How to replace carb slide diaphragm

Soak slides fully submerged in WD 40 overnight to loosen glue. Then instead of using a screwdriver to knock slide loose from diaphragm holder, I use a deep well 3/8 drive socket with a 6 inch extension to drive the slide loose from diaphragm holder instead of a screwdriver which is where most people's failure comes into play. When using a deep well socket inserted into slide, you get even forces 360 degrees around the slide instead of just a sharp screwdriver which will inevitably break the brittle slide component. I don't remove needle from slide because using a deep well socket fits over the screw (needle holder assy) inside the slide. I also use a metal pipe, which happened to be the top rail of a chain link fence I took down and cut off about 6 inches of pipe that I insert slide into while I drive slide away from diaphragm holder. The bottom of pipe is stuffed with a single paper towel to soften the fall when the slide drops from diaphragm holder. I use a very small hammer to tap slide loose from holder, usually with a couple of small taps you can see a gap between slide and washers and the rest can be done by hand to finish disassemble. After disassembly I take the aluminum holder to the bench wheel and clean glue residue with wire brush side of grinder, you can also use a piece of fine sand paper to clean glue reside off. After you get holder clean the use a fine piece of sand paper to clean residue from inside the slide, ideally you want to be able to push holder into slide with very little resistance. Reassemble slide and new diaphragm making sure washers are all facing the right direction. I tack glue new diaphragm to washer that has grove in it to keep the diaphragm centered during reassembly. Use oil or petroleum resistant glue of your choice to reassemble (DO NOT USE GORILLA GLUE) . I use Devcon metal filler glue which dries in 45 seconds so I have to work fast to have everything in place fast. After applying glue (to aluminum holder only) I insert the holder into slide by hand, making sure it is going in square and not the least bit crooked. I then place slide on a solid flat wooden surface and with the same deep well socket I used on disassembly I place it on the bottom side of the slide and give it a couple of small taps to tighten up washers around newly installed diaphragm. I then use a small screw driver to clean away any glue residue that may have oozed out.

great write up man, ya devcon great stuff. can get the a-b mix stuff, never tried the single tube stuff

Great Write Up and Pictures...:clapping::clapping::clapping::clapping::clapping:

Thank You.......

Nice job Joe!! :thumbs up:

Actually done it at your request Specs. I wrote it for Steve-ooo and sent it to him, then had the CPU crash and thought the info was gone. But I found it on another CPU and posted it for you. Hopefully someone will have success with the method I used, and maybe someone can add something to it to make it even better.

Carburetor slide boot replacement,
I can do all 4 WITH NO DAMAGED PARTS in
30 min.
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Do NOT use a hammer to separate slide from boot ! (110.00-150.00 ea.)
slide WILL crack or break, you were warned.
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(READ AND UNDERSTAND FULLY BEFORE YOU TRY THIS)
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Do get a small pan from other that the (wife country) kitchen, add 2 ? inches of water and bring to a boil.
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Submerge boot side of carb slide into still boiling water for 60 sec.
DO NOT ALLOW PART TO CONACT THE PAN. PAN WILL MELT THE PLASTIC WASHERS HOLDING THE BOOT ON. (I DID NOT USE THE TONGS NEXT TO WIFES PAN TO HOLD THE PART IN BOILING WATER)
(factory uses epoxy, heat melts bond for a moment)
(It was 80 deg. When I did this. A cold carb slide may crack due to temp shock)
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You need gloves, (move fast epoxy will rebond)
Remove boiling hot carb slide, hold plastic slide in your gloved hand.
While holding sleeve with one hand, I stuck the plastic side of a screw driver down the throat of the plastic sleeve to tap out steel sleeve from the plastic slide.. (needle was not removed) IT COMES RIGHT OUT, if not repeat boiling water.
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Reinstall, VERY IMPORTANT
Clean ALL epoxy residue from inside of slide and steel sleeve insert.
ANY tiny amount that remains will cause a bulge AND CRACK YOUR PLASTIC SLEEVE, or
Prevent the slide from operating freely inside the carb.
Insert steel sleeve into plastic slide, it should slide in and back out
WITH NO RESISTANCE, If it doesn’t
Theres glue inside plastic slide. (Dremmal tool with a wire brush)
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I used super glue to bond new boot to plastic washer.
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I used a 2 part epoxy to rebond steel sleeve to plastic slide. (thin layer inside plastic slide, none on the steel insert)
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ALSO,
Rubber boot has a small nub protruding from its outer edge that fits into carb body.
Needle side of plastic slide has a small hole. ( It’s a weep hole that must be turned down)
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Hope this helps I learned this the hard way….several times

I tried boiling mine. Worked great on the first 3. 4th one broke.

We've had good success replacing diaphragms at BRC.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=37088

I stretch them off and on, never ripped one yet. Of course there's a little more to it. God Bless Joe Alorio. A great friend and forum supporter. He was a pioneer
in changing the diaphragms. RIP.
Steve-o

Hi,

Is there some some specific angle between the diaphragms overhang and that air hole in the slide? I quess that this one is not original and I don't have reference - proven stock OEM part.

Thanks for advice,

Rauno