Buster Hymen
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- Joined
- Mar 28, 2006
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Charging Fault Finding Flowchart
- Thread starter Buster Hymen
- Start date
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copilot777
Well-Known Member
Very informative . Thanks buster , Did you know my bike had charging issues? J/k but it does and this attachment helps me .I have been searching for a way to pinpoint charging systems problems for almost a week . All I had was a clymer repair manual . and it is not very detailed with electrical issues. Thanks again., Jason:stickyman:
What is RR? Count the different colors comming from the "RR".
Rectifier/regulator. You should have three colors coming out of that. Three white wires, a red one and black.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Rectifier / Regulator
It regulates the voltage in your system, and is usually located behind the left passenger footpeg area.
Damn mark just beat me to it lol
It regulates the voltage in your system, and is usually located behind the left passenger footpeg area.
Damn mark just beat me to it lol
Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
If you have a vintage Max - before around 1996, I think - you have a R/R unit that didn't work well when it was new. There are a lot of posts here about upgrading to the newer type unit. Aftermarket R/R units are cheaper, and in my case (an '85 with a crappy charging system!) FIXED THE PROBLEM IMMEDIATELY! (cap letters for emphasis - not because I hit the caplock key!)
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I changed out the stator and now my voltage reading has dropped.
While engine was running, I was getting about 13 volts and now just over 10.
What is the potential that is caused by the rectifier/regulator on my 92 Vmax?
I disconnect the battery and the voltage reads at aprox 12.45 but when it is connected the bike doesnt want to start now?
-Paul
While engine was running, I was getting about 13 volts and now just over 10.
What is the potential that is caused by the rectifier/regulator on my 92 Vmax?
I disconnect the battery and the voltage reads at aprox 12.45 but when it is connected the bike doesnt want to start now?
-Paul
Charge your battery and then start over on the fault finding diagram.
Dennis Tobin
New Member
Could someone supply the correct terminal connections to connect the 5 pin R1 /R6 Yamaha voltage regulator/rectifier bridge to replace the stock unit on a 1999 Yamaha Vmax ?
Hypocycloid3
Well-Known Member
What if the reading is ZERO resistance when checking the 3 White Stator Wires against the other colored ones?
The Fault Finding Flowchart seems to be saying if your not getting exactly 4-6 ohms then your Stator needs replaced ~because none of that 'rotor brush' or 'separate fieldwinding' stuff applies to us VMax owners right??
The Fault Finding Flowchart seems to be saying if your not getting exactly 4-6 ohms then your Stator needs replaced ~because none of that 'rotor brush' or 'separate fieldwinding' stuff applies to us VMax owners right??
Hypocycloid3
Well-Known Member
So the zero resistance at the stator is okay then and I should be looking at doing this mod?
Just making sure I got the jist because in my way of understanding, the Output from the Stator is happening in the charging system BEFORE the R/R even comes into the equation doesn't it?
Check your AC voltage at the 3 wire stator plug. Check each wire i think if i remember right you should 52 to 60 volts at 4000 to 5000 rpms. Check this 1st
Make sure the stator is not grounded - check continuity each stator wire to ground / vmax motor. Then start looking in to other problems.
I had notes step by step on this. I been there with problems like yours before. My old stator wires got mess up when dot 4 brake fluid drop down on the wiring.
Make sure the stator is not grounded - check continuity each stator wire to ground / vmax motor. Then start looking in to other problems.
I had notes step by step on this. I been there with problems like yours before. My old stator wires got mess up when dot 4 brake fluid drop down on the wiring.
Attachments
Hypocycloid3
Well-Known Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v2LtHlvcqI&feature=youtu.be
So if the check is comparable to what he's doing about 1/2 through this video then my results are not good.
1st like you said I did the 3 phase test with the motor running around 5k only reads 7-10 Volts AC
then when I switch to Ohms with the motor off and the stator disconnected from the R/R across all 3 I get 0.00 not 0.L like he does AND I also get 0.00 on all three phases to a known good ground.
