06 Vmax Delkevic exhaust, K&N Airbox and Filter, Stage 7 jets???

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Foxviewnet

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First Dyno on this bike. I was curious as to why the HP was actually a bit less with the Tboost set at 3000 rpm than it was with it set at 6000 rpm across the board? Someone has the logical answer but fill me in if you could enlighten me.
Also I was told that the main jets may be a little large from what the results indicate. It ran strong and no disappointments.
 

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With Tboost, you are making the Vboost come on at 3000 rpms, instead of the stock 6000 rpms. What Vboost does is when its open, you get the intake charge, and fuel for 2 carbs......and at 3000 rpm, the motor cant handle it. Ive always been told that the stock cams are ground, so they start coming in around 6000 rpm.
 
With Tboost, you are making the Vboost come on at 3000 rpms, instead of the stock 6000 rpms. What Vboost does is when its open, you get the intake charge, and fuel for 2 carbs......and at 3000 rpm, the motor cant handle it. Ive always been told that the stock cams are ground, so they start coming in around 6000 rpm.
I think I get it. Even though you feel the seat of the pants charge response, the engine is just maxed out? Pardon the pun. Am I close?
 
First Dyno on this bike. I was curious as to why the HP was actually a bit less with the Tboost set at 3000 rpm than it was with it set at 6000 rpm across the board? Someone has the logical answer but fill me in if you could enlighten me.
Also I was told that the main jets may be a little large from what the results indicate. It ran strong and no disappointments.

Yes despite what some people might say, opening VBoost early only hurts power.......your dyno graph is one of the best examples of documented proof that I've seen.

It should be a sticky.......

You are a little bit rich on the main based on the AFR readings....a little smaller jet might get you a couple of HP.
 
Yes despite what some people might say, opening VBoost early only hurts power.......your dyno graph is one of the best examples of documented proof that I've seen.

It should be a sticky.......

+1. Posting what doesnt work is as important as posting what DOES work.
 
I also went back and Looked at the A/F ratio...and your leaving some HP on the table. Vmaxes that Ive seen, tend to make the best hp at an A/F ratio of 13.6-14.0.
 
Yep, the Butt dyno is horribly inaccurate, dont ever trust it.
Noted!!!
So, in theory...or what we learned from this dyno... a 1/4 mile ET would be quicker with stock 6000rpm vboost settings? Considering that track conditions and pass were under duplicate conditions?
 
LOL....but Dennis, people dont want facts and figures and graphs, they like what their Butt Dyno tells them...(I'm being facetious of course):rofl_200:

LMAO, those darn facts always seem to get in the way of a good story.
 
Noted!!!
So, in theory...or what we learned from this dyno... a 1/4 mile ET would be quicker with stock 6000rpm vboost settings? Considering that track conditions and pass were under duplicate conditions?
Yes, as long as all other things are equal.
Also you can use smaller main jets (150 or 147.5 Mikuni's) to lean it out a tad and probably pick up a few more horses.
 
Yes, as long as all other things are equal.
Also you can use smaller main jets (150 or 147.5 Mikuni's) to lean it out a tad and probably pick up a few more horses.
That is what I was told at the shop this morning. I was also told that you could add 4 individual air filters instead of using the K&N airbox and filter. Any thoughts on that?
 
That is what I was told at the shop this morning. I was also told that you could add 4 individual air filters instead of using the K&N airbox and filter. Any thoughts on that?

Yes you can, you will need air correctors, and the like, and that is the stage 7 kit filters.

I personally like the kit that Sean Morley sells. It uses the stock airbox, but moves the filter, and changes it as well, so you get better midrange because of the velocity stacks in the stock airbox, than just pod filters. Now that being said Maleko89 has been working with adding in some of his own velocity stacks under the stage 7 pod filters....I just dont know what kind of numbers he is putting up.
 
Yes you can, you will need air correctors, and the like, and that is the stage 7 kit filters.

I personally like the kit that Sean Morley sells. It uses the stock airbox, but moves the filter, and changes it as well, so you get better midrange because of the velocity stacks in the stock airbox, than just pod filters. Now that being said Maleko89 has been working with adding in some of his own velocity stacks under the stage 7 pod filters....I just dont know what kind of numbers he is putting up.
I will check into that for sure. I really appreciate you guys takin time to skool me in the wondrous ways of Vmax tuning. My wife is texting me from the bedroom so I better call it a night. She doesn't sleep unless I am sawing logs beside her. Have a great night and see you later on!
Chris
 
That is what I was told at the shop this morning. I was also told that you could add 4 individual air filters instead of using the K&N airbox and filter. Any thoughts on that?
The Delkevics' are slip ons so the individual air pods (or Morley jet kit) would actually be a waste of money unless you also install a Full after market exhaust system.
The Stock down pipes are too restrictive to get any benefit from the pods.
 
The Delkevics' are slip ons so the individual air pods (or Morley jet kit) would actually be a waste of money unless you also install a Full after market exhaust system.
The Stock down pipes are too restrictive to get any benefit from the pods.
10-4 on that Dennis. Probably need to move a step down on the main jets...economics are probably more desirable at this point.
 
10-4 on that Dennis. Probably need to move a step down on the main jets...economics are probably more desirable at this point.
Yeah, I personally just have slip ons too (Supertrapps) and mine put out 118-119 on a few different dyno's so I never bothered with full exhaust and a jet kit.
I really do need to drop my mains down a size or two though, because it is slightly rich.
 

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Good numbers for a basically stock bike!

Don't bother with a jet kit like stage 7 or Morley's unless you put on a full, aftermarket exhaust system. They don't play well with the stock system. A slip on doesn't help power because the OEM head pipes are the restriction.

Swapping the main jets for mikuni 150 or 147.5 will be you best bet with the stock headers,and a slip on. You may need to add some needle shims and play with the AF screws a little too.

If you want to maximize what you have for a little cash send Sean Morley an email and ask him for those jets and a pack of needle shims.

Check the stickies in the carb section for a how to on removing carbs and replacing main jets. The vmax is surprisingly easy to change jets on.

Dont forget a synch tool. After pulling and reinstalling carbs, you should check synch. It's a must have tool for all vmax owners. The Morgan carb tune II or the digisync are good options. Digisync is a forum vendor and offer a member discount. Check their section on the forum here for info.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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