Are my expectations too high?

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I had some powder coating done last year. It turned out OK. My only grief was the part had some dust or some kind of specks, buried in the coating. Not alot, just enough for me to notice and be annoyed.

I've went to a different shop this time. I had the swingarm, rear caliper, handlebar clamp, and a few spacers all coated. It was all bundled up in shrink wrap when I picked it up. I took a quick look and hit the road.

Got home, unwrapped it and was disappointed again. The handlebar clamp has dust on it. Pretty noticeable. They did TOO good of a job masking the caliper. There is a 1/4" ring around each "spot" (R1 caliper) with no coating. That was the whole reason it needed coated. This part was scratched up so I smoothed it. The swingarm is pretty nice. Very few specs but there is an area that looks like a paint run. Didn't know powder could run. I could care less about the spacers but they have issues too.

Am I being too critical? Is this to be expected from a run of the mill powder coating shop?
 
Was it cheap or did you pay well for it? with powder coating I think you get what you pay for. I do a little at home, mostly seat brackets that are rarely seen. If I wanted somthing done very nice Id go to someone that had invested in the proper equipment ,but I would expect to pay a little bit more then from joe with the oven in the shop and PCing on the side.However if you dont think you got what you paid for go talk to them, you dont know unless you try.
 
This is a full time, powder dedicated, professional shop. Its small but seemed to have the right stuff. Big oven, spray booth, blasting cabinets.
 
Some of the smaller parts we did in the past wasn't "top notch" but it wasn't too bad. The new gun he has now makes all the difference. Also, prep is a big difference. These parts really gas out so it might be bubbles more then dirt.

The places we use for the swingarms and larger parts do a very nice job most of the time. One of the guys on here looks like he does nice work too.

Sean
 
All the expensive equipment in the world won't stop what you're speaking of.

It requires some who actually gives a **** to take the time to prep things properly.

I've been around and around with paint shops over this kind of stuff, it's like the fuckers are completely blind or think their customer is a fool.

It pays to be VERY specific with those folks before the work starts, even at the cost of annoying them.
 
I'm gonna suggest that the shop needs to blow out their ovens with compressed air on a regular basis. Convection ovens are blowing air around to get even heating. Once the temp melts the coating and dust, dirt or foreign body gets blown around into that soft plastic, their is your nub of dirt. It is rare you can sand the dirt and buff it to perfection. I've already posted I've never seen an absolutely perfect piece of powder coating.
 
My Snapon tool box I had was PC and it had a flawless finish. My best friend's father builds Gold Wing trike's and all the PC he has done comes back with out any dust, dirt or runs. The equipment helps, and then you have the prep work that makes the finish come out clean. PC to a point is like getting something painted. Crappy prep in either will give a crappy finish.
 
This is a full time, powder dedicated, professional shop. Its small but seemed to have the right stuff. Big oven, spray booth, blasting cabinets.


You can't buy your way into this business. A large oven is hard to keep clean, as is any. The dc charge of 25k effects dust too. Equipment has to be attended too every time you change colors or not. I'd redo unhappy work. .I will post some pics, when I'm not cleaning. I'm sticking to small stuff and trying to give Morley type customer service. So far so good. Web sight this week goes on line. I get bike shop inquiries all the time. Everyone of them looking for cheap and perfect. Most unhappy now. It's like chrome. Cheap is a waste of money, prep is everythng.

Steve
 
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Your not wanting too much. In my small shop, I've turned out many, many pieces that were like glass. The key is cleanliness and attention to detail.
Unfortunately alot of shops rush in to make the money faster. Like they say, "Garbage in, Garbage out." Prep, and equipment maint is an important detail.

That was just using an Eastwood pro gun, their powder and an infra-red curing lamp. I just took the time to make sure everything was clean and prepped.
Where I did the spraying an cooking was immaculate and free of drafts. I'd spray, then wait a while. then finally hit it with the heat lamp.
One of the shops up here has a pressurized spray booth. No dust in that puppy.

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I had a similar experience - took my parts to a local coater, spoke to the guy and explained what I wanted doing.
All was well with the world until I got the parts back.
To be fair the the finish was OK. But as he was geared for industrial batch processing ,where I assume the odd occlusion is OK, it wasn't to the standard I hope for.

I now send my items to someone who's specializes in bike and car parts and understands the standards we are looking for.
As they are some distance away parts have to be mailed which adds to the cost but I would rather pay a bit more and get a first rate job.

To answer your question, no I don't think you are being picky, but you do get what you pay for.

I'm sure there are folk here that could recommend someone to do your work?
 
I've been disappointed too.

Was thinking of buying an old oven and powdercoat kit from Harbor Freight.

I really don't think I could do worst.

Has anyone here tried the kit from Harbor Freight?
 
