Air cutoff valves

[redneksoldier]

Rebuilding some completely shot carbs. All of the air cutoff diaphragms were turned into black goo that was nearly impossible to get out. Real question is: Anyone know where to get them for a decent price? Little bastages are not cheap. Found some on ebay for 19 apiece, but unsure of brand or quality. Has anyone tried these or any other aftermarket ones?

 

[Rand-5107]

I was wondering the same thing. Hopefully one of the guys here that really knows will share. Good luck with your rebuild.

 

[KJShover]

If Sean, Danny, or Kyle can't hook you up for less $, here is a place that has them for $17
http://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_kit_list_model.php?make=Yamaha&model=VMX1200

 

[dannymax]

When I run into the gooey cut-off valve diaphrams I price both OEM and the Carb Kit Capital ones KJ posted and send the info to the customer for a final decision.

I'm always a big fan of going OEM but they are more costly, no doubt about that. Sean can price them for you.

I have a few of the Carb Kit Capital ones out there but haven't rec'd. any feedback as to how they hold up.....ok, I guess.

 

[redneksoldier]

I had forgotten about carbkitcapital.com. Thanks for that, KJShover.

Danny, I guess if there was a real problem with the aftermarket ones, I'm sure someone would have let you know about it right away. As far as longevity is concerned, I guess we will see.

 

[redneksoldier]

Looks like I won't be trying those. They are sold out.

 

[sdt354]

Don't forget Sean, Dannymax ,Kyle and Mark, they are guys you want to know, along with 6976 or so others here.They will help you out.
This place below has them for about $30 each, not sure what OEM price is. Save the linc anyway, lots of stuff on there. I get my jetts from them all the time and have good dealings with them. I'm learning, ask for a discount! It works sometimes.(I just got one from a Jeep dealer by asking, still can't believe it) Mention you are part of a VERY large motorcycle organization all with the same bikes.

VMF,VMOA, you must of herd of us?

Welcome to the best VMAX forum on the Net.
http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/fuel_system_parts/misc_carb_parts.html#Air

Steve-o

 

[sdt354]

Like has already been said, OEM is usually the best way to go. Many of us learned the hard way. Only price is the deterring factor. I went with aftermarket diaphrams and put about 10k on them so far, no probs. But, when $320 or so is in my pocket I'll buy the Mikuni slides and put them in. That's how I feel about OEM gaskets and rubber parts. I'll exclude the seat though.imho
Steve-o

Rebuilding some completely shot carbs. All of the air cutoff diaphragms were turned into black goo that was nearly impossible to get out. Real question is: Anyone know where to get them for a decent price? Little bastages are not cheap. Found some on ebay for 19 apiece, but unsure of brand or quality. Has anyone tried these or any other aftermarket ones?

 

[jfeagins]

Those will turn to mush when someone sprays too much carb cleaner down the wrong holes when trying to do the shotgun proceedure. Don't ask me how I know this.

I think OEM one's I bought were over $40 a piece - back when....

 

[redneksoldier]

Thanks for that link, steve-0. Good website, indeed. I hadn't seen that one before. Definitely cheaper than Yamaha on those parts. Sent an email to Sean to see what he can drum up. Just ordered a a/f mixture screw thread tap from him yesterday, so maybe he can just ship it all together if he hasn't sent the tap already.

 

[redneksoldier]

So, I ended up using the cheapo replacements that I got from ebay for $17 apiece. Luckily when they came in, i saw that they were actually K&L parts. While I don't usually use aftermarket carb parts or suggest anyone else do it either, if you have to, K&L is usually pretty good. A quick inspection with a micrometer showed that they were identical to oem measurements. However, these actually have the rubber diaphragms on them instead of the rubber coated mesh like the stock ones. Only time will tell how well the rubber ones will hold up. At any rate, my max is on the road and I am one very happy rider.

 

[KJShover]

:thumbs up:

 

[sdt354]

Thanks for that link, steve-0. Good website, indeed. I hadn't seen that one before. Definitely cheaper than Yamaha on those parts. Sent an email to Sean to see what he can drum up. Just ordered a a/f mixture screw thread tap from him yesterday, so maybe he can just ship it all together if he hasn't sent the tap already.

What size tap is that? Thanks
Steve-o

 

[redneksoldier]

sorry for taking so long to reply. It's a m6x.5 thread. Sean sells them for $10 or they can be sourced from certain tool stores that carry odd stuff for around the same price. The one that sean sells may have to be modified in order to work. I ground the tip off of it to be sure that it would reach all the way to the bottom of the threads. You may not have to do this, but i did it anyway just to be sure. If you could get a bottoming tap, it would work better. Good Luck!

 

[sdt354]

sorry for taking so long to reply. It's a m6x.5 thread. Sean sells them for $10 or they can be sourced from certain tool stores that carry odd stuff for around the same price. The one that sean sells may have to be modified in order to work. I ground the tip off of it to be sure that it would reach all the way to the bottom of the threads. You may not have to do this, but i did it anyway just to be sure. If you could get a bottoming tap, it would work better. Good Luck!

A big thanks to you. Sometimes I have to make a bottoming tap. I usually notch them with a file, snap off the taper then grind them flat. This does make for a useless starting tap though, and sounds crude I know. But,You do what you have to do. Bottom taps are usually mail order only and when I need one, it's now.
Steve

 

[redneksoldier]

Luckily I didn't have to take that much off of it. The tap actually had cone-shaped end to it before the cutting edge or the lead threads even started. Hadn't seen one like that before, but a few seconds on the grinder fixed it right up.