donnelly317
Well-Known Member
Well I had coolant seaping from the wheep hole on my water pump. Couldnt find anything on how to change the seals on here so I took a bunch of pictures while doing it. It was really easy everything was in the manual just not the greatest for pictures. Hope this helps some of you guys out. Sorry some of the pictures were a little blurry.
These are the parts you will need ( Thank you sdt354 )
I ordered everthing threw http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_select.asp
It was easy enough to just copy and paste P/N's instead of looking at a fiche.
PRODUCT INFORMATION:
Mfg Product Number: 93306-00004-00 (Koyo 6000)
Description: BEARING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 93101-10090-00
Description: OIL SEAL,S-TYPE for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 11H-12438-10-00
Description: SEAL, MECHANICAL for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 93211-16591-00
Description: O-RING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 214-11198-01-00
Description: GASKET for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 3JP-12449-02-00
Description: GASKET,WATER PUMP for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 93210-27778-00
Description: O-RING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 2
Drain the coolant out of main system
Align the coolant drain valve to the "on" turn to the left till you feel it click now your ready to drain.
Remove the drain plug underneat water pump. Make sure you have a catcher there because it will poor out of there. I made a slight mess :bang head:
Once she is all drained out you want to remove the water pump assembly remove these allen bolts. I found it easier to remove the cover then the pump assembly. It wont just fall off you gotta work it off. It will come loose just the gasket holdng it on there.
These three pictures are what it will look like once you get the assembly off
These are the tools I used to disassemble the pump
First remove the snap ring on gear side then remove the gear and the locking pin from Impeller shaft
After that there is another snap ring to remove then you can pull out the impeller and shaft. Giving you acess to the seals and bearing.
After the impeller is removed I was able to pull out the rubber mechanical seal and didnt realize there was an outside metal piece around this seal thats "tightly fit" into the housing. So no need to remove that rubber like I did youll be able to tap it out together as one piece.
I used an aluminum punch to tap out the bearing in the direction of the picture above. Cam out pritty easy. after that is removed you can remove the black rubber seal from behind the bearing with a hook pick.
Once you get the bearing and the black rubber seal from behind the bearing out you can flip housing over and use the punch to tap out the mechanical seal.
You will end up with these pieces :biglaugh:
This is just a picture with everything removed. this is a good point to scrap off any gasket left on the assembly from the crankcase if ther is any. Remember do not do not use a screw driver you will gouge the surface and it will effect the sealing. Use a plastic or fenolic scraper
Now get the new mechanical seal out. I used a 1" socket to tap it into place with the mallet. You can use a vise or C-clamp if you prefer but just tap it in as even as possible.
Once the seal is in place it will look like this :clapping:
then install the new seal underneath bearing then tap bearing into place with mallet. A socket will probably work well for this also I did not use one.
Last seal is on the impeller shaft. Use a small flat head to pry it out and then install new seal.
Its all pritty strait forward but here is a few tips
Torque bolts 7.2Ft lbs
Install drain plug with new gasket
Turn drain valve off
Start engine and pour antifreeze into cap until full
Thats it hope this helps atleast one person out!
These are the parts you will need ( Thank you sdt354 )
I ordered everthing threw http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_select.asp
It was easy enough to just copy and paste P/N's instead of looking at a fiche.
PRODUCT INFORMATION:
Mfg Product Number: 93306-00004-00 (Koyo 6000)
Description: BEARING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 93101-10090-00
Description: OIL SEAL,S-TYPE for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 11H-12438-10-00
Description: SEAL, MECHANICAL for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 93211-16591-00
Description: O-RING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 214-11198-01-00
Description: GASKET for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 3JP-12449-02-00
Description: GASKET,WATER PUMP for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 1
Mfg Product Number: 93210-27778-00
Description: O-RING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
Order Quantity: 2
Drain the coolant out of main system
- Remove Faux cover
- Remove Right scoop
- Remove coolant cap behind right scoop
Align the coolant drain valve to the "on" turn to the left till you feel it click now your ready to drain.
Remove the drain plug underneat water pump. Make sure you have a catcher there because it will poor out of there. I made a slight mess :bang head:
Once she is all drained out you want to remove the water pump assembly remove these allen bolts. I found it easier to remove the cover then the pump assembly. It wont just fall off you gotta work it off. It will come loose just the gasket holdng it on there.
These three pictures are what it will look like once you get the assembly off
These are the tools I used to disassemble the pump
First remove the snap ring on gear side then remove the gear and the locking pin from Impeller shaft
After that there is another snap ring to remove then you can pull out the impeller and shaft. Giving you acess to the seals and bearing.
After the impeller is removed I was able to pull out the rubber mechanical seal and didnt realize there was an outside metal piece around this seal thats "tightly fit" into the housing. So no need to remove that rubber like I did youll be able to tap it out together as one piece.
I used an aluminum punch to tap out the bearing in the direction of the picture above. Cam out pritty easy. after that is removed you can remove the black rubber seal from behind the bearing with a hook pick.
Once you get the bearing and the black rubber seal from behind the bearing out you can flip housing over and use the punch to tap out the mechanical seal.
You will end up with these pieces :biglaugh:
This is just a picture with everything removed. this is a good point to scrap off any gasket left on the assembly from the crankcase if ther is any. Remember do not do not use a screw driver you will gouge the surface and it will effect the sealing. Use a plastic or fenolic scraper
Now get the new mechanical seal out. I used a 1" socket to tap it into place with the mallet. You can use a vise or C-clamp if you prefer but just tap it in as even as possible.
Once the seal is in place it will look like this :clapping:
then install the new seal underneath bearing then tap bearing into place with mallet. A socket will probably work well for this also I did not use one.
Last seal is on the impeller shaft. Use a small flat head to pry it out and then install new seal.
Its all pritty strait forward but here is a few tips
- use Clean antifreeze to lubricate new seals
- When your removing seals take note of direction the seals are
- After removing snap rings you may need to use pliers to squeeze them back. mine stayed expanded
Torque bolts 7.2Ft lbs
Install drain plug with new gasket
Turn drain valve off
Start engine and pour antifreeze into cap until full
Thats it hope this helps atleast one person out!
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