12.3V can't start?

[ckchin]

My 93vmax battery was measure 12.3V but only I can heard is izzzz from the coil...the battery was less than a year..
All the battery and cable are stock.FYI I just switch back with original Signal Light from the previous LED light.is this cause the problem?
Should I need to change the thicker ground cable?or Larger battery?

 

[SpecOps13]

Welcome to the Forum. There are many things that could be causing your trouble. The connections from the Regulator Rectifier may not have a good connection for charging your battery. These can be soldered, eliminating the connectors. Try an external source to charge the battery and see if the voltage comes up higher. There are connectors between the battery and starter solenoid that can be soldered. A bad ground may also be the problem. Then again it could be a bad battery, yes after 1 year. I suggest the Odyssey replacement if that's the case.. It is much higher capacity. Once you get the bike started, you need to check the charge at 2000 or 3000 rpm to insure the system boosts the charging up too... It could also be a bad starter... Searching the specifics here on the forum will guide you. Great write ups exist from many of the members here...

Good Luck,
Dave

 

[[email protected]]

First thing I would do is try to jump start the bike from a known good battery.

Just because you are showing 12.3 V with the battery sitting there, it doesn't mean that its any good. Check the voltage when you are cranking it over. It may be dropping considerably under load. If this is the case, you can check to see if the battery water level is ok and recharge, or replace it.

If it will not start when jumped from another vehicle, you will have to dig further

 

[SpecOps13]

If you jump start it, Do Not have the engine running in the other vehicle...

 

[ckchin]

just start it work fine....maybe I always drive slowly and max 5min daily so it won't charge so much from the rectifier...or maybe the rectifier or regulator was old??

 

[maleko89]

I'd take battery out and add water and test.

 

[one2dmax]

OK, let's dispel some misunderstanding.

First, a battery is considered fully charged at 12.6 volts (or 2.1 volts per cell x 6 cells - so a 6 volt would be 6.3 with 3 cells). A battery is considered fully DIScharged at 12.43 volts. Keep in mind that doesn't mean a vehicle won't start with it lower but your odds quickly diminish and the batteries storage is minimal at that point.

Cranking voltage needs to stay as high as possible but 9.6V is considered to be the cutoff point that below that the battery is either discharged or bad. Our bikes electrical system actually needs more voltage then that to even turn on the CDI/TCI. If can crank over just fine but not start.

As long as your jumper vehicle is a 12 volt system and also in good condition (not overcharging/bad rectifier) then you can jump with it running but this could potentially have a bad side effect on the battery and some even say the motorcycles charging system (though I disagree about the charging system part). Still, a safe bet would be to do it from the vehicle not running or a very short duration with it running if needed. We regularly jump with a high output starter/charger but avoid extended durations on 15 amp or higher (we have used as high as 250amps without any problems for short durations).

Now, as has been pointed out if the battery is a lead acid battery (which most are) then you can examine and refill the fluid and recharge the battery if it's low. This may or may not help it. When they get low they tend to overheat the lead plates causing warpage and shorts internally. A lead acid battery is common to go bad after a year or two. Some last longer and the more often it's used usually will let it live longer.

A gel/AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery will usually have more power and last far longer but cost twice as much. If you are going to be keeping the bike it's worth the effort required to find one (see our website for how to put in an oversize battery if you want but the noted PC680 battery works well and is a direct replacement - slightly smaller then the OEM battery but still stronger).

I've attached a great .pdf that can help with your electrical system woes.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

 

[VMAX1260]

That's nice info Sean. will be very usefull in the future if problems start

 

[satariel666]

OK, let's dispel some misunderstanding.

First, a battery is considered fully charged at 12.6 volts (or 2.1 volts per cell x 6 cells - so a 6 volt would be 6.3 with 3 cells). A battery is considered fully DIScharged at 12.43 volts. Keep in mind that doesn't mean a vehicle won't start with it lower but your odds quickly diminish and the batteries storage is minimal at that point.

Cranking voltage needs to stay as high as possible but 9.6V is considered to be the cutoff point that below that the battery is either discharged or bad. Our bikes electrical system actually needs more voltage then that to even turn on the CDI/TCI. If can crank over just fine but not start.

