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I entirely respect your query for better MPG. However I see a huge contradiction in doing that with a carburated muscle cruiser. No economy aids, no aerodynamic aids, no weight savings, etc. Why? To me this is totally irrelevant for the target vehicle but I'd like to know your reasoning behind it.

Great build, looks interesting. I like the seat mount and the wheel/tire combo.

If you unhook the fuel line from the carbs and turn on the ignition, what happens?

How long will it idle? You not touching anything.

Si realmente desea respuestas precisas o especulaciones sobre sus problemas, sería mejor que use la aplicación Google Translate para traducirlo al inglés. Este es un sitio de habla inglesa. Haremos todo lo posible para ayudarte con tu problema.

Are you aware of the big Vmax community in Denmark? Welcome.

Did you align your drum and center dots? If yes, did you torque all the drum bolts? If yes, bleed your clutch.

You are the only one of us in this forum who really knows what the original radiator is good for. These opinions presented here are only that, opinions. If you think your current radiator is not worth the effort then ditch it and get a new one. We don't know your preferences but if it was me...

Will it idle or dies when you apply throttle?

Are there any metal plating companies in your area? Ask them if they could dip it to clean it. After that it will be spotless and you can paint it.

I cannot remember, did you check compression on all cylinders? Your idle sounds decent but acceleration is non-existent. Cam timing needs to be checked. Obviously your carb barrels open all the way when under load, do they? Did you check the exhaust for blockages?

The flywheel cover plug off while running the engine, bike stationary.

That dude that was supposed to know what he was doing to let you buy this can of worms... He owes you a lot of money or at least ten big favors. Hope you bought the bike really cheap.

A diode is like a one-way valve, it let's electricity flow one way, preventing it the other way. A regulator.

Mine is originally a UK full power bike. I don't know much about it's previous history besides it was fully loaded with a shitloads of high end aftermarket stuff. The guy I bought it from had no idea. Even though I can say that I am fairly knowledgeable, there still were few very nice internal...

My arrangement is different, every coil fires to the cylinder below it and plug wires are not crossed. I wasn't questioning Mr Max, only wondering if there's two different setups. I didn't see any hacks in my wiring loom when I built my bike. The crossing over part was news to me.

My plug wires are not crossed and the bike works flawlessly. I have OEM coils and mounted in original location. The wires are not long enough to cross over. Nothing modified there in mine. Two factory versions?

Where's your fuel switch now? In On-position or Res?

A heat deflector might be a good idea also. With a smaller battery some insulation inside the battery box too.

How much do those special batteries cost? I mean, if I can get a basic gel battery for 25 bucks that lasts reliably for at least 4 years then it is a hard one to beat. I can understand weight savings when racing but not racing the quarter mile. There's better solutions for straight line racing.