Aftermarker front brake and clutch replacements

[mundmc]

Hi all,

I am considering replacing my front brake and clutch master cylinders/ handles/ reservoirs, mainly because of a screwed up (pun intended) bolt that keeps the lid on the front brake reservoir (I brought this up in another thread, but affordable machine shops in Brooklyn are hard to come by, and it involves not using my max for a bit). Additionally, I'd just like a little more bling, as my current ones are scuffed up and paint is stripped off from leaked fluid. I plan to put them on when i put my steel braided brake lines and drag bars on.

From the forums, it looks like any brake assembly with a 5/8" bore (16mm) will do as long as it fits on 7/8" bars.

My questions:
1) Is it the same bore for the clutch master cylinder
2) Are there any recommendations on manufacturers that are reasonably priced? I know Exactrep sells them for $230 or so, though I was hoping to spend less so I can justify buying a 17" rear wheel one of these days. Mirror mounts are unnecessary as I'm switching to bar end mirrors.
3) Any other pointers greatly appreciated

MunDMC

 

[mundmc]

One more thing: I plan to use stock brakes on the front, unless there is a strong cost-effective argument to swap to something else (e.g. a lot of people are fans of R1 calipers it appears).

 

[Traumahawk]

One more thing: I plan to use stock brakes on the front, unless there is a strong cost-effective argument to swap to something else (e.g. a lot of people are fans of R1 calipers it appears).

I am NOT a fan of the R1 calipers, because by themselves they aren't really an upgrade.....you have to swap to the FJR masters as well.

I DO like the mid 90's FZR1000/YZF750 6 pot calipers. They are a big upgrade. You can keep the stock masters, stock length lines, and stock rotors if you wish.

The thing that a lot of people dont think of......you want brakes that will GRIP better, not brakes that clamp better. If calipers clamp too hard, your brakes lock up, and you go sliding.

 

[one2dmax]

I have done a few sportbike master conversions and of course I have a few sets of the 6 pot calipers on hand. Even have a Busa conversion available.

Sean

 

[Redbone]

I can whole heartedly vouce for the Busa 6 pot upgrade as the stockers were not working for me no matter what I did. The upgrade is well worth it!

 

[[email protected]]

Sean sells Accossato masters. Nice stuff. Pricing is on par w/ exactrep.
When I purchased, there was a promotion going on that included free galfer braided line with purchase of a master. Though, that was a few years back. I'm sure its no longer valid.

Some reading:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=14713&highlight=zx14

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19439

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=32532

 

[mundmc]

So the way I'm reading the links again (I ran into these before, but thank you) the overwhelming majority of people who upgraded their master cylinders are also upgrading their brakes. It is concerning that people switching to steel braided lines 10 to lock their front brake more, and I suppose I will investigate changing the front brakes. I'm wondering what a cost-effective way is to change my front brakes and masters while retuning the existing rotor. I have no qualm with the length/ force on the levers with the current setup. Also, I'm incredibly new at this, so the more idiot proof, the better


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[Redbone]

So the way I'm reading the links again (I ran into these before, but thank you) the overwhelming majority of people who upgraded their master cylinders are also upgrading their brakes. It is concerning that people switching to steel braided lines 10 to lock their front brake more, and I suppose I will investigate changing the front brakes. I'm wondering what a cost-effective way is to change my front brakes and masters while retuning the existing rotor. I have no qualm with the length/ force on the levers with the current setup. Also, I'm incredibly new at this, so the more idiot proof, the better


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I'm running stock m/c with SS Lines and 2004 Hayabusa 6 pot calipers along with HH pads and I get all the braking I need with a 2 finger pull. I can lock the front tire up (Very Grippy Shinko Verge 120/70ZR18) if I pull extremely hard. I can count the times I've locked the front tire on one hand which including my intentional lockups to get a feel for where the limit was. I also use adjustable levers which may help a little as well.

 

[Traumahawk]

So the way I'm reading the links again (I ran into these before, but thank you) the overwhelming majority of people who upgraded their master cylinders are also upgrading their brakes. It is concerning that people switching to steel braided lines 10 to lock their front brake more, and I suppose I will investigate changing the front brakes. I'm wondering what a cost-effective way is to change my front brakes and masters while retuning the existing rotor. I have no qualm with the length/ force on the levers with the current setup. Also, I'm incredibly new at this, so the more idiot proof, the better


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The reason why that people tend to lock their brakes more is now you have full pressure going to the caliper (the rubber lines will expand a bit......but steel braided DONT EXPAND at all). It makes the calipers more off and on.

