Sooooo... I rode to work and home yesterday. No slipping at all.
Thank you so for continuing to push me on the hydraulics side of the equation. I'm my arrogance I discounted the idea that there was something wrong with the master cylinder because I had just rebuilt it. Thinking back, the...
Rain today prevented me from the trial run. Instead, I took the clutch master cylinder off my other Vmax, the yellow one... Never had an issue with it so I know it's good. It feels competitive different, so I think you guys are right... The master cylinder was f'ed up. I should know for sure...
I just read deeper into the archives...
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-return-hole.53455/
I would post a link to two other similar threads, but every f*****ng time I go to copy the link, this post gets deleted. Grrrr!!!
Seems like there most likely cause is a blockage in the...
I rebuilt the master cylinder. I filled the system using the reverse flush method. Then I replaced the slave cylinder with a brand new unit. But I'll do the reverse bleed method again because...
I did the double d mod. It definitely helped, but it still started slipping. This is the extra stuff...
Well, I replaced the clutch. Same problem. When I first get on the bike the clutch seems to grab decent. But once it heats up, clutch go bye-bye. After 5 minutes on the road the clutch slips with 25% throttle applied. And it continues to 'grab' only at the last few mm's of lever travel.
My...
New slave cylinder is in.
Still slips under hard acceleration.
It is better, but still slips. I'm wondering if the previous owner put oil in her with "friction modifiers"... I'm tempted to replace the oil again, but it won't cure it immediately so I'm just going to replace the clutch friction...
Thanks, guys. I've rebuilt slave cylinders before, it just confuses me that the hydraulic system is the issue. Piecing together the thoughts y'all posted, for it to be a hydraulic issue it would mean the plunger in the slave cylinder is in the 'pressed' position, but unable to 'relax'.
For that...
EXPERT HELP REQUESTED!
She's all back together, but I have a problem with the clutch. Here is what I am experiencing:
1. Start bike
2. Pull in clutch
3. Put into 1'st gear
-For the next step I want to explain that I am calling "0% engaged" the fully released point when your hand is not even on...
The carbs I just rebuilt had the entire bore for the air mix screw smothered in Silicone. I could imagine why the PO would do discuss a thing. Then I learned he didn't have the washers or o rings on the screws... Must have leaked and the obvious solution was silicone?
What FM said.
I bought this set for $17 off Amazon.
"Neiko 10076A 3/8-Inch Drive Extra Long Allen Hex Bit Socket Set, Metric, 3 mm - 10 mm | S2 and Cr-V Steel, 7-Piece Set"
Those and a cordless Bosch impact wrench and those bolts are easy-peasy!
And after putting the carbs back on and finally putting a bit of new gas in her, she fired right up!!!
The pull side throttle cable like a bit frayed so I replaced those with new parts as well.
That's a minty bike. If you were in the Massachusetts area I would snap that up for the full $2k in a heart beat. Really, if I saw it on Facebook marketplace I've been know to offer $100 over asking to make sure I get it and the seller gets the enjoyment of telling the people that offer them...
I've never used S100 cleaner, but the S100 Engine Brightener works really well. It leaves a coating of glossy oil on your engine... And smells fantastic! I would suggest giving it a try. I think it's what you are looking for.... Similar to WD40 but stays much longer. It's expensive though, $18 a...
@ male.ding - It's really hard to tell if your bike is corroded or just dusty. If it is just dust, a quick spray with a degreaser, hose down, and then blow off with a leaf blower would probably get it sold lickety-split for you. Just a thought.