Bad Stator? Sure hope not K&N Yamaha lists the OEM one for $427
So if the check is comparable to what he's doing about 1/2 through this video then my results are not good.
1st like you said I did the 3 phase test with the motor running around 5k only reads 7-10 Volts AC
then when I switch to Ohms with the motor off and the stator disconnected from the R/R across all 3 I get 0.00 not 0.L like he does AND I also get 0.00 on all three phases to a known good ground.
Bad Stator? Sure hope not K&N Yamaha lists the OEM one for $427
info
1
New FH001 MOS-FET R/R fitted in front of airfilters.
Below R/R blue sensor for EFI water temp.
Left filter air inlet temp and computer wiring to connect to LapTop for instant adjustments to EFI.
2
Stator wires with crimped and soldered extension wires (yellow).
3
Insulated with shrink tube ready for last tubing.
4
Last layer of tube to protect and keep them together.
5
Stator wires (yellow) and positive (red) and negative (black) wires coming up behind plastic electrical board. Connectors crimped and soldered.
6
R/R inplace in front of airfilters.
7
Compare wires.
Top - Standard Yamaha
Buttom - New HD wire
Wires:
Yellow stator extentions = 2,5sqmm - AWG14-12
Positive (+) wire from R/R to Battery (Red) = 4,0sqmm - AWG12
Negative wire (-,ground, earth)(Black) = 4,0sqmm - AWG12
All connections crimped and soldered.
8
Shindengen FH001 Regulator Rectifier. Simple bracket made out of 2mm aluminium.
This R/R is found on the MT-01 and some of the newest R1 bikes.
The R/R uses MOS-FET tech. to regulate power. It will not get hot and doesn't need to sit in the wind.
My messured results @1000rpms running bike with EFI are:
No consumers: 14,5V
Headlight on: 14,5V
Head light + Fan : 14,0V
Messured @2500rpms:
No consumers: 14,5V
Headlight on: 14,5V
Headlight + Fan: 14,5V
This means that I am on the safe side even with the EFI setup.
If you plan to do the mod don't go down in wire sizes.
3 wire side of the r1 go to stator plug it don't matter witch way it gets hook up.
The to wires on the lift of the r1 go the the battery a 30 amps on plus side in between the battery and plus of the r1... look at the pic of my r1
1
New FH001 MOS-FET R/R fitted in front of airfilters.
Below R/R blue sensor for EFI water temp.
Left filter air inlet temp and computer wiring to connect to LapTop for instant adjustments to EFI.
2
Stator wires with crimped and soldered extension wires (yellow).
3
Insulated with shrink tube ready for last tubing.
4
Last layer of tube to protect and keep them together.
5
Stator wires (yellow) and positive (red) and negative (black) wires coming up behind plastic electrical board. Connectors crimped and soldered.
6
R/R inplace in front of airfilters.
7
Compare wires.
Top - Standard Yamaha
Buttom - New HD wire
Wires:
Yellow stator extentions = 2,5sqmm - AWG14-12
Positive (+) wire from R/R to Battery (Red) = 4,0sqmm - AWG12
Negative wire (-,ground, earth)(Black) = 4,0sqmm - AWG12
All connections crimped and soldered.
8
Shindengen FH001 Regulator Rectifier. Simple bracket made out of 2mm aluminium.
This R/R is found on the MT-01 and some of the newest R1 bikes.
The R/R uses MOS-FET tech. to regulate power. It will not get hot and doesn't need to sit in the wind.
My messured results @1000rpms running bike with EFI are:
No consumers: 14,5V
Headlight on: 14,5V
Head light + Fan : 14,0V
Messured @2500rpms:
No consumers: 14,5V
Headlight on: 14,5V
Headlight + Fan: 14,5V
This means that I am on the safe side even with the EFI setup.
If you plan to do the mod don't go down in wire sizes.
3 wire side of the r1 go to stator plug it don't matter witch way it gets hook up.
The to wires on the lift of the r1 go the the battery a 30 amps on plus side in between the battery and plus of the r1... look at the pic of my r1
