1993 Yamaha VMAX Recovery Project

[shawn_t]

I've been messaging in a few other threads, but I thought that I would start a thread to document my attempt to get my 1993 VMAX running again after over 11 years in storage.

VIN: JYA2LTN03PA004151

This is a Canadian model VMAX, covered and stored in a garage just before my son was born and he just turned 11. I live in Hawaii so it was stored in warm weather for the whole time.

What I have done so far:

1. Ensured that the cylinders aren't siezed
2. Replaced the spark plugs and ensured that I have spark
3. Removed the gas tank which is completely rusted out and will need to be replaced
4. Replaced the fuel filter (although it seems to fit a little too loose in the fuel line)
5. Pulled off the fuel pump and disassembled as it didn't seem to be pumping any gas into the carbs

There has been a strong varnish smell with every fuel system step I've taken and therefore, here is what I plan to do now to get it started:

1. Purchase a new fuel tank and line with Red Kote or KBS 3 step --- DONE (shipped 07/12/2016)
2. Purchase a new battery --- DONE (arriving 07/12/2016)
3. Order a new fuel filter that fits properly --- DONE (arriving 07/14/2016)
4. Replace a bunch of the fuel hoses as they are probably all lined with varnish --- Many of the existing ones look to be in good shape and cleaning thoroughly with Simple Green seems effective
5. Order a replacement fuel pump as they are cheap on eBay and are rumored to perform better than the OEM part --- DONE (arriving 07/14/2016)
6. Pull carbs and clean out as the varnish has probably gummed up all the jets --- IN PROGRESS
7. Change coolant --- AWAITING O-RING
8. Change oil and install new oil filter (order a few oil filters) --- AWAITING FUEL FILTER

Obviously, once I get it started, there will be a lot more to do to get it road worthy!!! Here is a list so far:

• Replace brake fluids and rebuild if necessary
• Replace clutch fluid and rebuild (probably necessary)
• Replace final drive gear oil --- DONE
• Replace fork oil
• Perform bump test on steering head bearings
• Check torque on the swing arm pivots
• New tires
• Valves

Please let me know if you think this is a good plan or if there is anything else I should add to the list.

 

[shawn_t]

Fuel Pump
When I pulled the fuel pump and disassembled, there was a waft of varnish as soon as I opened it up so I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner in there and cleaned it all out with some cotton swabs. After reassembling, I did feel a little bit of suction when I ran it without the fuel line to the carbs attached, but once I attached that hose it reverted back to the same experience as witnessed in the video I made last night. No suction.

I will remove the pump again tonight and test it with water, but I'm probably just going to buy a new fuel pump off eBay anyway. If the current fuel pump does work with water than I'm guessing that either the hose or the carbs are so gummed up with varnish that it can't pump. Does this make sense?

 

[Fire-medic]

A new fuel tank should be OK by itself, no coating. Are you thinking doing a coating might forestall any future issues? I think you have a good plan. I would add removing all fluids from brakes and clutch system, and flush w/new fluid, then determine if you need rebuilds. Probably not a bad idea to replace the fork oil, do the 'bump test' for the steering head bearings, and check the torque on the swingarm pivots.

I don't think you mentioned tires/valves, perhaps that's a 'given?' Until you get it running OK, I suppose you don't really need anything other than 'rim-protectors,' but don't even try running on 12 year-old tires.

 

[shawn_t]

Fuel Hoses
Given that varnish seems to be in every part of the fuel system, I think I should replace as many of the fuel hoses as I can.

1. Is it possible to buy bulk fuel hose and cut them to size myself or should I order OEM parts?
2. What are the sizes of the fuel line I should get? Is it 3/8" or 5/16"?
3. What is the size of the fuel line heading out of the fuel pump to the carb? Is that 1/4"
4. Is there a special type of fuel line I should buy to protect from ethanol in today's gasoline? Neoprene?

I have attached a picture of the outgoing fuel hose from the fuel pump to the carb. It seems to have a braiding on the outside so perhaps I should buy the OEM part for this one?

Thanks

 

[shawn_t]

A new fuel tank should be OK by itself, no coating. Are you thinking doing a coating might forestall any future issues? I think you have a good plan. I would add removing all fluids from brakes and clutch system, and flush w/new fluid, then determine if you need rebuilds. Probably not a bad idea to replace the fork oil, do the 'bump test' for the steering head bearings, and check the torque on the swingarm pivots.

I don't think you mentioned tires/valves, perhaps that's a 'given?' Until you get it running OK, I suppose you don't really need anything other than 'rim-protectors,' but don't even try running on 12 year-old tires.

Some other members have strongly recommended to coat a new tank because of the ethanol in today's gasoline. They say the original tank will eventually have rust issues because of the ethanol.

I will definitely be replacing the brake and clutch fluids and rebuild if necessary. The clutch reservoir is completely empty so that probably needs a rebuild for sure. Right now I am just trying to see if I can get it started and then invest more time (and money) into getting it road worthy.

Thank you for your suggestion regarding the fork oil, bump test and swingarm pivots. I will definitely do that after I get is started as well.

