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Yes sir that was the problem, actually Fire-Medic stated about going back thru and checking everything, I did and found my problem. 4 loose clamps. I was racking my brain out. JEEZ.

Quick update. I put carbs back on, tightened all clamps and the bike runs and idles perfectly.

Yes sir Idles good when hot, well I discovered the rubber joints between carbs and intake manifold the bottom clamps I didn't tighten. I still pulled the carbs debating whether or not to replace pilot/idle jets.

It was, diaphragm in cylinder 3 carb was not seated correctly. Spark plugs looked original. The bike as a whole was in poor condition.

I will try it. I think I posted on here last year about my buddy riding my triumph trident 660 and he blew right past me, anyway raced him yesterday again, I just watched his headlight fade away, but anyway the bike has come along way from the clunker I bought last year.

I used the search function trying to find out anything on my predicament but all I found was posts with opposite, there bikes would heat up and idle drop. I was thinking maybe my problem was a cracked hose and when it heated up and softened the crack would close but it has all new hoses. Has to...

Yeah, think I'm going to pull them carbs and go thru them again. I was a certified Pennsylvania inspection tech and emissions inspector. Most cars are fuel injected so it's been a long time since I worked on carbs.

Did it 4 times over past week and as a matter of fact I did it yesterday, all good. Bike has 14900 miles

I have a 1988 Vmax. The first start of the day I usually put choke about half way and she fires right up. When the gauge shows temperature at the first black line on the temp gauge which is plenty warm. The choke is completely off, the bike can not maintain idle and stalls, I know the bike...

Actually 2 of the 3 screw holes were heli-coiled but it was half ass job just terrible. even the screw holes holding the wire retainer were butchered. I forgot all about crimp fix. but i'm getting 14.44 volts at battery at 2-3000 rpm. Should I still do it? **** I'll go and take a look right now.

Brand new caps and wires Captain, new fuel tank, new pump, all intake gaskets and o-rings, new spark plugs, ignitech. New swingarm bearings thanks to your video. New coolant hoses and o-rings. New stator and regulator, had to get new generator case previous owner strip out threads for stator...

Wow, very informative. Ty.

I found it using search function, With ignitech I do need Resistor COP's. Says it does better with hot starts too which I have been having a problem with too.

So if I go COP I need the resistor COP's even with ignitech? Oh I did check for air leaks also. I am familiar with Kyle watched a few of his vids. It just seems like misses come and go.

Well I bought the ignitech from morley muscle, carbs are rebuilt and it don't seem to idle right. I did synchronize carbs. I get it running fine then the next time I start it the idle needs adjusted again. so what if it rains and water gets on them coils with the crack?

Hello, Been awhile since I posted. I can usaully find everything I need thru the search. Finally got my baby back together 88 vmax and running. Was fixing it up to sell but I am defiantly in love will this lady and she can be mean. All 4 of my coils are cracked and they are expensive for all 4...

Take pictures next time you work on your bike.

Get rid of that windshield.

Generator cover holds the plate in place, I see now.

Yes pictures, Please. Thank you, I know the 3 screws, just want to clarify everything before I start attaching stator and pick up coils. who ever had the bike before me had the plate#9 on one of the gears there in the case. What size allen heads you order?