1998 Vmax with Low Miles

[SirHuthALot]

Hi All

I'm looking at buying a vmax for sale near me. It's a 1998 and looks like its in excellent shape. Guy says it has always been garaged. Only 8,5xx miles. Anything I should be worried about? I'm afraid it will start up and run great, only to have a bunch of problems once I really start riding it. I'll post the craigslist add below.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,

B

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/mcy/5246819501.html

 

[Lotsokids]

Looks good, and seems like a good deal if everything mentioned in the ad is true. Take a look at it, but always go in with eyes wide open. When you arrive, see if the engine is warm. This is an indicator that the owner could have spent a long time getting it started and warming it up before you arrive. And the miles... anyone can disconnect the speedometer cable. But it could be true. Look for any signs of maintenance - scuffed bolt heads or new sealant squeezed out of case parts or covers.

The V-Max is a solid bike and lasts for a LONG, LONG time. I've owned 3 and punished each of them on the road with my aggressive riding style. I've had very minor issues, never major mechanical problems.

 

[MaxMidnight]

As well as the above ask to see any receipts and have a dekko at the footrests to see how worn they are.
Probably the most prudent step is to take someone who knows bikes with you that will keep your feet on the ground and give you a slap before you agree to buy a dog.

 

[Fire-medic]

If he won't let you ride it, have him demonstrate that it won't jump out of 2nd gear when he opens the throttle hard, and gets it to above 7 grand on the tach. If it's gonna jump out of gear, it will w/that. Don't let him shift from 1st to 3rd, bypassing 2nd. Fixing that is a $2K+ dealer or shop item, most likely, but you can do it yourself if you have good mechanical skills, and a place to work on a torn-down engine. There are other maintenance things you should consider doing if you have the engine out of the frame and torn-down, the oil o-ring fix, shift segment replacement, shift drum replacement, shift forks replacement, undercutting the gear engagement dogs, replacement of gears as needed to compensate for wear, though at 8K miles, you shouldn't have to face these issues, unless he ran it a 1/4 mile at a time. Look into the rear fender underside, and on the back of the license plate and see if there's an accumulation of rubber, a sure sign of a hard life.

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

As well as the above ask to see any receipts and have a dekko at the footrests to see how worn they are.
Probably the most prudent step is to take someone who knows bikes with you that will keep your feet on the ground and give you a slap before you agree to buy a dog.

Agreed. I always take someone with me when looking at buying a bike. 2 sets of eyes are a good thing, and what one misses, the other might see.

 

[SirHuthALot]

Thanks for the advice guys. I ended up buying it. 2 weeks later after he took it down and then reposted it. Ended up paying $2800. Was going to give him $300 but the tires were old. Plenty of tread but I'm pretty sure they were put on in 99. Rode it home and holy ****! Amazing bike. Needs a windscreen though. Any idea where I could get one?

Cheers,

B

 

[davesax36]

Are you looking for the mini flyscreen or a more touring height windshield. I have both, and would part with one or both. My flyscreen (short one) is slightly tinted, and my taller one is the national cycles one. It has a scratch in it from where I was working on a stuck mounting bolt, but it's not in your field of view when riding.

 

[Fire-medic]

Santa Cruz Rider, welcome to the wonderful world of VMax-dom. I suggest you change the brake & clutch fluids immediately, unless they are clear "like water." The flush will help to remove moisture which can corrode your parts, and also any particulate matter which will become sludge in the system and can eventually plug-solid a line, which could lock-on your brakes, or make it impossible to work the clutch.

Changing the front fork fluid should also be a maintenance thing. It's not uncommon for a bike to have leaky fork seals, oil film on the lower part of the fork(s), the slider. Replace the seals before changing the oil if you need replacement. Changing fluid on a leaking fork seal is a waste of time. The hardest part is to break-free the hex screw to disassemble the downtube from the slider tube, the screw is accessed thru a hole in the bottom of the slider after removing the front axle. It's a hex allen wrench fitting, and an air tool is best to loosen it. Do NOT remove the fork cap before disassembly! You need the fork cap to hold pressure on the damper rod that the allen screw inserts-into.

Your brake pads probably don't yet need replacement, but going to front HH-rated pads will increase your braking abilities, and is probably one of the cheapest things you can do. Check for the groove down the center of the pads, if you don't see a groove, or it's very shallow, barely there, time for replacement.

Since the Bay Area weather can be cold and wet, w/the fog, I think you would probably be happier w/the larger windscreen. Be aware that it does affect handling at highly-illegal speeds, if you are 'hell-on-wheels,' get the smaller flyscreen 1st. It won't be very expensive, used. New they're about $140 (GIVI) but the OEM Yamaha part is probably obsolete from the dealer, though they're a frequent item on here or ebay. I'd take a look at davesax36's offer.

 

[SirHuthALot]

Thx! I'll prob do all the fluids next weekend. They look pretty good, but I plan on keeping this bike for a long time and I'd rather start fresh. The back tire has about 95% tread, but was put on in 08. It seams fine, (garaged its whole life) but I'll prob take it to the shop and have them check it for me. Front tire is the original. That will get done on monday haha.

I am looking for the little flyscreen. It is the only one that looks good on the max in my opinion. Could you send me pictures of yours Davesax? How much do you want for it? They're like $140 new....