 

[blaxmax]

Fuel Pump
When I pulled the fuel pump and disassembled, there was a waft of varnish as soon as I opened it up so I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner in there and cleaned it all out with some cotton swabs. After reassembling, I did feel a little bit of suction when I ran it without the fuel line to the carbs attached, but once I attached that hose it reverted back to the same experience as witnessed in the video I made last night. No suction.

I will remove the pump again tonight and test it with water, but I'm probably just going to buy a new fuel pump off eBay anyway. If the current fuel pump does work with water than I'm guessing that either the hose or the carbs are so gummed up with varnish that it can't pump. Does this make sense?

I have 2 of these with lifetime guarantee and you can take them apart and put your stock bracket on them. Also it does not make sense that the carbs being gummed up would affect the fuel pump as it pumps to the carbs. Also not advisable to spray carb cleaner through the fuel pump as there are rubber grommets and diaphragms that will shrink.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Fuel-Pu...ash=item3cfe5e6645:g:rh8AAOSwT6pVo0Sj&vxp=mtr

 

[blaxmax]

Fuel Hoses
Given that varnish seems to be in every part of the fuel system, I think I should replace as many of the fuel hoses as I can.

1. Is it possible to buy bulk fuel hose and cut them to size myself or should I order OEM parts?
2. What are the sizes of the fuel line I should get? Is it 3/8" or 5/16"?
3. What is the size of the fuel line heading out of the fuel pump to the carb? Is that 1/4"
4. Is there a special type of fuel line I should buy to protect from ethanol in today's gasoline? Neoprene?

I have attached a picture of the outgoing fuel hose from the fuel pump to the carb. It seems to have a braiding on the outside so perhaps I should buy the OEM part for this one?

Thanks

Good idea to replace all hoses and I put 2 filters between the tank and fuel pump.5/16 and 3/8 will work. You do not have to have steel braided hose-that was from the factory.

 

[shawn_t]

I made some progress this weekend and I'll update the top message with what is DONE.

Pulled the carbs without much problem, but trying to disassemble the carbs is proving difficult. I've opted to split the carbs into two pairs as recommended in the Haynes manual, but removing the phillips screws holding the joining brackets on is proving quite difficult so I'm going to have to keep trying on those...

Most of the screws on the end covers I've managed to loosen, but there are a few stubborn ones that I will have to fiddle with for a while before I get them to break. I'm trying to be careful not to strip them, but I think I will replace with the allen head bolts that have been suggested on the forum anyway.

Wish me luck!

 

[Fire-medic]

I like straight jaw Vise Grips for the stubborn screws, 10" size is just right. Someone will tell you to get a JIS-spec "Phillips" screwdriver for those. Some people recommend using valve lapping compound on the screwdriver tip to provide some extra friction.

I've used an impact driver to loosen the screws, and a new tip that fits tightly. Be very careful when you use an impact driver, the metal the carb bodies are made from is not strong! You could end up w/a cracked body.

I've also used a Dremel tool abrasive disc to cut a slot in the screw head and shaped it to get a tight fit, and then use a slotted screwdriver to break the screw loose if the X becomes buggered. You could also use a small straight chisel to break the screw loose after using the Dremel to get a 'purchase point' to start your CCW driving.

Yes to the allen screw replacements.

 

[D-Max2012]

When I had to pull my carbs for the 1st time, they were a bitch to get off, because the boots lost its flexibility. They were cracked anyway.. I had to use the rubber coated handle of my largest ratchet to pry them up, using the side frame as a lever. Once I put new boots on, the carbs were way easier to assemble and disassemble.

 

[shawn_t]

I also had a hard time removing the carbs because of the boots because they were dried out and cracked. I will probably be replacing the boots as well. Add another $80 to the cost of this project

 

[adambweird]

The first time i ever took my carbs apart i had to drill a bunch of the screw heads to get stuff apart. Havent had a problem since, lol.

 

[shawn_t]

Thanks you for all your suggestions. I was able to get the carburetors separated into pairs last night. The secret for me was a good #3 JIS phillips screwdriver with a long handle and some 9" locking needle nose pliers...they didn't have the vice grip brand so I bought Milwaukee and they worked really well on the stubborn end cover and float bowl screws. I already had a pretty good #2 JIS phillips screwdriver that I used on the end cover and float bowl screws.

The #3 screws holding the two side brackets on were the real problem for me, but I was just patient and tapped the screwdriver with a hammer a bit to seat the tip in the screw and get a good bite. Then I wrapped a shop rag around the handle of the screwdriver to get a really good grip (I have big hands) and tried to turn. As soon as I felt any slippage, I went back to the first step and tapped with a hammer a little more to seat the screwdriver. Eventually, the screw would pop and break lose.

I'll start disassembling and cleaning each carb tonight so hopefully the removal of the jets is going to go a little smoother.

 

[THMAX98]

Boy you make my mission sound easy putting THMAX back on the road after 3 years (where did that time go)same problems, rusty tank but recoverable,the fuel gauge sensor is also rusty do you know if it would be cleanable and not rust any more?also gunked up carbs cant get 2 of the pilot jets out tho so will have to clean as much as i can and cross fingers