a question.

[effingidiot]

so if am in the middle of back and beyond and my headlight fails,will my vmax not start.

 

[Fire-medic]

Well, that depends on "what are the other circumstances?" Generally-speaking, "no." Your bike can run w/o a headlight. One good reason for keeping your stock turnsignals, is that if you lose your headlight, remove your turn signal lenses and your bare bulbs should allow you to limp home w/their white light. Also, it's unusual to lose both filaments at the same time. Just push down your bucket so your high beam isn't shining fully into the person in-front of you, coming or going, if your low beam blew.

If you have a dead short and your fuse blew, the turnsignal trick may be your only resource if you cannot locate the short, fix it, and replace the fuse and/or headlight bulb, away from the house. What the sailors refer to as a "flying-fix."

 

[effingidiot]

Well, that depends on "what are the other circumstances?" Generally-speaking, "no." Your bike can run w/o a headlight. One good reason for keeping your stock turnsignals, is that if you lose your headlight, remove your turn signal lenses and your bare bulbs should allow you to limp home w/their white light. Also, it's unusual to lose both filaments at the same time. Just push down your bucket so your high beam isn't shining fully into the person in-front of you, coming or going, if your low beam blew.

If you have a dead short and your fuse blew, the turnsignal trick may be your only resource if you cannot locate the short, fix it, and replace the fuse and/or headlight bulb, away from the house. What the sailors refer to as a "flying-fix."

Thanks for that info,only my light is out again and the blue high beam light is on,and when I press the starter everything goes out.The last time it did this I changed the bulb and that seemed to sort it.ps it' only a very cheap bulb,just a tester really until am ready for the road.I will buy a proper bulb tomorrow.That leads me back to my question.If no headlight,no starter turn over.

 

[Traumahawk]

I wonder if your started button is sticking? The headlight is supposed to go out when the start button is pushed (so that way full voltage is applied to the starter) but as the button is released, the headlight kicks back on. Pull out slightly on the starter button, and see if that helps?

 

[effingidiot]

I wonder if your started button is sticking? The headlight is supposed to go out when the start button is pushed (so that way full voltage is applied to the starter) but as the button is released, the headlight kicks back on. Pull out slightly on the starter button, and see if that helps?

cheers,i will check that.

 

[Fire-medic]

You might need to service your switches, Ninjaneer did a good writeup which I think is a 'stickie' now. Some links:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19710&highlight=switches

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=25622&highlight=switches

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=20783 clutch side switch

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=17272 throttle-side switch

And I'm throwing in his "wish list," because it's a cool way to think of mods:

+1 with the service manual. after securing one or two, then working out your handling is first in my book. this includes, not in any particular order and not limited to:

• handlebars
• front and rear suspension
  • front
    • progressive rates springs (Progressive Suspension and Racetechs are favorites in this forum)
    • cartridge emulators (Ractech and Intimators? are favorites)
    • lower
    • USDs
  • rear
    • i haven't research this mod enough yet, so i don't know the choices except that you've got Progressive Suspension's and some piggy-back ones by another manufacturer
• tires and wheels
  • if stay with stock wheels, then your limited to bias-plys.
    • Shinko Tourmasters and Metzeler ME880s are favorites here
    • You can stick a wider tire on the rear (170/80-15)
  • if you want radials then you need to change out the wheels. there are a couple paths you can take for radials:
    • keep the front stock and send your rear stock out to someone like Kosmon and widen it, or
    • dump the coin into a new set
• frame strengthening
  • solid motor mounts
  • torque bar
  • frame plates
• hmmmm what else....

