Here is a pictorial of the install for Birdoprey's COP's . I apologize for the poor pic quality and the layout. This is the only way I know how to set it up.
There are 10 pics, Numbered from the left, top row-#1 - #6, bottom row #7 - #10.
#1- COP and wires with crimped spades
#2- Factory spades, removed from plastic connector, showing holding tangs. Tangs must be depressed to remove spades from connector.
#3- Male side of factory connector showing (barely) small access notches on top side of slots. Slide a thin screwdriver or bobby pin in notch to depress tang and remove factory spade. I peened a nail flat and filed it to fit the notch.
#4- COP with factory connector. After the factory spades have been removed simply slide in the spades which come attached to COP wires. Use a test light to determine which side is hot and match the red COP wire to that side. The black, of course, matches with the other terminal. On my bike the red/white wire was the hot one.
#5- COP on #1 spark plug. The COP's slide over the spark plugs in the same manner that the factory plug boots do.
#6- Factory coils for cylinders #1 & #3 removed, COP's connected, wires tucked away.
#7- Under the left scoop is an electronic mounting plate which has to be removed to allow access to #4 coil. There are 3 screws to remove and let the mounting plate hang. The coil which feeds #4 cylinder is above #3 cylinder and vice versa. This cross feed will make sense when you see how the wires are routed.
#8- COP to #4 cylinder connected
#9- Under right side scoop is another mounting plate holding the radiator cap and housing, hoses and some other stuff. There is a plastic shroud which pulls straight off exposing the mounting plate. This plate also has 3 mounting screws which have to be removed. There is little movement in this plate but enough to maneuver the ignition switch shroud out. Then you will be able to find and access the connector for #2 cylinder.
#10- COP to # 2 cylinder connected.
It is not necessary to install the male plastic factory connectorsto the COP's but I like the neatness factor plus I sprayed some 'purple' Mechanics Choice elec. protectant in the female side to prevent corrosion.
This is a very simple mod that I found to be more than worth the little effort it took. My acceleration was quicker, start-ups easier with little or no choke and low & mid range power was noticeably improved. Bike felt smoother and more powerful overall.
I'm very confident that mileage will increase, but haven't been able to get a mileage run in due to weather conditions.
This explanation prolly creates more questions than it answers so feel free to PM me and I will try to answer them.
Also, although my bike seemed to be running fine before this mod, after removing the back 2 coils and inspecting both the front coils, I noticed 3 had one or more cracks in them.
There are 10 pics, Numbered from the left, top row-#1 - #6, bottom row #7 - #10.
#1- COP and wires with crimped spades
#2- Factory spades, removed from plastic connector, showing holding tangs. Tangs must be depressed to remove spades from connector.
#3- Male side of factory connector showing (barely) small access notches on top side of slots. Slide a thin screwdriver or bobby pin in notch to depress tang and remove factory spade. I peened a nail flat and filed it to fit the notch.
#4- COP with factory connector. After the factory spades have been removed simply slide in the spades which come attached to COP wires. Use a test light to determine which side is hot and match the red COP wire to that side. The black, of course, matches with the other terminal. On my bike the red/white wire was the hot one.
#5- COP on #1 spark plug. The COP's slide over the spark plugs in the same manner that the factory plug boots do.
#6- Factory coils for cylinders #1 & #3 removed, COP's connected, wires tucked away.
#7- Under the left scoop is an electronic mounting plate which has to be removed to allow access to #4 coil. There are 3 screws to remove and let the mounting plate hang. The coil which feeds #4 cylinder is above #3 cylinder and vice versa. This cross feed will make sense when you see how the wires are routed.
#8- COP to #4 cylinder connected
#9- Under right side scoop is another mounting plate holding the radiator cap and housing, hoses and some other stuff. There is a plastic shroud which pulls straight off exposing the mounting plate. This plate also has 3 mounting screws which have to be removed. There is little movement in this plate but enough to maneuver the ignition switch shroud out. Then you will be able to find and access the connector for #2 cylinder.
#10- COP to # 2 cylinder connected.
It is not necessary to install the male plastic factory connectorsto the COP's but I like the neatness factor plus I sprayed some 'purple' Mechanics Choice elec. protectant in the female side to prevent corrosion.
This is a very simple mod that I found to be more than worth the little effort it took. My acceleration was quicker, start-ups easier with little or no choke and low & mid range power was noticeably improved. Bike felt smoother and more powerful overall.
I'm very confident that mileage will increase, but haven't been able to get a mileage run in due to weather conditions.
This explanation prolly creates more questions than it answers so feel free to PM me and I will try to answer them.
Also, although my bike seemed to be running fine before this mod, after removing the back 2 coils and inspecting both the front coils, I noticed 3 had one or more cracks in them.
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