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Got it, the stickers are nice to :clapping: Thanks again!

Ya, got one coming from 88vmx12

Ya, I read your post about this and was very happy that it was so simple.

Ughh, or a new connector.

Looks like I'll be soldering.

It was the connector, no continuity between the wires.

Think I found it, disconnected the ignition connector everything is still on. checked continuity on the loom side ignition connector between the red/brown, and there is continuity. When replacing the connector can I remove the broken connector leaving the spades on the wires and just slip...

Miles, I found your post in this thread: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=24414&highlight=turn that explains how to check the ign switch. Thanks again.

Thanks Miles, IS there a procedure to check the ignition switch in the manual? If not I'll look around here to find one. Won't be able to get into it till I get the bike home.

Just replaced the right side controls, starter switch kil switch..test rode just fine. Rode into work did quite a bit of idling bike is normal hot, went to turn it off with the key...notta. Kill switch kills it. Head light stays on no matter where the ignition key is. Made it into work...

Thanks Buster, it's in, rode into work tonight, felt only warm/hot to the touch vs burn your finger hot of the stock R/R.

The last 3 R/R's fried with a hard short, popped my main 30a fuse.

Well, fried my 3rd, or is it 4th R/R. Ricks Motorsports discounted me a Mosfet type that I am mounting under the pillion. Mounting thread here: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?p=213537#post213537

I'm mounting a Mosfet type R/R under the pillion and am looking for how other guys have done this, mainly will the R/R be ok under the pillion, as far as heat? The wiring looks pretty straight forward, though any tips there would be appreciated. See my R/R problems here...

The battery was a new odyssey last April. That was when my 1st R/R burned up. The battery holds a charge very well.

A quick question about stators, can the stator be good and the rotor cause the problem to the R/R? The stator always tested good, about 50v per leg and correct resistance. I decided to replace my stator last month because the bike was still eating R/R's, NaughtyG also had a similar problem...

The first 2 had independent grounds that I ran directly to the battery. The current grounds through the body of the R/R, I have a wire between the R/R and frame running to the battery.

If I can convince myself to spend the $ I will try the R1 style.

I have burned up 2 new model R/R's, and the current is an aftermarket oem style. I need to figure out why the R/R's are dying.

All connections are soldered. Crimp fix also done. All these were done last year when this started.