Anyone pretty proficient with 1st Gen Carbs in the Dalls/Ftw area?

[triple1050]

Hi guys, like the post title says, does anyone know of an individual or outfit in the Dallas/Fort Worth area that can tune my bike, I have had it for a month or so, figured out a bunch of little issues with it but I need someone experienced to look at it, If I had the time or the patience I'm sure I could do it myself but since I have neither and want to avoid taking it to the Yammie dealer I was hoping someone around could help. My next step would be to pull them and send them to Danny but I'd be missing out on serious riding time if I did that besides, I'm pretty sure adjustment is all I need, PO says that the carbs were went over a few years ago

Im pretty sure all my ills can be fixed by someone who knows what they are doing in a minimal amount of time as they don't seem to be major problems.

in a nutshell
Low speed is fine ,Midrange is soft, WOT pulls like a gorilla, surges and rough at steady state highway cruise...Definitely gets worse as it warms up

Dynojet stage 7
Kerker 4 into 1
K&N pods

I did find the problem that was causing serious popping on decel...the carb boots were very loose and not sealing very well... seems to run alot better after I fixed that


What Im really interested in is not necessarily MAX power but I want t he whole package I just want it to run good consistently...which is not happening now


Thanks all

 

[Traumahawk]

Well with it getting worse as it warms up....that tells me that your too rich. What clip are the needles at? Most people have good luck 2 clips from the blunt end.

 

[triple1050]

I have that info at home, The PO documented it for me, i want to say he was at the 4th clip ill have to dblcheck that

 

[Traumahawk]

Ok......let us know what you find. It probably is the 4th clip. Thats dynojets recommendations from the factory...but most run better on the 2nd.

 

[triple1050]

Ill check it out, is it pretty easy to get at? Looks like you just take the diaphragm cover off and there is the needle correct?


Thanks.....guess I better order the Carb Sync tool

 

[Traumahawk]

Yep....not hard at all....there is the diaphragm, and then a white plastic screw....and the needle and assorted hardware underneath. Not hard at all. Taking your time, your looking at 15 to 30 minutes worth of work.

This link will show you how to get the diaphragms out http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm

, then you will look down, and take the screw out, and then take the needle and hardware out. Then you move the clip on the needle closer to the blunt end of the needle, and then put everything back together. The white "doughnut" on the end will have a little nipple on it, and when you put everything back together, you will rotate the needle until the little nipple seats its self. After that, put everything back together.

If you want.....I am about 2 maybe 2.5 hrs away...I can always ride down, and help with this? I'm still at work for the next week, but am free after that.

Depending on if you have V-boost still intact or not, denotes what carb sync tool that you have to buy. You shouldn't have to resync after just changing the needles.

 

[triple1050]

Hey man thanks for the info, Ill give it a try, I'm pretty sure that is the bulk of the issue I just didnt want to be shotgunning stuff all over the bike and possibly making it worse, now that we have gotten into this discussion I remember the previous owner telling me that he thought it was a bit rich drom a needle standpoint but he liked it there because it ran cooler in Austin traffic, also with the combination of the carbs not seated correctly on the manifolds making it a bit lean I can imagine why he would have left it that way, not that i have fixed the lean condition by reseating the carb rack it is super rich now (My theory) i'm looking forward to seeing this fix the problem.


Thanks for the offer to come down and help, I don't want to inconvenience anyone unless it is absolutely necessary, I really appreciate the info and will do this right away and see how it turns out and let you know. if you ever are down this way, Ill buy you a beer or beverage of your choice

 

[Traumahawk]

Cool....your on, and holler if you need any help.

 

[SlowBox]

I'm close as well, in Wichita Falls. I plan to ride to dfw here in the near future, so I'll hit you up before I head out and see if you've gotten this fixed.

 

[triple1050]

Excellent! Hit me up either way!

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[davesax36]

I'm in Fort Worth and can come over, too. I have a Morgan carbtune as well that you're welcome to use, but probably won't need. It's fun to do anyway.

 

[rspauldi1]

I live in the same town as you triple150 and I have a couple different sync tools. Changing the needle position is a piece of cake.

 

[triple1050]

I live in the same town as you triple150 and I have a couple different sync tools. Changing the needle position is a piece of cake.

Get out of town!.... small world I may just take you up on that someday..I haven't seen any other VMAXES running around since I got mine

Im near Morriss and 3040

I'm going to try to look at my needles today and see where they are, my concern is that they are where they should be (2nd from blunt end) and the issue lies somewhere else

 

[rspauldi1]

the world just got smaller. I live near morriss and college. I will be available after 5, mobile #214-315-4370.
one question I have for the other members. I have the motion pro sync pro, will this work with the stage 1&7 carb kits? Is there anything different with the process of synching carbs for a stage 1 vs stage 7? I am not a newb when it comes to synching carbs but vboost is a new animal for me.
thanks, rick

 

[Traumahawk]

The way that I understand it....it all depends on whats been done with the Vboost. Some people will run Vboost and run it as normal, and then you just sync as normal. If the Vboost has been disconnected (unplugged under the left scoop) you have to plug it back in to sync. Some people have Vboost eliminator tubes, and then you have to have the weber sync tool.

The only difference between "stage 1" carbs, and "stage 7" carbs, is whats on the inside, and they all sync the same, except for the exceptions above.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

True

If Vboost butterflies are still in place just do whatever it takes to close them and it will synch same as any bike.

If the eliminator tubes have been installed then a normal synch tool really won't do it.

You can get damn close doing a "mechanical synch" measuring clearance between throttle plate and carb wall. Done it many times.

To do this you usually need to raise the idle screw level enough to get your measuring tool in on the master carb, then set all the other carbs to match.

Set idle back to normal when done.

I use a piece if stainless steel tie wire to measure since it slide in and out easily (after sanding any nicks off the end where you cut it)

You use it like a feeler gauge so it takes some finesse to determine if the resistance to insertion and removal is the same on each carb.

 

[triple1050]

OK I pulled one of the needles, it is in the fourth groove from the blunt end, should i go to the second or the third groove? I know each groove makes a big difference...dont want to go too far the other way

Thoughts?

 

[Traumahawk]

Well the mid range is controlled by the needles, and so you can do the 3rd clip...test drive...and then go to the 2nd groove if you need to. But as a general rule, most people use the 2nd groove. With stage 7 you also have bigger jets that stock.

 

[triple1050]

Yes thanks that is what I did...went right for the second clip...I'll let you hus know how that works out....oh yeah..it was jokingly simple to do

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[triple1050]

Well, just got it good and warm, still pretty much the same thing

Very soft between say 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, yanks your arms off when opened up, so the main should be good right?

also having a hard time getting it to idle right...wants to die...adjusted it a little helped some

I'm thinking ill set the mixture screws per the instructions I have seen around this site

i.e turning one at a time all the way in and backing it out until the engine stops stumbling and then out another 1/2 turn

What do you think?

also very weird, Traumahawk posted a picture of the different needles a few replies ago, the ones installed look closer to the ones labeled FP even though they are supposed to be the DJ stage 7 kit


ok this is an Edit, I pulled out all the parts the PO gave me, this included the package of Dynojet stuff and it looks like the actual stage 7 needles are not even on the bike...there are needles in the kit that look exactly like the picture that Trauma posted earlier...Im guessing that the needles on the bike are actually the stage 1 needles, I have read that those are crap and don't work right