Bad ign. or the new cop mod?

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joelyons50023

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I have been having troubles since getting her going after winter, done the cop mod and went to go on a ride and ran like crap poping backfiring the good stuff came back checked cop wiring, it was good checked plugs and they were good (cleaned anyway). So I start with the carbs shotgun 4 times, pea shooter 2, completly disassembled and cleaned throughly, seafoam, helped a bit but while crusing and at times at wot would act like completly no ign. power for a sec and then go back and do it again. completly speratic. twice has died completly had to pull over and shut it off check this over then hop on and it would start back up like nothing was wrong. could this also be the timing advancer that I have but it does this at idle also and tonight while trying to attempt to sync. left rear pipe was just barley warm and the bike ran like poo poo. Did not have my tools to check
spark. wadda you guys think? BTW what were the specs to check on the cop mine are gsxr 750 from 07 bike.
 
I have been having troubles since getting her going after winter, done the cop mod and went to go on a ride and ran like crap poping backfiring the good stuff came back checked cop wiring, it was good checked plugs and they were good (cleaned anyway). So I start with the carbs shotgun 4 times, pea shooter 2, completly disassembled and cleaned throughly, seafoam, helped a bit but while crusing and at times at wot would act like completly no ign. power for a sec and then go back and do it again. completly speratic. twice has died completly had to pull over and shut it off check this over then hop on and it would start back up like nothing was wrong. could this also be the timing advancer that I have but it does this at idle also and tonight while trying to attempt to sync. left rear pipe was just barley warm and the bike ran like poo poo. Did not have my tools to check
spark. wadda you guys think? BTW what were the specs to check on the cop mine are gsxr 750 from 07 bike.

Given the suddenness and completeness of the failure, it sounds electrical but I doubt it is the Coil Sticks.

Do you have spark on all four sticks/plugs?

Check by moving the coil stick from the suspect left rear and see if the problem moves with the stick.

The fact that the engine dies completely suggests you have a bad electrical connection somewhere. Does it only affect the engine or are your lights dying as well when the bike 'dies'.

If you still have lights, check power and grounds to the motor, fuses etc.

Are your pick-up coils within spec because if you eliminate the other stuff it gets down to pick-up coils or TCI faults.

Can't comment on the advance changes you have made. No info provided.
 
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What year is your vmax? I may have a spare ignition I can send you to test with.
 
Agree with Gleno..Just had a similar prob with my car..was a loose connection..check for this and exposed wires..sounds like your grounding out somewhere
 
I had the almost exact problems you have described and it turned out to be a bad connection in the right hand switchgear where it joins the main harness.Gave the harness a wiggle and away it would go and then stop ,wiggle and good for a week .The connector had burnt out on one pin and I soldered in a bypass wire.Hope this helps.Kevman
 
I will check the coils for spark tomorow and give a good look at all of the connections. i know that wiring to coils is good have checked that numerous times and my max is 2005 if I remember right your ign. is and older model right but thanks a million anyways man. Damn I just wanna ride. 12hr day today though. having two jobs suck. You know it does sound like something wrong with the run switch some where b/c it acts like thats what is happening just flipping the run switch real quick. Thanks for the Idea kevman.
 
Since it is a 2005, I do have a stock ignition from my 02 I can send you, just let me know.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Found it. when moving down the rubber grommets to wedge in the coil space I expossed some metal surface let me tell you what that spark will jump to the head that is. I need to clean some stuff up still and clean the plugs to be for sure and wrap the coils but i think that was it.
 
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the spark is jumping from the coil stick to the head ? ?

that would indicate a bad coil.

If there is a good connection to wire harness/loom at the top, and it is plugged into the spark plug- should be no way the spark jumps "though" the coil to another ground.
 
ok iknow that it has been a long time but i still have the problem and some new things when i pull the front right coil plug and let run on three it putts away just fine a little slower but fine if i unplug any other it will chug ok then act like it misses a sec and then goes on and does this speraticly but often, still does it when switching around coils front right carb, well mabie bad o-ring or gasket some where carbs are synced and float levels are perfect i play with the fuel screw no change , have taken appart all carbs and cleaned , shotgun a lot of times and the pea shooter. mabie boot leak at front right carb right? well another problem and it has happened to me a couple of times going down the road, still with some sputtering and some acting up it will just completly die like the run switch was fliped but i just reciently found out how to get her started quickly just flip the run switch off then on hit the start button the vroom starts back up run switch? mabie or connection or mabie something being tripped that when i flip the run switch it resets it checked the connections at the connection by the key switch from right switch housing to main harness it looked good need to run a jumper to by pass the runswitch to check that off for sure bad relay? this making me mad enough to beat baby seals with a damn club. any help from anyone would be great. replaced ign. with another good one did the same thing, pickup coil tested ok too. done the crimp fix and tried to tighten all grounds.
 
