HOW TO: adjust your valves clearances pt3

OK, so you've got all your clearances to your liking, the shim kit's on its way to the next Vmaxxer (or back to Sean), and you wanna ride! Let's put it all back together..

First I cleaned up my valve covers as best I could:


I couldn't find the damn black RTV, and was too lazy to go get some, so I just used the red stuff (it's for high temp anyway). Go ahead, shoot me, I know it looks *****! The idea is you need something to hold your valve cover gaskets in place, or installation will not be a happy thing:


I didn't go all the way round - just dabs. The gasket is what will seal the oil in, this is just to 'glue' the gasket in place. There it is now:


Of course you've made sure your gasket was in good shape, or you've replaced it. Make also sure it's on the right way - there are little arrows and things to show you the way. Then, in order for in to set nicely in there, I left it for a good 15-20mns with my service manual as a weight on top. Nice size and weight, thank you Mr Yamaha:


Repeat the above for the second valve cover!

Then I decided to remove the rear coolant hose too - makes reassembly easier, should have taken it off as soon as I drained the coolant. Squeeze the clip..


..and pry the hose off:


Nice, so much easier now:


Slide the cover carefully back on, taking care of not disturbing the gasket, and making absolutely sure it's perfectly in place at the end. That arrowed rubber tab must seat good:


In fact all of them must do, and everywhere in between, or you'll get oil leaks and won't be happy, at all:


Then let's replace the valve cover screws, and tighten them to the right torque:


Make sure to do both sides, and I think it's always best to use a criss-cross pattern when torquing.

Repeat with the front valve cover.

Then let's grab our Vboost servo screws:


And let's get that thing back in place. Make sure its cable's routed properly, and all electrical connections are in place. The two screws are arrowed looking for the right of the bike...


..and here's another view for comfort. Circled is the beast, top screw is arrowed. Again, only use the right size #2 Philips:


Now we can put the thermostat assembly back in place and reattach the right panel with the 3 arrowed screws:


Let's also reattach the cylinders heads' coolant hoses:


If you run COPs like me, you'll want to spin the hose clips oce in place..


..so that the smaller bit of clip faces the COP. Otherwise the COP can't sit straight:


I'd removed, checked, cleaned and gapped my spark plugs, so here they go back in and torqued accordingly:


Let's remember to put that washer back over the crank nut hole, making sure it sits flat..


..and then re-install the stator cover:


Don't forget the timing mark hole plug - this time I'm using the coin as I don't wanna overtighten it like it was!


Pop the rear heat shield back in place and push it down snuggly:


Then reconnect your rear spark plug leads, or in my case, COPs:


There's one of the rear all connected and in place, with the rubber securing it to the heat shield:


Time to refit the front heat shield rubber. Juast slide it in making sure all wiring is above it.


Here's a better picture showing all for tabs holding it at the front, just behind the radiator. Once in place, tap the tabs back in with a rubber mallet if you bent them out for removal:


On the right hand side, reattach the two rubber tabs (arrowed)...


..and the rubber tie:


Time to pull the radiator back in place, and reattach and secure its main hose:


We can now secure the radiator in place, with its two bolts (arrowed) on the left...


..and on the right:


Refit the coolant drain plug..


..and torque it!


Refill the coolant system...


..install and tighten the pressure cap...


...and remember to turn the coolant drain valve back to OFF:


On the left side of the bike, make sure your HT lead (or COP wiring harness here) is routed through the heat shield, as well as the cooling fan wiring (blue arrow). If you disconnected the cooling fan, reconnect it now:


Install, reconnect and secure both front HT leads or COPs:


Reattach the left-hand relays panel with its 3 screws..


..and make sure to reattach all four rubber tabs from the heat shield:


Put all the relays back in place and route all wiring adequately..


..reinstall both radiator covers:


Reinstall your airbox making sure its rubbers are seated properly on the carbs and tightened. Also make sure the float chambers' vent hoses aren't pinched and secure.


Refit and reconnect the puke tank:


That's it! Now just the body panels, and you're off!

Easy, no? unk::clapping::eusa_dance:

If the valves were off much at all then I would suggest to do a carb sync when you are done.

Sean

Thanks for the great triple tutorial on how to do the adjustments, NaughtyG! Guys like you that take the time to photograph and describe how something should be done is what makes this site great!

awesome awesome awesome! were u actually able to get a torque wrench in there to do the valve covers?

great write up dude thanks.

gamorg02 said:

awesome awesome awesome! were u actually able to get a torque wrench in there to do the valve covers?

Click to expand...

I have small allen bits that came with my impact wrench, and they fit into an 8mm socket.
Unfortunately my smallest torque wrench doesn't go down to the small value needed (need to get an in.lb one), so in the end, I just tightened them by hand. :biglaugh:

gotcha. would your torque wrench fit if the numbers were right?

Maybe just. It gets tall with all the bits and adaptors!

Captain Kyle has a small in.lb t-wrench, and that one would most definitely fit.