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This just happened on mine yesterday. Took it apart & found that one of the "E" clips went missing on the pivet bar. I'll bring a clip home tonight & fix it.

I was thinking of selling mine for a boat after a near-miss. Glad I changed my mind as well. It happens...

Kyle, count me in please !

Painted the driver's side of my motor today. Taping took a lot longer than I thought, so I never even started the other side yet. It came out great though. I'll be showing it off at Kyle's Tech Day this weekend.:eusa_dance:

Or maybe polish the base of the bleeder with some fine emory cloth ? I never had an issue with the bleeder, but it did sit on a shelf in a box for 2 years.

Yea, I've used those discs before, they work pretty well. Hey Sean, ever try a Roloc disc ? I buy 'em in 25 packs from Partshouse. They work great. I heard you have to be careful with them when cleaning aluminum because than can be pretty aggresive, but I've never had any issues. I do 1 or 2...

FWIW - I use just a simple gasket scraper or a one-sided razor blade to remove old gaskets. As far as sealer, I like Permatex #2. I think factory sealers are no better or no worse...

Did you get a "US" version of the VMAX or the Japanese version ? I heard the Japanese bikes don't have v-boost. Either way, congrads !

+1 to Ingersol ! I shoot an IR 231 - best bang for the buck out there.:punk:

Anybody having any issues with AGV helmets ? I bought a Stinger model for my wife a few years ago & it was fine until this past week. As I handed it to her I noticed a piece of foam, so I blew it out. Then another. Then another. Then I pulled the top liner out, & the foam is just rotting from...

IMHO the diff between .031" & .035" is a non-issue. Theoretically, the wider the gap, the more output required from the coil. But .004" would be pretty hard to tell a difference. My '98 F150 calls for a gap of .056" on a platinum spark plug, & I tell you that truck runs horrible with that setup...

Try a brass hammer - just don't hit the bolt holes. Or try a gasket scraper to split the cover away with a light smack of a hammer. Old gaskets get like super-glue sometimes...:bang head:

If I'm not totally broke after my Daughter's wedding in 2 weeks,:eusa_dance: I may buy that exhaust from you...

SWEET !!! Put a Big-Bore Morley 1300 in that bad boy & you're ready to rock & roll. Bike looks VERY clean. I wrench for a living & I'm all about rebuilding bikes, but some things just aren't worth doing yourself. If you really bought it as cheap as you say, I would buy a plug&play...

I gap most everything at .035" , except mowers & such I gap .020". The Yamaha service manual calls for .031" to .035".

+1 - Kyle is a straight-up Man & a pro bike mechanic as well - nuff said !!!:punk:

Here's a long shot, but I had this also. I had a NEW set of NGK spark plugs & one of them would start to misfire at idle when hot. Threw another set of plugs at it & now it will idle smooth all day long. Only happened at full operating temp. I would also check the plug wires where they plug into...

Sorry Dude - couldn't resist. :biglaugh:

My bike started cutting out about a year ago. Out of nowhere it would pop & misfire & the tach would drop off while it happened, so I knew it was electrical. I checked my ignition switch & found the wiring connector to be green with corrosion. I cleaned it up & packed the connector with...

Be sure to lube the carb chains while you have them off - hard to reach them with the air box in place. I use CorrosionX. :biglaugh: