Buying a used 1st gen V-Max - skinny short guy lol

Daffy · Dec 6, 2011

Hi guys, first post. I've been into the V-Max since around 1986-1987, always wanted one. Having recently sold my 1098s, I find myself bikeless and am thinking about the bikes I'd love to replace the Ducati with.

I went from Toronto to Portmouth, Maine, and back, and it hurt. V-Max would be more fun there

Not to mention the engine and my old boss (Dave Connery) was a drag racer, so it all kind of grew on me... I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind:

First, weight. The V-Max is about 647 pounds more than my Ducati LOL (OK more like twice the weight). It's a much lower seat height I think, does that make a big difference with how the weight feels when going very slow? I had an 86 FZ750, disliked how top heavy it was, but even thought it was heavy, I put 10K on it. I am 5 foot 8 inches and about 135 pounds, small guy. I can ride any bike once it gets going, but is such a heavy bike going to cause a small guy problems in parking lots, up hills backing up, etc.? I'm pretty experienced and did have a Shadow 750 (and a couple RZs and a CB360 lol), but none of these are as big as the V-Max. Again, just concerned with dead weight at zero to slow speeds.

Second, buying used. I've heard many times through the years that the engines are bulletprrof. Does that mean it's OK to buy what looks like a good condition copy from the 90s/2000s, for $4-6000? I see a lot of them are what I'd call high mileage, but does that matter if they really are bulletproof? I know it's an older bike, and I'm willing to spend money when required, and will customize it to suit me but generally speaking, what is the point (very generally), on an original motor, when things start to fall apart? I'm no mechanic, but can do anything (normal, not talking milling machine/lathe/torches here) outside the engine...so if the engine is at the point of total rebuild, it's gonna cost me. Not sure what I'm asking here except to ask if a bike hasn't been abused (something you need to take on faith of course, and visual inspection etc.), what's a good number of miles before you need to rip it apart and look at everything inside? I'm seeing VERY high KM's on Kijiji.

I don't want another sport bike, I want to be able to put a lot of clicks on it in a day and since there is so much nostalgia involved in my purchase (my youth) I'd really like to get a first gen V-Max. It's most likely my favourite bike, especially when it's loud

Any comments appreciated

Shawn

midmoraider · Dec 6, 2011

Shawn, welcome to the forum. I was in your shoes early last year. I was 14 when the Vmax came out in 85, my dad was always a Yamaha guy, so I swore that one day I would have one.

There are several guys on the forum that sell different seats. The stock seat sucks anyway. I got one from Sean Morley that was cut down and widened out, much more comfortable and closer to the ground. I am 6' with a 32" inseam. The reworked seat height is about 27" so no problems walking the bike around. You can see a pic of it in my album.

I don't have an opinion about the mileage issue, as this is my first Max.

Anyway, good luck with your purchase. Should be able to get a good deal this time of year.

SpecOps13 · Dec 6, 2011

I find that I can ride very slow. My front forks on both have of mine been built and lowered. You could get an aftermarket seat and sit even lower... Only problem I have with weight and lower front end is getting the 94 on the center stand. Stand on 89 has been removed...

Buy as new as you can afford unless you know what's been done to the bike. I have 1200 hours into my 89 and it'll match condition with most any bike out there. Before all those hours and lots of $ that wasn't the case... Mileage is a factor but it all depends on the care the bike was given... They will go over 100,00 if cared for well.

I would say shoot for 99 or newer. Most updates were Incorporated by then... Not that the older bikes are bad. I have 2. You just have a better chance of less initial problems...

Good Luck, Welcome to the forum. Hope you stay a long time...

Dave

spursmech · Dec 6, 2011

unk: Welcome Daffy, Your best bet would be to buy the bike you like with the most modifications already made to it as they are very costly and you won't get your money back when you sell. So I would for sure look for one with radial tires and new wheels, full exhaust system and jet kit, and the chrome or paint you want. You can buy a cut down seat if it fits you better, or find a bike with one. I like the early years but most people here don't, just my opinion. Miles don't really matter, mine has 55,000 and some here have over 100,000 with no problems. Check second gear when you buy and you'll be fine. Good Luck, Spurs

Junior6996 · Dec 6, 2011

Good luck and welcome I just bought my first one a month ago good advice to find one that's setup the way you want and I would stay away from motor mods not everyone is Sean Morley!

Daffy · Dec 6, 2011

Awesome, thanks guys. I'll check 2nd gear on all the bikes I check out. I feel confident to buy a good-looking/well-kept bike with 350000km or so now...newest possibly of course

I'm stoked now. It's approaching winter here in Canada so I'm going to take my time and make the most, looking at all the bikes for sale.

Some of the mods I'd like (chain drive, light 17" rims hopefully and of course USD forks) I'm definitely hoping I can find already done...esp. the chain drive. But I don't want something too custom, as I'd like to do that myself

As I learned the hard way from my last bike, every penny you put into it will get you maybe .2 pennies back if you sell it...ugh. But this time I'm hoping I am smart enough to keep it forever.

My old bike, scroll down if you wanna see a skinny guy lol: http://bellissimoto.com/ShawnsCustom1098.html

One question, again regarding weight, can I put a carbon wheel (Dymag hopefully, or BST if I must lol) on the back once I have a chain drive bike? I like to lose weight.

Shawn

RaWarrior · Dec 6, 2011

The motors do tend to be very reliable. A few people here have 100k+ miles on original engines. They're well built and hold up to being run hard. However, take the redline on the tach as gospel. They don't like to be over-revved and even a couple "whoops" moments with a missed shift or revving out a gear too much can toast a crank bearing.

As mentioned 2nd gear is the other issue. Typically this is caused by harsh/clutchless shifting from 1-2, but some bikes just seem to get it even with casual riding. Take it for a ride and nail it in 2nd and let it to go redline. If it "ratchets" or slips out of gear, pass unless you get a great deal ($1000 or less) and don't mind putting considerable time and/or money into it.

Otherwise the only other weakness of the Vmax is it's generally ****** electrical system. Max's are known to have problems keeping the battery fully charged and having low voltage.

I'm 5-8, maybe 190lbs in gear, and can handle my Max just fine around town, in parking lots, ect. I have to tippy-toe a bit at stoplights but it's not really a problem, hopefully when I get my Morley seat that's cut down a bit that will help.

Finding a Max with chain drive will be a rare find. It's an expensive and "involved" mod, and I doubt there's a ton of them out there. Most people that spent the money to do it are probably holding onto their bike. Not saying it's impossible, but you might be looking for a while.

Daffy · Dec 6, 2011

Thanks, I'm a torque guy, not HP so I won't be overrevving myself, and hopefully whoever I buy the bike from wouldn't have either.

I usually only miss shifts downshifting, for some weird reason. Never going up.

I'm used to using a tender religiously so hopefully the battery won't be an issue, I'll buy a new one when I get the bike if it's an issue.

I'm a bit confused on the 'real final price' on a chain drive conversion, I've heard anywhere from $900 to $4000 online (just from clicking).

I remember with my Shadow (only shafty I've owned) I really didn't like gassing it coming out of corners, cuz it hopped unpredictably, that's the main reason (weight notwithstanding) I want to convert. I don't mind the bike chopping around corners, many of my bikes have done that, but the shaft on the Shadow was not very controllable...hoppy.

RaWarrior said:
The motors do tend to be very reliable. A few people here have 100k+ miles on original engines. They're well built and hold up to being run hard. However, take the redline on the tach as gospel. They don't like to be over-revved and even a couple "whoops" moments with a missed shift or revving out a gear too much can toast a crank bearing.

As mentioned 2nd gear is the other issue. Typically this is caused by harsh/clutchless shifting from 1-2, but some bikes just seem to get it even with casual riding. Take it for a ride and nail it in 2nd and let it to go redline. If it "ratchets" or slips out of gear, pass unless you get a great deal ($1000 or less) and don't mind putting considerable time and/or money into it.

Otherwise the only other weakness of the Vmax is it's generally ****** electrical system. Max's are known to have problems keeping the battery fully charged and having low voltage.

I'm 5-8, maybe 190lbs in gear, and can handle my Max just fine around town, in parking lots, ect. I have to tippy-toe a bit at stoplights but it's not really a problem, hopefully when I get my Morley seat that's cut down a bit that will help.

Finding a Max with chain drive will be a rare find. It's an expensive and "involved" mod, and I doubt there's a ton of them out there. Most people that spent the money to do it are probably holding onto their bike. Not saying it's impossible, but you might be looking for a while.

mabdcmb@yahoo.com · Dec 6, 2011

Nice duc you had there daffy. I would have stopped at stage 2 myself :biglaugh:

The gen1 should weigh in around 625lbs wet. The bike doesn't feel top heavy to me at all. That is just one mans opinion though.

