About Burnouts with a Vmax

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Cybergrizzly

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Not that I am desperate to do a burnout with my '98 Vmax as I still have a lot of thread in my rear tire, but the question is basically if there may be the possibility of damaging the gears. In a regular chain drive bike, what gives at a certain break point is the chain, no fuzz. In a shaft drive bike, damage to the gears is catastrophic. I've read that the Vmax shaft drive is fabricated from high tensile materials and is almost indestructible. Vmax burnouts can be seen anywhere in the web and I haven't heard of shaft drive damages because of burnouts, at least in a Vmax.

Would appreciate comments from others. Thanks.

:biglaugh:
 
"Vmax shaft drive is fabricated from high tensile materials and is almost indestructible."

I'm not sure what they're made of, but I can testify they are NOT indestructible.....I've broken one. One too many very hard shifts into second gear did mine in. BANG! RATTLE, RATTLE, RATTLE, RATTLE - all the way to a dead stop. Fortunately for me, the replacement drive shaft wasn't too expensive, and fairly easy to get to. Now the U-joint that I broke shortly after that.............that's another story....a little more difficult to get replaced, considering it was my first time to do one.
 
If you have Not done the DD Clutch mod then I would say it is more likely that you would burn out you clutch if you did any damage.
With the DD Mod, the clutch no longer Slips and the stress gets transferred to the Middle gears and Shaft.
But if you have a fairly slippery tire, burnouts are realy very easy to do with a VMax without damaging the Bike at all.
I have done quite a few over the years running The OEM BridgeStone, OEM Dunlop and Michelin Macadam M50 Tires
without hurting my Vmax at all.
I even did a few until the Tire Popped.
I did burn up my Stock clutch while doing a Burnout with a warm Shinko Rear Tire though, so be careful if you run a Sticky rear tire.
 
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If you have Not done the DD Clutch mod then I would say it is more likely that you would burn out you clutch if you did any damage.
With the DD Mod, the clutch no longer Slips and all the stress gets transferred to the Middle gears and Shaft.
But if you have a fairly slippery tire, burnouts are reaaly very easy to do with a VMax without damaging the Bike at all.
I have done quite a few over the years running The OEM BridgeStone, OEM Dunlop and Michelin Macadam M50 Tires
without hurting my Vmax at all.
I even did a few until the Tire Popped.
I did burn up my Stock clutch while doing a Burnout with a warm Shinko Rear Tire though, so be careful if you run a Sticky rear tire.

I've done PLENTY of 1st & 2nd gear "across-the-parkinglot" burnouts over the years with no problems to the drive shaft.....as mentioned the clutch usually goes twentieth....the poor tires being first thru nineteenth :biglaugh:

But now I have done the DD clucth mod and plan to burn down the tire this Sunday for the last hoorah of the season........Stay tuned...I'll let you know how I make out......
 
^ I agree the Odds are that the Clutch will give out before the Shaft when doing Burnouts.
Mots people I know that snapped their Shafts did it while doing Wheelies or Hard Launches.
 
^ I agree the Odds are that the Clutch will give out before the Shaft when doing Burnouts.
Mots people I know that snapped their Shafts did it while doing Wheelies or Hard Launches.

I've never heard of anyone breaking a driveshaft on the launch ever, I'm sure that there might be someone out there who has but I've never heard of it... The real culprit is that 1-2 shift, that's where the shaft breaks or the u-joint, or in worst case the back of the case... I personally know 2 local guys that have blown out the back of the case and Sean has done it too and he'll be the first to tell you that happened because of a hardened driveshaft.. The stock driveshaft is the weak link and I believe it should stay that way because they are cheap and easy to change.. I do agree with a stock clutch you don't have much to worry about but if you go with a dd clutch and are speed shifting then your driveshaft will break eventually. I put an air shifter on mine early to try to minimize the damage...

Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
 
Ask tothemax93 (he just snapped a shaft recently I believe) or just about any of the guys that regularly Drag their Vmaxes.
A guy I used to ride with actually kept a spare Shaft in a backpack on his Bike because he snapped them on a regular Basis when hard launching or doing wheelies.
I personally saw at least 3 different guys Snap a Shaft at the Track and 1 Guy did it twice on the highway while I was riding with him.
And if I recall correctly they all did the DD Mod.

But in most cases you're right, as long as your Tire can Break loose and Spin you probably won't ever break a Shaft, since that Spin is relieving the Pressure/Stress.
 
Both stock shafts I've broken we're on hard, WOT 1-2 shifts after putting the DD mod in. The first one was on the very first WOT 1-2 shift I did after the DD.

As far as burnouts go I'd think that the load on the driveline, including the clutch, is quite minimal after breaking the tire loose, heck after the tire is broken loose and spinning good you can practically hold the bike from moving with just your feet without using the front brake.

As far as being hard on a chain I can see that it would be since your spinning the hell out of it without enough load on the "pull" side of the chain, causing the chain slack to whip all over the place. About like if you had it on the center stand.
 
When I read the OP, I get the impression he is talking about the final drive. I see that he mentions gears. If that is what the question is, I would say don't worry about it. Breaking the final drive is pretty rare. The most common final drive failure is the tip of the pinion gear snapping off. You hear about it happening every so often but not because of guys doing burnouts.
 
I've never run the double D clutch mod, yet managed to snap a drive shaft while shifting into 2nd gear. Same for when I broke a u-joint.

A friend of mine broke a drive shaft while riding on a bitter cold day by downshifting to let the engine slow his bike. That shaft looked like it had been reverse twisted in a machine, and the metal looked like it was crystaline.

If you look at our drive shafts closely, I think you will see they are manufactured with a twist. At least mine and my friends were. Both our replacments were manufactured that way too. It's been several years ago though.
 
Mike is right. The question was really intended to the final drive gears. Thought to have read that the material that made the gears and shaft were both equal but it may sound reasonable to think that it would be better to break the shaft before damaging the gears. From what I read here, if it is casual burnouts every now and then the only damage might be to the clutch...eventually. Which gear would be preferable for burnouts?First or Second gear? I might guess Second so not to redline the engine so fast. DD mod if you intend to drag race hard.
 
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