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I've never gotten 100 miles before the light. Gotten close a few times - 95 to 98 - but never 100.

In Georgia, titles are no longer issued on older vehicles. It doesn't matter if you have one or not. 1986 or older, they won't even issue you a title. If you give them one and ask to transfer it to your name, they won't. All you need is a bill of sale.

How old is the battery? Vmax's have notoriously weak charging systems. It doesn't take a whole lot for things to go pear shaped. If your battery is a few years old you need to have it load tested as it may be on its way out.

If folks would do something novel and actually read the thread, they'd see that it's already been done.

FYI: that's a whole lot of money for a bike that looks like it's in rough shape. Foot pegs are worn to the point of needing to be replaced, engine casing looks rough to the point it might have been dropped, tear in the seat, rust under the rear foot peg, doesn't have the manifold covers on it...

Same. That's ridiculous to the point of being insulting.

And that's the killer, right there. I can see lowering a bike if it's going to be a dedicated drag bike, but why on earth anybody would lower a street bike is beyond me. It absolutely guts your handling. Situations that were iffy at stock height become a death sentence.

Here's the thing: would you really want a new one? Even the guy at the shop said it's the cleanest tank he's ever seen. It's never spent a single night outdoors. It's never been wrecked. The seam just failed. How? Being a 2007, I wonder if they were getting a bit careless in their...

The SR500 weighed 365 pounds wringing wet. The Vmax tips the scales at 635 pounds, nearly DOUBLE the weight. If I were Dwayne Johnson, I MIGHT give it a go, but at 6' 1" 185, I wouldn't even dream about it, let alone actually try it.

$175.00 That's what it's going to cost. They'll strip the paint off it, pressure test it, re-weld the seam to seal any leaks they find and repaint it.

Sean Morley told me about that but I started reading up on it and it's pretty involved with multiple rounds of treatments and the like. That's a service the radiator shop offers and they guarantee it when they can't weld a tank or if it has a lot of rust/contaminants in it. I still have to get...

First off, I have no experience working with fiberglass although I do know a bit about it. Secondly, fiberglass doesn't adhere very well to steel and it doesn't hold up to gasoline very well either. It takes special types of resins to make that work, along with the know-how that goes with it...

Not sure I'd ever do something like that. If it is leaking along that seam like I think it is, I'd have them weld it. If they can't, I'll just buy a new one.

I don't have an air compressor. I think what I'm going to do is pull the tank and take it 'round to a radiator shop and see if they can test / fix it for me. If they can't fix it, hopefully they can at least verify that it's leaking and I'll buy another one. I hope they can weld it though. It...

Yep. Stopped leaking. It's gotta be the tank.

I went up to Harbor Freight and bought a gas can (both mine were full already) and a siphon pump and pumped 2 gallons out of it. I'm going to give it an hour and see if that stops the dripping. If it does, I guess I'll need a new gas tank.

That's what I'm afraid of. I've never heard of that happening before though.

So I once again have the bike running great, handling great and braking great but I can not for the life of me find out where this fuel leak is coming from. I'm at my wits end. I'm beginning to think it's the gas tank itself, that it somehow has a hole in it. For the record: it's is mirror...

I like it. I like it a lot. Very well done.

Sounds like broken or severely worn gear teeth. So long as you're on power the tension prohibits it from happening, but once you let off the throttle and the slack rolls the other way you get the clunk. Drive shafts do the same thing. I'll bet that the output gear at the engine has either...