next i would work out the brakes

• change out the front calipers with R1/R6 4-pots
• since your have an '85, you are able to consider hayabusa 6-pots for the front
• change out the rear caliper with a stock 4-pot
• if you change out the calipers, then you really ought to use a 14mm master cylinder (FJR1300 is the choice master, if you can find one)
• change out the rotors (Galfer seems to be a favorite, as well as the Chinese Arashis sold on ebay)
• put in some EBC HH pads
• stainless steel braided hydraulic lines

next i would work on the clutch

• DD mod, PCW HD mod, or Barnett Spring Conversion
  • if you do one of these mods, then you should consider 14mm master
• stainless steel braided hydraulic line

next the exhaust and intake

• hole mod
• full-up or slip-ons
  • if you go full up then Stage 7 or Morley Muscle intake kit
  • if slip ons, maybe those intake kit, or basic rejetting

next (maybe first) the electrical system

• battery
  • Odyssey seems to be the choice
  • Morley's got a "fat battery"
• COPs
• Dynatec 3000 ignition box
• turn signals
  • smaller ones if the lollipops aren't doing it for ya
  • LEDs to lighten the load
• tail light
  • eliminate the box with something like a CBR600's
  • LEDs to lighten the load
• R/R upgrade
• R/R to battery direct connect

Color/Finish

• Powder coat
• Chrome
• nano-scale pigment induced primer followed with a couple coats of low-friction, humidity-coupling, molecularly-stranded should shave a couple seconds of your traps (black of course)

Thanks to Greg "Ninjaneer" for his thoughts.

 

[effingidiot]

You might need to service your switches, Ninjaneer did a good writeup which I think is a 'stickie' now. Some links:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19710&highlight=switches

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=25622&highlight=switches

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=20783 clutch side switch

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=17272 throttle-side switch

And I'm throwing in his "wish list," because it's a cool way to think of mods:

+1 with the service manual. after securing one or two, then working out your handling is first in my book. this includes, not in any particular order and not limited to:

• handlebars
• front and rear suspension
  • front
    • progressive rates springs (Progressive Suspension and Racetechs are favorites in this forum)
    • cartridge emulators (Ractech and Intimators? are favorites)
    • lower
    • USDs
  • rear
    • i haven't research this mod enough yet, so i don't know the choices except that you've got Progressive Suspension's and some piggy-back ones by another manufacturer
• tires and wheels
  • if stay with stock wheels, then your limited to bias-plys.
    • Shinko Tourmasters and Metzeler ME880s are favorites here
    • You can stick a wider tire on the rear (170/80-15)
  • if you want radials then you need to change out the wheels. there are a couple paths you can take for radials:
    • keep the front stock and send your rear stock out to someone like Kosmon and widen it, or
    • dump the coin into a new set
• frame strengthening
  • solid motor mounts
  • torque bar
  • frame plates
• hmmmm what else....

next i would work out the brakes

• change out the front calipers with R1/R6 4-pots
• since your have an '85, you are able to consider hayabusa 6-pots for the front
• change out the rear caliper with a stock 4-pot
• if you change out the calipers, then you really ought to use a 14mm master cylinder (FJR1300 is the choice master, if you can find one)
• change out the rotors (Galfer seems to be a favorite, as well as the Chinese Arashis sold on ebay)
• put in some EBC HH pads
• stainless steel braided hydraulic lines

next i would work on the clutch

• DD mod, PCW HD mod, or Barnett Spring Conversion
  • if you do one of these mods, then you should consider 14mm master
• stainless steel braided hydraulic line

next the exhaust and intake

• hole mod
• full-up or slip-ons
  • if you go full up then Stage 7 or Morley Muscle intake kit
  • if slip ons, maybe those intake kit, or basic rejetting

next (maybe first) the electrical system

• battery
  • Odyssey seems to be the choice
  • Morley's got a "fat battery"
• COPs
• Dynatec 3000 ignition box
• turn signals
  • smaller ones if the lollipops aren't doing it for ya
  • LEDs to lighten the load
• tail light
  • eliminate the box with something like a CBR600's
  • LEDs to lighten the load
• R/R upgrade
• R/R to battery direct connect

Color/Finish

• Powder coat
• Chrome
• nano-scale pigment induced primer followed with a couple coats of low-friction, humidity-coupling, molecularly-stranded should shave a couple seconds of your traps (black of course)

Thanks to Greg "Ninjaneer" for his thoughts.

Great,cheers.