Pauli, are you expecting perfect parts from an Eastwood DIY kit? I've never tried it but I would be apprehensive. Show bike perfect is one thing and neat serviceable results should be the norm. I am especially picky about taping off properly as it can cause some serious assembly headaches. Then again, I had chrome work come back with the same issues. One place in Michigan did a front wheel twice with fisheyes that were unacceptable. Of course they claim it was a base material issue and refused to make things right. Lakeshore Wheel and Tire, beware! Anyway, I've seen plenty of perfectly chromed Vmax wheels but it seems many start to peel or flake after a while. Perhaps it is the base metal but good and proper prep should make for initial high quality finish.
 
well that sucks Mike... I had a great experience with him and the price was great too. If your not happy take the pieces back to him and tell him to do them over again. i'm sure he would do whatever it takes to make you happy!
 
I've got more stuff that needs coated. I have prep work to do first. Once its ready I will take it all in and talk with him. Hopefully he is willing to work with me on it.
 
I've been disappointed too.

Was thinking of buying an old oven and powdercoat kit from Harbor Freight.

I really don't think I could do worst.

Has anyone here tried the kit from Harbor Freight?


I bought the Cazwell 50kv gun. Not much more expensive, and much better quality (apparently). You DON'T need a very expensive gun to do good work.

My experience is that PC is much easier than painting. MUCH easier.
I did a couple of little tests, and then started on my bike.
You are right, it is quite easy to get it right, and there are some good forums for info. BUT, it will still take a while to start to get the feel of what is going on.
You will also need to buy an infrared thermometer, and you need just any old compressor. (I have 2 stages step down regulators and run off a scuba tank!!) A good receiver/dryer is recommended.

I bought:
http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/hvpc.html
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Non-Cont...80679538331?pt=AU_Gadgets&hash=item4159cdde9b

Some pics of good powdercoat work:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150412013020859.381657.311716665858&type=3
 
I'm gonna suggest that the shop needs to blow out their ovens with compressed air on a regular basis. Convection ovens are blowing air around to get even heating. Once the temp melts the coating and dust, dirt or foreign body gets blown around into that soft plastic, their is your nub of dirt. It is rare you can sand the dirt and buff it to perfection. I've already posted I've never seen an absolutely perfect piece of powder coating.

Right on Pat, CLEAN is your friend. But keeping a shop spotless? I like the post from K.J. Pressurize a booth may be the only way.
The Harbor Freight gun? Ben bought one and reports from him are good.I think for do it yourselffers, HF is ok. They also refund with no problem.
Estwood? Don't xpect Moeley type service if you have a problem. Before you buy from them try calling customer service. If you get in touch with someone let me know how you did it. I got a new gun with a bad dead man switch. Wasn't worth the hassle of all the waiting. Shunted the switch. Just have to remember it's alive when plugged in, or zing :rofl_200:
. I'll put a foot switch in sometime soon.
Steve
 
Is there a big difference between powder and painting?

From a practical point of view, PC is relatively cheaper than painting. You send off a grotty component and a nice shiney one comes back
I assume that the cost differential is because less time is involved with preparation and application for PC.

In my experience it is durable and has good chip resistance. That said single coat (no clear topcoat) does seem softer than a two pack paint and can scratch and scuff quite easily.

The coatings can break down after 5 to 10 years of UV exposure.

More environmentally friendly than paint.

Unlike paint, damaged areas are difficult (impossible?)to repair satisfactorily.

Difficult to match colours.

IMHO powder coating looks thicker than paint if that makes sense? Not an issue on smaller components but not to my taste on larger ones.

The ability to flat and polish paint means that if you want a deep, mirror finish, then paint is the best option (at a a price!)

The high oven temperatures could affect some tempered aluminiums (e.g.wheels?).
 
From a practical point of view, PC is relatively cheaper than painting. You send off a grotty component and a nice shiney one comes back
I assume that the cost differential is because less time is involved with preparation and application for PC.

In my experience it is durable and has good chip resistance. That said single coat (no clear topcoat) does seem softer than a two pack paint and can scratch and scuff quite easily.

The coatings can break down after 5 to 10 years of UV exposure.

More environmentally friendly than paint.

Unlike paint, damaged areas are difficult (impossible?)to repair satisfactorily.

Difficult to match colours.

IMHO powder coating looks thicker than paint if that makes sense? Not an issue on smaller components but not to my taste on larger ones.

The ability to flat and polish paint means that if you want a deep, mirror finish, then paint is the best option (at a a price!)

The high oven temperatures could affect some tempered aluminiums (e.g.wheels?).

Thanks. Yeah I am deffently looking at it because the huge price diffrence. My main concernes would be it not holding up and I did want to apply paint to it afterwords, striping mainly.
 
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