As long as your jumper vehicle is a 12 volt system and also in good condition (not overcharging/bad rectifier) then you can jump with it running but this could potentially have a bad side effect on the battery and some even say the motorcycles charging system (though I disagree about the charging system part). Still, a safe bet would be to do it from the vehicle not running or a very short duration with it running if needed. We regularly jump with a high output starter/charger but avoid extended durations on 15 amp or higher (we have used as high as 250amps without any problems for short durations).

Now, as has been pointed out if the battery is a lead acid battery (which most are) then you can examine and refill the fluid and recharge the battery if it's low. This may or may not help it. When they get low they tend to overheat the lead plates causing warpage and shorts internally. A lead acid battery is common to go bad after a year or two. Some last longer and the more often it's used usually will let it live longer.

A gel/AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery will usually have more power and last far longer but cost twice as much. If you are going to be keeping the bike it's worth the effort required to find one (see our website for how to put in an oversize battery if you want but the noted PC680 battery works well and is a direct replacement - slightly smaller then the OEM battery but still stronger).

I've attached a great .pdf that can help with your electrical system woes.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

Good note.

I would add that somethimes batteries can have 12,5 and over but, **** they will not crank anything above scooter!

 

[SpecOps13]

Very good information Gentlemen... I'm still having intermittent electrical problems with my 89.. works fine one day and the next , the Gauges won't come on or the fuel pump runs continuously.. I'll look all of this over to see if I can get any more clues to my own problem Max.... The standard battery will charge to over 13 v but drops back to a nominal 12.4 v.

 

[dtoebaert-5311]

My 93vmax battery was measure 12.3V but only I can heard is izzzz from the coil...the battery was less than a year..
All the battery and cable are stock.FYI I just switch back with original Signal Light from the previous LED light.is this cause the problem?
Should I need to change the thicker ground cable?or Larger battery?

In my experience the starting problem is: you try with a weak battery, it doesn't work, you keep trying, you damage the starter clutch, finally you put in a new battery, but since now your starter clutch is damaged it still is problematic to start, you start overhauling the whole electrical system...and so on and so on until after some months you replace the starter clutch...
Only way to avoid this is DON'T keep trying, put in a new battery immediately, while the bike's open, make some battery extensions and keep your battery tended ALWAYS
:doh:Just my experience:doh:

 

[davesax36]

Screw it.... I'm going out for a new battery. I just got back to the bike (and wife) last night. I got up this morning to try to re-synch my carbs on the bench before I tried to start it agian. It started fine last time I was in town, but then it quit starting. I think I may have sulfated my battery at some point, but it WAS working so I left it.

My cranking voltage with the little battery tender plugged in drops to 10.9 immediately, but by the second or third crank is at 11.6-8. I'm thinking this thing might be toast, and I really don't feel like replacing another starter clutch. I'll post results when I get back. Last time I did this, I bought a new battery, brought it home, and it started right away with my old battery WTH?!?!?

We'll see what happens. I'm gonna take this one with me to load test it, as that could be the problem, I guess.

Right front plug seems to be the only one that's fouling.

 

[davesax36]

Battery tested at the shop... Shows 10 volts all the way to 400 cca. Back to the drawing board.

 

[Traumahawk]

On mine....10 volts isnt enough to start the bike. Someone on here had posted before that at 10 volts the TCI wouldnt kick in?

Mine has to be atleast 11 volts.

 

[Traumahawk]

On mine....10 volts isnt enough to start the bike. Someone on here had posted before that at 10 volts the TCI wouldnt kick in?

Mine has to be atleast 11 volts.

 

[davesax36]

11.7 cranking... Still got nothing. I'm gonna let it sit for a bit to see if a time-out will trick it into starting. I'll read and resurrect some other threads. So frustrated right now.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Did you mess with the HT leads? check continuity to the plugs and make sure the order of the coils is being respected

 

[davesax36]

Eric called me and it started....WTH!? I tho something is going on with #4,but I'll fiddle with that tomorrow.

 

[Traumahawk]

Eric called me and it started....WTH!? I tho something is going on with #4,but I'll fiddle with that tomorrow.

LOL....I'm glad that I could help my friend.