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Fixed! Sorry FireMedic…

Hello all, Life has gotten in the way along with waiting for parts. Went to move the bike and the clutch lever had no pressure. Found out the original slave had went bad. Waited for a new one and replaced it. I replaced the rear plug wires, boots and cleaned all grounding points .The bike...

Coils are good. Not sure on the wires and boots. I found an older forum in reference to plugs and wires and found that you can order an NGK SB05F and get 7mm copper core wire at auto parts store. When the boots arrive Friday, I’m gonna build me a set and put it on the bike to see if that fixes...

Carbs are spotless and rear coils are not split and ohm out at 3.3. Ever heard of weak spark but good coil readings? Gonna get a compression tester and test when I return Sunday night. The engine has always fired right up with a little choke and ran “smooth” otherwise with random occasional...

Don’t judge me I reverted to my “bush mechanic” method and used a screw driver inside the boot then held close to block. You can definitely hear and see spark. The bike ran as it always has with #1 and #3 boots pulled off. Explains why a/f screw wouldn’t adjust on #1 #3 Yes I’m aware of the...

I feel like an idiot but after I ran the bike for a minute and did a plug chop like MM suggested. I started with the easiest plug in the rear left and pulled it to find NOTHING. It had no deposit. The color was not biscuit, not foul, not wet, not black or sooty. So I reinstalled the plug and...

Carbs are clean and back together with oem Yamaha gaskets. Synced and still can’t adjust rear a/f screws. pops occasionally and runs as before. Anybody want to buy a 95 max?……

So I started on #3 and #4 tonight. Everything looks clean and nothing out of place. However when taking jet blocks off the rubber gasket looks new, but flimsy and not well made. It looks correct but is slightly larger and does not sit flat on the carb body. One can assume that it might be...

I’m just going to have to pull the carbs apart myself further than the shotgun method suggested. I’m irritated that I paid $550 to have them “cleaned and rebuilt”. I’m mechanically inclined just not on quad CV setups. I was hoping it was something simple…

What stumps me the most is what other system is involved that would cause both rear a/f screws to still not adjust after thorough cleaning? Are #1 and #3 connected somehow? PAJ1, PAJ2, main jet air bleed, and carb mixture screw passages are spotless. I forgot to add the bike runs as...

Thanks MaxMidnight! I do not get any popping on decel. I thought i heard it quietly and briefly yesterday through a WOT pull in the midrange. Subtle is a better word to use. It seams to do it at the end of a throttle blip and idling. I have wasted two cans of brake clean looking for any air...

Hello everyone. I have been chasing a random popping condition on my max for a while now. I can say for certain that: Has clean 87 octane and clean filter Good fuel pump Good coils/spark/plugs Carbs have been professionally gone through and sonic cleaned Gone Down to 150 mains. Everything else...

Welp. I was LIED to. The bike does not have any jetting or aftermarket needles. All stock. Explains why I can’t get it to stop popping and running like poo down low….

Don’t quote me but with a larger exhaust it’s letting out air to quickly from the engine and would cause a rich condition. I’ve read that you actually go down on main jets then vacuum sync and tune accordingly. Im sure fire-medic will chime in. I dont know if mine is jetted or not. I’m at work...

Thanks for the advice. I was told the bike was jetted but never verified it. I got a digi sync and synced the carbs then attempted to adjust a/f per known forum members post. I still have occasional popping. The exhaust is a slip on cobra and I’m thinking the jets are stock causing a rich...

disregard.... Found one on "fleabay"

Looking for a Gen 1 Muffler system for my max. Located in Texas. I have the cobra slip-ons currently and want to go back stock. TIA!

Thanks Fire-Medic! This helped tremendously. After doing some digging I found that I put the RR boot clamp on backwards and it was causing the butterfly valve mechanism to catch on the clamp when attempting to return to closed position. She’s all back together now. I’m waiting on some vac gauges...

After I cooled off from this lovely Texas heat, I walked back out to garage and looked again. All the butterfly’s are barely open…..Manually pressed them full close and started the bike. Ran well and didn’t “pop”. Will be adjusting in the A.M.

The troubles continue….clutch works flawlessly now. Replaced with all new Barnett pressure plate, friction plates, and steelies. Thanks for all the advice guys! Thread 'Revving to the moon….HELP' Revving to the moon….HELP