bottom outer bearing race

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oscar_sande

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So how does one remove one of these?!?!? Its stuck to the head-tube real tight :(
 
weld a bead and use a long punch. Not an option for many people though.
 
+1 for welding.

Im always puting some wet clotch around the neck and then weld about 2 inches and it just slips out.

Some will say that ya can fry some paint on the frame by that but id say if you will be cereful its all gonna be fine.
 
I have found the easiest way ( I dont have a welder) is to make two cuts into the race close together, doesnt have to be all the way through, and then wack the hell out of it with a hammer and chisel. The piece between the cuts will break and fall out and then you can pry/pull the rest out fairly easily. Dont worry too much if by accident you cut a little into the head, the metal there is fairly thick and shouldn't cause future problems.
 
I used a dremel to cut into the race and also found I needed to make a second cut before I could hammer/chisel it out.

I like Danny's idea best - grind one or two small recesses above the race so that you can hammer it out from above - just like the top one.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions :) So I tired the drift thing...problem is I didn't have one, I actually didn't know what one was! But I found out and so I made one from an old screw driver that I had...here is what it looks like

picture.php


It didn't work though, I had to keep reshaping the edge with the angle grinder because the metal is too soft and blunts after one strike.

Anyway...going to try Danny's idea as it sounds good, I don't have welding stuff so the bead idea is out of the question. I don't understand why Yamaha designed the head tube this way :(
 
Oscar, I use 'drift' to describe a long punch. I guess the proper term is 'drift punch.'

This is one type http://cgi.ebay.com/Allen-25632-Lon...360?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ced0d3588

Start your groove 3/4" - 1" above the bottom race and grind deeper into the steering neck as you work down toward it. There is a shoulder milled in the neck above the race that you have to go through also.....I have no idea why Yamaha uses that design either. :confused2:
 
So I finally got my *** in gear and got my self a Dremel. It really is one of those tools that makes you think how you've lived until now without one.

picture.php


Anyway...the head set race has now been killed
 
Oscar, I use 'drift' to describe a long punch. I guess the proper term is 'drift punch.'

This is one type http://cgi.ebay.com/Allen-25632-Lon...360?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ced0d3588

Start your groove 3/4" - 1" above the bottom race and grind deeper into the steering neck as you work down toward it. There is a shoulder milled in the neck above the race that you have to go through also.....I have no idea why Yamaha uses that design either. :confused2:


:clapping:
I wish I had read this before cutting into the race. I really marred up the inside of the neck...not so bad I guess, but definitely ain't pretty. This worked absolutely flawlessly and IMHO, if the Yamaha engineers weren't high that day, they would've more than likely designed in that groove. I think this is even easier than the welding workaround--especially if you don't already have the equipment :rofl_200:. All of the other threads make you think that if you don't weld then cutting into the race is the only other option. How does one get the "dannymax groove" bubbled up so that it is at the top of the search hits? ... steering stem bearing bottom outer race remove ...
 
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I ground a recess above it with a Dremel wheel and punched it out with a drift.


:punk:This is by far the best approach. Took me all of 10 minutes and would've saved me all of the hours I wasted yesterday afternoon.
 
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