07 stage 7 and Hindle 4-1

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tahoe99

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
68
Reaction score
0
Location
Tea, SouthDakota
scan0002.jpg



Here is a pic of my 1st dyno run on my 07 Max.
So far it has a Hindle 4-1 exhaust and stage 7 dynojet kit.
How does this look and why is my run from 3-5k so goofy? The bike had a whole 2 miles on it when they did this run so they didnt get too crazy. I wanted to get a baseline of where I was at.
Do I need to work on the jetting a little?

Thanks
 
scan0002.jpg



Here is a pic of my 1st dyno run on my 07 Max.
So far it has a Hindle 4-1 exhaust and stage 7 dynojet kit.
How does this look and why is my run from 3-5k so goofy? The bike had a whole 2 miles on it when they did this run so they didnt get too crazy. I wanted to get a baseline of where I was at.
Do I need to work on the jetting a little?

Thanks

You need to let the rings break in for 600 miles or so before honing on it like that! Probably barely had compression being that new. I saw them blow up a OCC chopper trying to dyno it while it was still new.Blew it sky high and then had to have it rebuilt overnight to make the unveiling.
 
There is alot of shitty things in the world.

Crunching a new bike's engine before you get a chance to ride is definately one of them.
 
my max felt like it had no power when new during the first 1000 miles as it got closer to 1000 miles i could feel it getting stronger and stronger...im sure if you dyno it after some miles are on it the numbers will be higher im sure jetting is off with those torque dips...id guess with jetting and break in you would be at 120 hp and 80 tq
 
Not the best idea to add performance parts and do dyno runs on an engine that is not properly broken in yet - should run engine in stock trim for at lest 600 miles or more. The rings need to seat first, than you can put it through its paces.
Not thrying to rag you - just want you to have a dependable long lasting ride.

Mike
 
WOW..didn't realize I would open a hornets nest!

I really didnt want to go into the debate of breakin of an engine.

I was more curious about the dips in the 3-5 k range than anything.

After @ 500 miles it gets strapped back on the dyno again.
 
Most vmaxes have a dip there. Stage 7 is worse because the drilled slides and shorter springs allow the slides to open quicker making it rich. Notice that your a/f reading dips too.

Mark
#1098
 
WOW..didn't realize I would open a hornets nest!

I really didnt want to go into the debate of breakin of an engine.

I was more curious about the dips in the 3-5 k range than anything.

After @ 500 miles it gets strapped back on the dyno again.

Most vmaxes have a dip there. Stage 7 is worse because the drilled slides and shorter springs allow the slides to open quicker making it rich. Notice that your a/f reading dips too.

Mark
#1098

REALLY rich! BAD! You need to do some tuning on that bad mamerjammer...:thumbs up:
 
WOW..didn't realize I would open a hornets nest!

I really didnt want to go into the debate of breakin of an engine.

I was more curious about the dips in the 3-5 k range than anything.

After @ 500 miles it gets strapped back on the dyno again.
Put the stock springs back in it.
 
My stage 7 bike dips too, after a lot of reading and research, of course Maleko is right. :D

Your numbers seem a tad low at 115 rwhp, but I didn't catch your elevation either.

Here's my dyno graph for comparo. It's a '93, stage 7, 4-1 Hindle, Kerker Can.
VMaxDyno2.jpg
 
That's a nice curve Quarter horse. :)

I'm sure his horsepower number will go up as the bike breaks in. So, hurry up and get those 1000 miles in. :banana:

Mark
#1098
 
That's a nice curve Quarter horse. :)

I'm sure his horsepower number will go up as the bike breaks in. So, hurry up and get those 1000 miles in. :banana:

Mark
#1098

That's why I've been waiting to dyno mine but I think by the time Topeka comes around I'll be ready for a baseline and then the stage 7 tune!:banana:
 
I dis-agree with waiting 600 miles to say the engine is broken in. We have broken in our current engines in about 20-30 miles with very good reuslts.

Sean
 
I agree with Sean. The proper way to breakin a motor is to run it through the gears and redline it in sort intervals. What you are not suppose to do is ride it for extended periods of time at low or high rpm.
This is coming from an article I read in cycle world or motorcyclist and an old friend who is a mechanic from a profesional yamaha race team in Texas.
Sorry tis is getting away from your question. It does need to be broke in for max performance
 
In the automotive racing I've done it's a 30 minute ring break in and go beat on 'em. I'm sure these are a touch different, but not a whole lot?
 
Try putting the velocity stacks inside the individual K&N filters. They will need to be trimmed, about a 1/4 inch off the top bell that is the tallest. Then fold them together and slide them up inside the filters. Use a screw driver to unfold them when the are inside the filters. Mount them on the carbs and pull the filters as high as they will go on the stacks. Test fit the cover to make sure they are not hitting the cover. The front ones will be higher than the back ones because the tank cover curves down in the back.

I had this setup with a t-boost and made some good #'s both torque and HP. I hope I explained it so you can understand how it was done, it really was not hard.
 
QuarterHorse,
I am at stock elevation right now. If you look at my graph I am running pretty rich across the board. I need to get it dialed in a bit and should be seeing(hoping) for the 120hp mark.
I basically got a smokin deal from U-motors on the parts and install so I let them install it. Everyone was pretty anxious to see what power it would pull so I decided to let them do a few runs on the dyno.
After that I was going break it in a bit more off the dyno then bring it back after @ 500 miles.

www.mototuneusa.com is the way I broke in my Max.:thumbs up:

Funny you brought that up. I saw that site @ 3 years ago. All the engine builders I talk to break in their bikes that way.
Both the wifes Harley and my old RS Warrior(after 110cu kit install) were done that way with great results.

I am just a little new to the "old school" carbs the Vmax has. Give me a wideband, ECU and laptop I can do that!

I was reading here http://www.musclebike.org/tipsandlinks.htm and plan on putting the stock carb springs back in. Hopefully that will clean up the 3-5k dips a little I am seeing. Now I have to figure out how to get it leaned out a little!
 
Back
Top