Air / Fuel ratio gauge. Tune carb A/F?

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Worthless Chinese junk, just a narrowband, description doesn't even tell you anything about it either.

Wouldn't touch it with a shitty mop.

But yes, a good WideBand sensor can be very helpful for tuning.. Not a must tho'
 
Almost any wideband with a Bosh sensor should do the job. Just forget about the narrow band.

You need the gauge and sensor.

Innovate have pretty good stuff too.

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i am considering now that i am closed finishing my bike to install a A/F gauge. i have already my new Marks Headers in a exhaust shop to prepare me in each header an socket so my mechanic tune each cylinder . i am considering installing a permanent senson so i can have an idea where i am with A/F. if your bike is stock as Rusty said it is not a must to do. But my opinion is , if your bike is modded it will be helpfull knowing where you stand with your A/F ratio
 
Thanks guys... How do you use these things.. Just stick it in the exhaust?
 
Thanks guys... How do you use these things.. Just stick it in the exhaust?

You need bungs welded in for on the move, but if doing it statically some long copper tubing works well with an adapter

-garrett
 
I've got the Innovate LC1 on mine, I welded the bung right after the collector. I think I can get a pic of it if you want, I mounted the gauge on top of my speedometer so I could see it easier while making a pass at the strip. It really helped get me going in the right direction for both tuning the carbs and the nitrous.

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I like PLX devices... There specific references on how to weld the bung, it has specific orientation and placing to be efficient... Google it
 
I still dig the analogs, don't have to study/read it like digital.
That's just me tho'

Of course I believe most have data log anyway so you can play it back too.
 
I still dig the analogs, don't have to study/read it like digital.
That's just me tho'

Of course I believe most have data log anyway so you can play it back too.

As long as I don't see 13.0 or higher up there when I'm on spray I don't sweat it too much! lol On motor I'm usually shooting for 12.8-13.3 or so, can't ever get it perfect but it does definitely help. I hate my digital tach though, want an analog for that bad...

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The closer the bung is to the exhaust port on the head the more accurate the reading will be.

The guidelines on the Bosch sensor (if I remember) on my DynoJet WBC recommends within 30" from port or so. But goes on to say anywhere you want it as long as its not in front of cats, (poor reading) and not between exhaust port and a turbo. (Overheating)
And anywhere between 3:00-9:00 with a 10 degree upward tilt minimum.

I think there good to about 850 f

In any case it needs to be after the collectors so it can read multiple cylinders so your options on a motorcycle are limited anyhow.
 
The guidelines on the Bosch sensor (if I remember) on my DynoJet WBC recommends within 30" from port or so. But goes on to say anywhere you want it as long as its not in front of cats, (poor reading) and not between exhaust port and a turbo. (Overheating)
And anywhere between 3:00-9:00 with a 10 degree upward tilt minimum.

I think there good to about 850 f

In any case it needs to be after the collectors so it can read multiple cylinders so your options on a motorcycle are limited anyhow.

Very true. For tuning purposes you would really need a sensor on each cylinder before the collector, so that each carb could be tuned independently. But that would be awfully difficult with the amount of space available..

But for after the collector would be fine just as a warning device if the A/F becomes dangerously lean
 
Very true. For tuning purposes you would really need a sensor on each cylinder before the collector, so that each carb could be tuned independently. But that would be awfully difficult with the amount of space available..

But for after the collector would be fine just as a warning device if the A/F becomes dangerously lean

You'd use egt probes for that but with vboost it becomes more complicated. A wideband is a good compromise and way cheaper and gets you going in the right direction. Unless your walking the line on your tune and have an extreme temperature change you would never have to worry about going dangerously lean anyway.

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Even the Tuner Supras pushing 40+ psi of boost and 1000+ Rwhp usually only run one sensor. Or two as a backup to the first, but not multiples as in one per cylinder.
The super high HP V8, V6 cars I've seen at Dyno days usually only run it one one bank of cylinders as well.
Gotta trust your tuning, all things being equal what works for one cylinder works for all unless you've got bigger problems.
 
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