Ive ridden some bikes that had the R1 calipers, and steel braided lines, and you had about an inch of travel in the lever until the brakes were locked.

I have the adjustable levers like Brian, and I have them set to where the brakes will slow me down, but wont lock (well only if I bring the lever all the way to the grip). I also have the shinko Verge up front.

 

[mundmc]

I read you on the lock-up due to decreased capacity of ss lines. So I guess my best question:

At under $400, same rotor, and replacing the master cylinder, what's a strong rec for front brakes/mc?

R1? Hayabusa? FZR100? For brakes?
Corresponding mc?

I HAVE to replace my mc, so I suppose I'll do the whole brake system and put radials on the back burner


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Option 1: Buy a stock replacement master cylinder or, look for a FJR 16mm brake master. I believe ABS models from around '05 had this size. You'll get an adjustable lever out of it.

This will work good with stock calipers and rotors.

If you want to upgrade calipers, you can wait for a deal to show up on ebay for some yzf 750 6 pots or 94-95 fzr1000 calipers. These calipers will work with stock rotors and lines. You can upgrade lines and rotors if you want as money permits.

You can buy a matching clutch master cylinder from a FJR. It wall have a smaller bore but will work ok.

Funny thing about brakes. People always want what they don't have. If you look at FZR forums a lot of guys there recommend ditching the 6 pots for R1 blue spots or gold spots. People here put down the R1 calipers over the 6 pots those guys are getting rid of.

Option 2: R1 calipers. You can use stock rotors. You'd need new lines though. You can use the OEM master but i'd recommend you get a 14mm master. Older FJR's (around '03) without ABS is a good source.

I've got a set of gold spots sitting around if interested

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[one2dmax]

If you have a facebook account this is our Muscle Brakes album with a lot of pictures of brake related upgrades.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/Morleys-Muscle-282702488678/photos/?tab=album&album_id=390761338678

 

[Traumahawk]

R1? Hayabusa? FZR100? For brakes?
Corresponding mc?

You have a 94....so the R1's and FZR1000 brakes fit with no adapter. The hayabusa brakes are usually put on the 85-92 bikes WITH an adapter.

Stock master with with FZR brakes.

FJR master with R1's.

 

[[email protected]]

You have a 94....so the R1's and FZR1000 brakes fit with no adapter. The hayabusa brakes are usually put on the 85-92 bikes WITH an adapter.

Stock master with with FZR brakes.

FJR master with R1's.

Need to be careful with the FJR masters. Not all are 14mm. It depends on year and ABS.

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[mundmc]

Need to be careful with the FJR masters. Not all are 14mm. It depends on year and ABS.

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To clarify, I have a 2003. In an ideal world, I'd love to do the break and clutch mc's first, using my oem brakes, then add new brakes at a later date, unless there is a strong rec to replace the whole shebam.

And again, everybody's responses are really appreciated. I love being able to poll the gurus.


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[one2dmax]

I have not found the need to change the stock masters unless they were either worn and could not be rebuilt or simply as a personal choice to upgrade for cosmetic reasons.

As Eric mentioned the 6 piston FZR1000/YZF750 calipers are a direct bolt on. The R1 are a direct bolt on as well though the line location will leave a little excess line and poor mounting angle (still works fine). The increased volume required for the 6 Piston will give a more progressive feel with more travel between starting to brake and locking up the front end.

I do have a busa conversion available for the later model 93-07 front ends but it also requires a larger 320mm rotor and longer brake lines (we sell and Stock Galfer stuff). The braking leverage is increased to the point that you can even run a single caliper/line/rotor which removes some rotational mass for quicker steering (and less overall weight too). The single master gives a more similar feel to the stock since you halved the volume of the dual 6 piston type conversion.

Either way the Galfer lines are an improvement as are a better brake pad set. This can all be done a part at a time (except the busa conversion).

I've got all the above mentioned stuff on hand but of course places like ebay would be cheaper (I am the only one that has the adapter though for the busa caliper).