When I went to replace the fuel line I noticed that it had sprung the leak at a point where it was crimped.
By that I assume you mean the bend was excessive, and the interior diameter of the hose became a narrow-oval at the bend, instead of an undistorted 'O' as it should be, for maximum flow.
That excessive bend causes the hose to distort, and to create stress-points where it bends more-than it's designed to. Over time, the stress-points coupled with the engine vibration, heat cycles, and other dynamic factors, one of which could be excessive fuel pump pressure, causes premature failure. Replacing the hose annually is not the best solution, because if the hose develops a failure during that riding season, you could end up with the fuel pump hosing-down your hot engine & exhausts with copious amounts of flammable liquid. Do you wear Nomex underwear?
I suggest using a routing which eliminates the stress-points, returning to the OEM hose (molded rubber gas hoses like the T-hose feeding the carburetors can last decades, and aren't expensive, buy them while they're still available) or using some other hose which prevents the inner-diameter distortion of-which you speak (ever seen the nylon thread-reinforced clear gas line?) or some other way to eliminate the problem.
I've used 1/4", 5/16", or 3/8" steel brake hose, cut & bent on a tube-bender, to make connections on cars and trucks for gasoline delivery. I suggest using fuel-injection clamps instead of perforated hose clamps such as you'd use on a water hose from the engine block to the radiator. They
don't have sharp-edged slots which over time, cut-into the hose rubber.
I think 7-8 PSI is too much pressure for a bike like ours, a max of
half of that value would be much-better suited to be controlled by the carburetor float needle & seat. Again, the last thing you need is gasoline spraying all-over the bike and the rider/passenger.