Mileage isn't much of an issue if the bike was looked after. As noted, there are quite a few guys here with over 50K miles. Some with over 100K.

Second gear is a sore spot that must be checked. Not cheap to fix!

Chain drive is not cheap either. I would talk to PCW racing about this if you're really interested.

Check out this thread for some more basic info.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=20518

midmoraider · Dec 6, 2011

It does like to flex coming out of corners in stock form. Frame braces can take away most of this. Also, having the steering head bearing set correctly makes a huge difference as well. I also lowered mine 2" in the front and 1.5" in the rear. This seems to make it turn in much easier and made it more stable imo.

spursmech · Dec 6, 2011

unk: Daffy, yes you can run Dymags if you have the cash. Chain drive is probably upwards of 5K with everything installed and shipped. If you want that mod bad enough I've seen used chain drive bikes in good shape sell for 5 - 6K on ebay with 10-15K in extras. But not too often. Good Luck, Spurs

twistedmax · Dec 6, 2011

I sold a mm chaindrive max years ago,I had 14k into it and had to let go for 7500

Miles Long · Dec 6, 2011

Quote "First, weight. The V-Max is about 647 pounds more than my Ducati LOL (OK more like twice the weight). It's a much lower seat height I think, does that make a big difference with how the weight feels when going very slow? I had an 86 FZ750, disliked how top heavy it was, but even thought it was heavy, I put 10K on it. I am 5 foot 8 inches and about 135 pounds, small guy. I can ride any bike once it gets going, but is such a heavy bike going to cause a small guy problems in parking lots, up hills backing up, etc.? I'm pretty experienced and did have a Shadow 750 (and a couple RZs and a CB360 lol), but none of these are as big as the V-Max. Again, just concerned with dead weight at zero to slow speeds."

I'm 5'7", with a 30" inseam. I've modded my bike a bit, one of the mods being a cut-down and widened seat. Wearing biking boots, I'm flat footed at stops. This is with stock suspension. Many folks install lowering kits in the front forks (or just move the forks up the trees),and/or install shorter shocks in the rear.
As for the low-speed handling, I think the underseat gastank and the superlight faux tank cover give the bike a lower than usual centre of gravity, for a bike of this weight. Even loaded down, (800 pounds plus?), I've never had a problem on paved roads. Dirt roads and campsites have been another matter, however. Which will explain the crash bars and engine guards.
Welcome to the forum. I would suggest posting pics, asking price, and as much info as possible before purchasing any Max you may have your eye on. It's a buyer's market, especially at this time of year. You will be impressed by the number of responses you will receive from the many knowledgeable forum members, concerning any potential purchase you may consider.
Cheers, good luck!

firefly · Dec 6, 2011

Daffy said:
Hi guys, first post. I've been into the V-Max since around 1986-1987, always wanted one. Having recently sold my 1098s, I find myself bikeless and am thinking about the bikes I'd love to replace the Ducati with.

I went from Toronto to Portmouth, Maine, and back, and it hurt. V-Max would be more fun there Not to mention the engine and my old boss (Dave Connery) was a drag racer, so it all kind of grew on me... I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind:

First, weight. The V-Max is about 647 pounds more than my Ducati LOL (OK more like twice the weight). It's a much lower seat height I think, does that make a big difference with how the weight feels when going very slow? I had an 86 FZ750, disliked how top heavy it was, but even thought it was heavy, I put 10K on it. I am 5 foot 8 inches and about 135 pounds, small guy. I can ride any bike once it gets going, but is such a heavy bike going to cause a small guy problems in parking lots, up hills backing up, etc.? I'm pretty experienced and did have a Shadow 750 (and a couple RZs and a CB360 lol), but none of these are as big as the V-Max. Again, just concerned with dead weight at zero to slow speeds.

Second, buying used. I've heard many times through the years that the engines are bulletprrof. Does that mean it's OK to buy what looks like a good condition copy from the 90s/2000s, for $4-6000? I see a lot of them are what I'd call high mileage, but does that matter if they really are bulletproof? I know it's an older bike, and I'm willing to spend money when required, and will customize it to suit me but generally speaking, what is the point (very generally), on an original motor, when things start to fall apart? I'm no mechanic, but can do anything (normal, not talking milling machine/lathe/torches here) outside the engine...so if the engine is at the point of total rebuild, it's gonna cost me. Not sure what I'm asking here except to ask if a bike hasn't been abused (something you need to take on faith of course, and visual inspection etc.), what's a good number of miles before you need to rip it apart and look at everything inside? I'm seeing VERY high KM's on Kijiji.

