks for letting us know Kyle.

You'll need to split the cases to diagnose and repair the transmission. You might be able to scope out something broken in the middle gear by removing output middle gear but not the whole transmission.

I did the same as Captain except also did Morley's HD oiling mod. Different intermediate oil pump drive gear that has an extra tooth.

Yeah, should be fine. The ball would just stay in the input transmission shaft which is obviously hollow. When you put the pushrod back in would push the ball bearing back in place.

One side of the pushrod has a dimple. this is the seat of a 11/32" steel ball on the other side and inside of pushrod #2. Be careful as not sure if that ball can fall inside with pushrod #1 removed?

Yeah, clutch pushrod #1 seal. Other side of that should see small, round, metal oil gland that lubricates the pushrod. Mark

Check post #5 here: Starter Circuit Diagram Problem` Once you find it, test DC volts coming out of red/white wire while neutral. S/b 12 volts. It should stay 12 volts with bike in gear, side stand up, clutch pulled. If not, it's the cutoff circuit that has an issue.

Maybe he did that to bypass the clutch switch, thinking that's the problem. Put bike in 2nd gear and roll with clutch pulled in. When you release the clutch you should feel clutch engage. If so, clutch is good at least. Otherwise, test that starting circuit cutoff relay or try bypassing it...

Wondering if ignition is being cutoff. Is your sidestand up? What happens when you try to start the bike with clutch pulled, sidestand up, bike in gear? It should start. If not, could be sidestand switch, starting circuit cutoff relay, diode assembly or clutch lever switch.

Use the stock washer. Move it from the right side to the left.

That’s normal. Just snip that little piece off.

You can put a dab of grease on the washer so it sticks. Or put your axle in slightly so the washer can hang off it.

I thought about that as well. Something like this: 500 lb. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart Also thought of a smaller gantry crane to just lift frame off and then back over the engine.

I had an extra hand and we used a flat jack to remove and then lifted it onto a solid dolly cart with wheels. Thought about using engine crane but not sure the valve cover could be used as-is with a lifting plate bracket like an automobile engine? Getting it on a engine stand so you can easily...