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Pump the clutch 5 or 6 times before putting it in gear...see if that fixes the issue....

I repacked my UFO quadzillas with fiberglass, it has a nice deep throaty tone now, But still loud as hell! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am running Stage 7 165 jets 4th clip open vboost with a set of Quadzillas, the fuel light comes on at about 107 to 113 every time... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Got mine, thanks again...

I copied from paypal, and got a postmaster bounce from that address... Hummmm

G Your personal email is currently bouncing saying that your email address is not good... I sent you a PM with the info you requested...

[emoji106]Can't wait to receive them, top quality products "G"

I think what he is referring to is, it is a pain in the ass to get each bracket loose just to get access to the spark plug...

Payment sent...

This is getting better then the OIL thread! [emoji481]

Probably a good Idea, I will just do a who new shot gun process and replaced the needles and o-rings at that time to be sure its all clean...

I just did the shot gun last week, that's when I found the corroded AF springs.. Just received new ones in the mail.. I was hoping not to have to tear it all back down to replace them...

I have had them out before, question is do i need to drain the bowls and remove the diaphragm prior to blowing air down the PAJ?

Thanks Rusty...

They are not stuck, but when you unscrew them all the way out i need all the pieces to come out, can i blow air to pop them into my hand with out removing the diaphragm covers? And draining the bowls?

I am getting ready to replace my corrosion infested AF needles, do i need to drain the bowls first? If the needles don't come out I know I can blow some air down the PAJ to set them free, but can this be done "without" disassembly of the diaphragm covers and removing the slides first?

May need to check your vboost that it is open 100% of its travel, it may need adjustment.. I think my next step would be to check the slides again on that side... A sticky slide in a carb will do exactly as your describing as well as the carbs not being seated all the way, a small air leak...

I don't think so, your 170 main is way to big to require it NOT to be open.. give it a try....DynoJet states the same (open vboost) with their stage 7 kit, UFO also states the same (open the vboost) the only difference with your set up from mine is your 170 main and 3rd clip, mine is a 165 on...

Try unplugging the vboost in the open position during the servo cycle... My bike does the same thing between 5 and 7 thousand rpm.. I now run open vboost 100% of the time with no issues! With the setup you have stated, I believe you need the VBOOST open 100% of the time...

I would guess the vboost is still intact and functional? Do you hear the servo cycle when the key is initially turned on?