Question for any Welders out there..

Dezeez · Oct 4, 2008

I installed some Harley Grips and Foot pegs and I'd like to put the matching Shift Peg on the bike. I've attached some pictures to show the layout.

If I cut the stock shifter off the lever and drill a hole, stick the new shifter's bolt in the hole, cut it flush and weld the end towards the motor, do you think that will be a strong enough way of attaching the new shifter?

I'm afraid that it won't be enough of a weld to hold with all of the up and down stress of shifting.

naughtyG · Oct 4, 2008

Harley bits on a Max?

Sacrilege!!!

hahaha

Buster Hymen · Oct 4, 2008

Isn't the stock shift lever cast metal? I'm not positive, but I don't think you can weld cast.

Earlzach · Oct 4, 2008

Buster Hymen said:
Isn't the stock shift lever cast metal? I'm not positive, but I don't think you can weld cast.

I was going to say the same thing.
But if your hut hum Harley piece is threaded then just drill and tap you shift arm and thread in the Hut hum Harley piece.
I will admit it looks way better.:eusa_dance:

one2dmax · Oct 5, 2008

We have welded cast stuff before and seen the shifters welded up (though we haven't done one yet). I'm sure we could weld it up or you can find a good tig welded in your area that can handle the job.

Sean

Dezeez · Oct 5, 2008

one2dmax said:
We have welded cast stuff before and seen the shifters welded up (though we haven't done one yet). I'm sure we could weld it up or you can find a good tig welded in your area that can handle the job.

Sean

I might take you up on that Sean. I was thinking about a jet kit for a winter project anyway. I'll ask around here and if I don't find anybody to do it, I'll send a PM.

I thought about the drill and tap route but I'm afraid there's not enough metal there to allow for many threads. The bolt has to be shortened so it doesn't hit the engine.

mabdcmb@yahoo.com · Oct 6, 2008

I thought about the drill and tap route but I'm afraid there's not enough metal there to allow for many threads. The bolt has to be shortened so it doesn't hit the engine.[/quote]

I would think it would still be long enough to be cut flush with the back of the shifter (the side that faces the engine). Thats all the threads you would get in it without cutting it so I don't see a difference. I would go the drill and tap method and then put some anaerobic thread locker or epoxy on the threads and thread 'er in.

Dezeez · Oct 6, 2008

[email protected] said:
I thought about the drill and tap route but I'm afraid there's not enough metal there to allow for many threads. The bolt has to be shortened so it doesn't hit the engine.

I would think it would still be long enough to be cut flush with the back of the shifter (the side that faces the engine). Thats all the threads you would get in it without cutting it so I don't see a difference. I would go the drill and tap method and then put some anaerobic thread locker or epoxy on the threads and thread 'er in.[/quote]

I could try that first and if it doesn't hold, drill it out and try the weld method. I think I'll try to find a used lever so if it goes horribly wrong, I'm covered.

Lew L · Oct 7, 2008

That looks like a 1/4" stud in the hardly part????? If so, I think it is tooooo small and wont hold up well. I would drill and tap the hardly part for a 5/16 fine thread and then cut off the stock shifter part--- drill a 5/16 hole and bolt or even use a flat head grade 5 hex head to hold the hardly shifter part on. No welding and very strong.
Lew
Ps: You usually only need threads roughly equal to the diameter of the bolt for a good hold. ei. a 3/8 bolt deeds 3/8 of a inch of threads. But this is for grade 1--3 bolts Grade 5 and higher need more.

jedi- · Oct 7, 2008

Lew L said:
That looks like a 1/4" stud in the hardly part????? If so, I think it is tooooo small and wont hold up well. I would drill and tap the hardly part for a 5/16 fine thread and then cut off the stock shifter part--- drill a 5/16 hole and bolt or even use a flat head grade 5 hex head to hold the hardly shifter part on. No welding and very strong.
Lew
Ps: You usually only need threads roughly equal to the diameter of the bolt for a good hold. ei. a 3/8 bolt deeds 3/8 of a inch of threads. But this is for grade 1--3 bolts Grade 5 and higher need more.

I agree, tap it 5/16/ 8mm and maybe use a HT button head if clearance is an issue.

lankeeyankee · Oct 7, 2008

Buster Hymen said:
Isn't the stock shift lever cast metal? I'm not positive, but I don't think you can weld cast.

A professinal welder can weld cast. I had the front part of the engine block welded, when I broke the oil filter mount off....
I wouldnt take it to your local garage and have Tommy Tool try to weld it with his arc welder set on 80AMPS though..
If you cant find a professinal welder I would start asking around here. If you have trouble I can send you to someone that can weld that up to where a gorilla will be able to jump up and down on it with no problems, well maybe a baby gorilla..

Dezeez · Oct 7, 2008

Lew L said:
That looks like a 1/4" stud in the hardly part????? If so, I think it is tooooo small and wont hold up well. I would drill and tap the hardly part for a 5/16 fine thread and then cut off the stock shifter part--- drill a 5/16 hole and bolt or even use a flat head grade 5 hex head to hold the hardly shifter part on. No welding and very strong.
Lew
Ps: You usually only need threads roughly equal to the diameter of the bolt for a good hold. ei. a 3/8 bolt deeds 3/8 of a inch of threads. But this is for grade 1--3 bolts Grade 5 and higher need more.

That's a good point about tapping the shift lever itself and coming in the other way. It will have to be a very small bolt head to not hit the engine cover. I'm not sure about much of a bigger bolt size, either. There's very little "width" to the stock lever bar where the hole would be drilled. Something to think about though. thanks.

mabdcmb@yahoo.com · Oct 9, 2008

Why step it up to a 5/16" bolt? If he can shear a 1/4" bolt with his big toe then maybe he should consider it, if not, I think it would be overkill. Either that or he would have to downshift with his heel like he's putting out a fire. Why not try drill and tap. In the photo it looks like it has fine thread already. If something happens to the threads he can either go up a size or put in a helicoil. I had to helicoil my sissy bar before putting it on cause the fit was so bad if I were to torque down the bolts holding the top part onto the side struts it was ready to strip. They worked really well.

joker69 · Feb 2, 2010

Yes, you can weld cast either with a Brazing rod or a stick nickel rod. Some cast can be wire welded but be careful. Heat the part up so it's warm, then weld it. Make sure you let it cool slowly otherwise it will crack.

GREEN light BLITZ · Feb 3, 2010

I have EXACTLY the same peg youre trying to put on your shifter,on my brake side.
THE EXACT SAME ONE.I can show pics to prove it...

You wont even need to weld it, if you cut off the old shifter peg and drill a hole through it you can just bolt it in place.Maker it tight and it will easily hold the stress of your foot.Mine is on the brake side and it has not givin me ANY trouble.

1967vmax · Feb 3, 2010

Shame on you for subjecting your max with F.A.G Harley Parts no wonder she leaves you STRANDED!!!!!! LOL JIM

88vmx12 · Feb 3, 2010

I would personally just drill and tap. What is wrong with cutting the original one off under the rubber cover. Dressing it up a bit and drilling and tapping it out. If you leave enough of the original one your bolt will not touch the engine. Or just make sure that you have left enough for the threads and cut the excess bolt off.. Just an Idea

Scooter

ants-in-u-pants · Apr 11, 2010

im a welder by trade and also ride a max
the ally should weld ok
but to be honest i would leave it alone
i would always be waiting for it to drop off and leave me stranded.

Question for any Welders out there..

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