What to look for when buying a vmax??

I figured I'd start this thread since it seems like a common question. Feel free to contribute any info you think is relevant.

So, you've decided to buy a Gen1 Vmax. I'm sure there are some questions you have before taking the plunge. Here are answers to the most common ones.

Q. What year is best?
A. There is no "best" year. There were changes over the years but all in all there is not one Vmax better than the other. The general consensus is to buy the newest you can afford.

Q. What changes were made over the years?
A. See this thread for a pretty comprehensive list: Changes Thanks to Dave for his work on creating it.

Most notable changes
'90- changed to electronic ignition=More reliable
'93-forks changed to a larger OD= Better handling
'93-front calipers and rotors changed=Better braking
'96-spin on oil filter instead of old cartridge style=Easier maintenance
'99-shift segment redesigned=More reliable

Q. Which year bike has the most HP?
A. They are all rated the same. It is a myth that the early models had more HP than late models.

Q. Any common problems to be aware of?
A. Here are a few of the common issues you want to look out for.

Second Gear. To check second gear you need to ride the bike, put it in second gear, and hammer on it a little. If it slips or acts like it's in neutral you have an expensive repair to deal with

Steering Stem Bearings. They may need replaced or re-greased, or only a simple adjustment. Headshake is a common symptom. Check out this video for some info on how to adjust them

Dirty Carbs. These bike don't like to be stored with fuel in the carbs if the fuel has not been treated with a stabilizer. The pilot jets tend to get plugged up. Luckily, the carbs are very easy to remove and clean. There is plenty of info in the Carb section to guide you through this.

Electrical Gremlins. Lets face it, the charging system on some of these bikes could use some work. Check out this thread for some help.

Other than that, use common sense. Just like any other bike, if its old, it needs checked out. Fluids (brake, clutch, engine oil, coolant, final drive, fork oil) may need replaced. Intake rubbers may get old, dry, hard, and crack. This bike has rubber boots between the airbox and carbs. Carbs to v-boost assembly, and intakes to v-boost assembly. Make sure they don't leak.

Q. How much should I be paying for a Vmax?
A. Check out this thread for some ideas on what guys have been paying.

Good topic. Good write up too, Mike!

Just curious.. My 86 has that second gear issue mentioned above. Once in a while while I shift up into second at high RPM's it either goes into neutral or feels like its in neutral. Is this my transmission going out and needing repairs/ replace? or is it a clutch issue?

Horrendous said:

Just curious.. My 86 has that second gear issue mentioned above. Once in a while while I shift up into second at high RPM's it either goes into neutral or feels like its in neutral. Is this my transmission going out and needing repairs/ replace? or is it a clutch issue?

Click to expand...

"It done gone an' left you bwah!" Start saving your $$$. If you attempt to take it to a dealership, after you get their price, you'll want to sell the bike. If you don't feel up to the task of researching the job and then trying it yourself, maybe you can post-up here for some help and find someone in-proximity to you to help or to do it at a reasonable price. Since the motor probably is going to have to come out of the frame and have the cases split, (it doesn't sound like a shift selector problem which wouldn't require cases split & engine removal) you might as well consider replacing things like the shift forks and shift drum while you are that far into the transmission. The more-experienced troubleshooters will inform you the usual cause is the 2nd gear mating dogs and the slots on the adjoining gear into which they 'land' are probably 'knackered,' as our British friends are wont to say.

Read-up on it in the search function before you decide to do anything.

Good luck.

Here's a recent post of mine on another thread which covers the same or similar topic:
Under the technical section, you can spend the next couple of weeks reading about any topic of interest for your ride by category, i.e., 'engine,' 'suspension,' 'brakes,' etc. If you do that you will be much-better able to answer your own questions about what to do & how to do it.

If I had $$ to play with, & a nearly-new bike, I would either get a new rear wheel and go to radial tires ASAP, or, if you aren't going to spend the $ for that, make sure your tires aren't as hard as rocks, they very well could be the originals, and by age alone, are in need of replacement, if you want to ride safely.

After that, I would do the previously-mentioned fluid maintenance, install HH rated brake pads if you aren't going to upgrade the brake calipers (there are a number of ways to go there, used parts sourced from wherever you can find them will reward you with better function, use the technical section 'brakes' category; FYI, you can keep your stock master cyl & just replace the calipers, it will work just fine w/the commonly-available caliper replacements, such as FZR/YZF/R1, Hyabusa, & others). Stainless steel lines for the front brakes at a minimum (some also replace the clutch & rear brake lines, not really necessary if there are no issues w/the stock rubber lines)will make a big difference in brake feel at the lever.

Progressive Suspensions rear shocks (series 412, 418, & 440, take your pick, by order of >$) and front fork kits are popular, as are Cartridge Emulators and other brands of mods for the internals of the front fork. I would stay-away from shorter-than stock rear shocks unless you are a midget. Your cornering clearance will suffer, same advice for the front, sportbike front end swaps are expensive and unless you spend for some very expensive custom triple trees or longer fork downtubes, will also cost you corneering clearance. I don't think you will see much benefit from a different front fork brace, you would be better-off putting your $$ towards a fork internals kit like the springs & Fork Emulators or similar.

The Kerker 4/1 is a good performance exhaust, as are Mark's Performance Products in either 4/1 or 4/2; UFO makes some obscenely-loud exhausts which also provide great performance, and there are others. All these require re-jetting and other mods to your induction (pilot jets, filters, elimination of VBoost via simple tubing to replace the butterflies) to operate optimally. Dynojet Stage 7, and Morley's Muscle kits are what most member seem to use, there are other on the market. I have both the Kerker 4/1 and the UFO Dragstar 4/1. The Kerker costs you the use of your centerstand frame mounts, they must be removed. The UFO does not require the frame cutting. If you like the H-D modified exhaust loudness, go for the UFO! No one will want to ride on your right side...and you can make drivers wince and roll-up their windows while sounding like a cammed Chevy V8 idling at stoplights.

I have not installed an HID lighting kit, but I am looking at installing a different headlight. ddmtuning.com offers a great kit for the stock bulb replacement if you want to go w/HID's. Better night vision is always a +! Their prices cannot be beat, and I think they still offer a lifetime warranty!

On the 'electrical' forum topic there are threads about modifying the wiring harness inexpensively to make the charging system work better, including a cost-effective replacement for your voltage rectifier, better batteries (Odyssey brand is popular, but $, or go to Morley's Muscle website about a cheap alteration to your battery holder allowing you to fit a much-bigger capacity Gold Wing battery), and other topics about alternatives to lighting, including turn signals and rear taillights. I have a Signal Dynamics rear license plate light frame, they have several different kinds including ones you can use as turn signals too. This I feel is a must for increasing your nighttime visibility especially in bad weather. I have them on both of my current bikes.

Honestly, I would leave the engine internals alone until you get used to the bike, especially after coming off a H-D! You have probably 50%+ more h.p. than the best-running stock H-D Big Twin. As they say, power is 'adequate!' If you want more, well, open your wallet! Use it stock for a season or two first. If not see the attachment.

Well, that's the best advice I can give, but I am only a rider and not a mechanic. I do much of my own wrenching, but I am not making a living from it, there are many here who are, and you can chat w/them to get more-detailed advice on proposed paths of $-spending.