I don't want another sport bike, I want to be able to put a lot of clicks on it in a day and since there is so much nostalgia involved in my purchase (my youth) I'd really like to get a first gen V-Max. It's most likely my favourite bike, especially when it's loud

Any comments appreciated

Shawn

Down grading from a ducati to a vmax is like sticking your head in a toilet handling, top heavy, a money pit & you'll never be satisfied. I have an 03 max, it has ~70,000 miles now still running strong but hate the day I bought this bike and passed on a new FJR 2003, they were the same price.
the vmax looks nice but that is all. its just my opinion.

one2dmax · Dec 7, 2011

I've got a 1500 longrod chaindrive engine for sale (not cheap). Plus we could even set it up in a frame for you (I have one but it's setup for drag racing so we'd need to do another one). I could sell you the chassis that has the inverted front and and radials already in place. You'd probably want a set of the Carrozzerias when I get them ready though!

Sean

Rollie · Dec 7, 2011

firefly said:
Down grading from a ducati to a vmax is like sticking your head in a toilet handling, top heavy, a money pit & you'll never be satisfied. I have an 03 max, it has ~70,000 miles now still running strong but hate the day I bought this bike and passed on a new FJR 2003, they were the same price.
the vmax looks nice but that is all. its just my opinion.

If that Ducati wasn't a money pit what is ? If Daffy wasn't satisfied enough to keep it with mucho upgrades , chances are he's just like us , always changing , upgrading , etc. The VMax is much more than a nice looking bike . IMHO of course as well .

sdt354 · Dec 7, 2011

Welcome Daffy, how the bike was taken care of is more important than the mileage. A stored improperly, low mileage, bike is no bargain. My 89 really started to howl when it reached 35k for some reason. Is it finally broken in? I'd look for a bike with the mods I want, and done already. It's sad but true, you never recover all your money for the mods you do. The Vmax is your perfect bike; you can make it whatever you want it to be. Parts are easy to find, new and used. And, this forum has no equal for help and great guys. CR, I used spell check!...lol
Steve-o

Thevmaxrider · Dec 7, 2011

Daffy,

First off welcome to the forum. Too bad you weren't around recently or you could have purchased my Max (pretty much done to your specs with some extras) for a steal of a price. If you would like to hop on out to Milton some time to take a look and get some ideas for what to look for, or just to hang and shoot the ****, drop me a PM. Am pretty easy to get ahold of through here. Can also help you in your search.

RaWarrior · Dec 7, 2011

Maybe things have changed, but my understanding was that like any exotic vehicle, Ducati's were expensive to buy, and subsequently expensive to own. Great at what they do (go turn and stop), but a difficult bike to "live with". People who own Lamborghini's don't drive them to the grocery store and pick the kids up at soccer practice with them.

The Vmax's electrical issues are mostly from a poorly designed harness. There's several electrical bottlenecks, too-small wire gauges, ect. Voltage magically disappears throughout the system.

On my '97 I ended up having to replace the stator, the R/R, and replacing the wiring with thicker gauges until I got 14.4v at the battery(was like 12 or so before). You can see my thread in the "how to" for more info about that. Still, there's only like 11v at the blinker relay, 12 at the headlight, 12.5 at the ignition. As such my blinkers have never worked right, which is more than a little annoying.

My bike has frame braces, a fork brace, R1 brakes, forks w/Progressive springs and lowered internally, and slid up the tree 3/4". Metz ME880 tires. Rear shocks are stock. It handles as good as I can possibly expect from a bike of this weight and wheelbase. I tremendously out-handle my buddy's M109, it isn't even a contest. Mostly because that M109 is as wide as a city bus, so at about 10* of lean the pegs start dragging. I know he's scraping the exhaust long before I touch a peg.

CustomMax · Dec 7, 2011

Thevmaxrider said:
Daffy,

First off welcome to the forum. Too bad you weren't around recently or you could have purchased my Max (pretty much done to your specs with some extras) for a steal of a price. If you would like to hop on out to Milton some time to take a look and get some ideas for what to look for, or just to hang and shoot the ****, drop me a PM. Am pretty easy to get ahold of through here. Can also help you in your search.

Jim, did you wind up selling Toxic?

Buying a used 1st gen V-Max - skinny short guy lol

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