You appear to have a discontinuity in the wiring somewhere. A defective relay is a possibility (check as per service manual) but it sounds more like a contact issue i.e. switch contacts or wiring connections to switches or even the connection of the wiring to the metal switch contacts. Something is losing contact.

Use a test light or multimeter to test continuity in that run switch. Trace the lines back down the harness and test each section. Jiggle the connectors as you test. You might isolate the faulty part that way.

You should also examine the connections to the ignition switch. The internals of the switch wear, get dirty and sometimes the spring loaded contact plates brake. IF you jiggle the key while the engine is running or jiggle the harness to the switch you might be able to make the engine stumble or stop altogether.

If it does you are closer to the answer.
 
I have been having troubles since getting her going after winter, done the cop mod and went to go on a ride and ran like crap poping backfiring the good stuff came back checked cop wiring, it was good checked plugs and they were good (cleaned anyway). So I start with the carbs shotgun 4 times, pea shooter 2, completly disassembled and cleaned throughly, seafoam, helped a bit but while crusing and at times at wot would act like completly no ign. power for a sec and then go back and do it again. completly speratic. twice has died completly had to pull over and shut it off check this over then hop on and it would start back up like nothing was wrong. could this also be the timing advancer that I have but it does this at idle also and tonight while trying to attempt to sync. left rear pipe was just barley warm and the bike ran like poo poo. Did not have my tools to check
spark. wadda you guys think? BTW what were the specs to check on the cop mine are gsxr 750 from 07 bike.

When mine did that last year (the sudden die, pull over and shut it off, then it'll fire back up like there was no prob.) turned out to be the ground wire on the radiator fill neck.
I cut the wire back, put a new end on it and problem disappeared!
 
I didnt read the whole post but have you checked your plugs??? One of mine had a small gap that I didnt find until after checking everything else and was exhibiting all the symptoms u r describing.
Cheers
 
I would definitly check the switches -ign, kill and kickstand. Pull the switches apart clean the contacts its a pain but they corrode easy. Also while your at it do the same for the reserve switch [that was the one that screwed up first for me] use dielectric grease on the contacts
 
now for check ing the ign cutoff relay the manual on vmaxoutlaw dosen't quite work for mine b/c the book showed 9 wires going to it and mine only has 6 so does any one have an idea of how to test the ign. cutoff relay?
 
Joey, you are looking at the wrong relay. The SCCR has four wires. The fuel pump relay has six. The SCCR has black/yellow, red/white, sky blue and red/black wires. The online manual is for early models. To test late model SCCR's do the following.

1. Disconnect connector to relay.
2. Apply voltage from battery using jumper wires to red/black and black/yellow relay terminals.
3. Measure Ohms between red/black and red/white relay terminals.
 
not for sure but i also tried the diode pack test and it somewhat failed because one way it is supposed to be 0 ohms at 1k and infinate ohms the other and the one way that it was supposed to be 0 ohms it showed somewhere around 20-35 once again this was from the manual on vmaxoutlaw so mabie this would not work the same. also i unpluged the kickstand switch and it still done the same thing and also cleaned the runswitch which was not dirty really but cleaned and applied dielectric grease. have not tried the relay yet. mabie tomorow.
 
Fuel level sensor/ fuel reserve switch?

Fuel pump won't operate while you're riding and you're carbs are running dry, resetting the stop switch will start the fuel pump for a few seconds to refill your float bowls and give you a few more miles of petrol
 
fuel pump is A ok i have had the float level clear hose on and had the bike running and they were all where they were supposed to be.
 
joelyons50023,

I like to ride my bike more than I like to work on it. Maybe something is wrong with my attitude?

I hope you get your headache solved. I am making progress with mine.
I just replaced the R/R and solved the voltage problem, but it seems as when the bike got hot after riding for about 1/2 hour or so and the radiotor kicked on then the bike died and the speedo light would shut off when I was trying to start the bike.

Any thoughts anyone?

-Paul
 
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