ball, fused, pushrod Pushrod and ball fused together

[RempageR1]

[FONT=&quot]Hi,

I was disassembling my clutch and found the pushrod (20) and the ball (23) fused together. Also there was quite some wear on the pushrod 2 (22), see picture attached.


[/FONT][FONT=&quot]To get the ball from the pushrod I had to put it in a vice and even then it was quite some work. Has anybody any idea what could have caused this? The clutch wasn't slipping but I did find it hard do find neutral.

Thanks![/FONT]

 

[one2dmax]

I've got plenty of both you can have for cheap if you need it. I've never seen it happen on a Vmax but i've heard of it happening on dragbikes. Usually it's from inadequate lubricate while the bike is in motion. So, shutting off the bike and coasting for a lengthy period of time?

 

[RempageR1]

I've got plenty of both you can have for cheap if you need it. I've never seen it happen on a Vmax but i've heard of it happening on dragbikes. Usually it's from inadequate lubricate while the bike is in motion. So, shutting off the bike and coasting for a lengthy period of time?

Hi,

I had a fuell issue once while I was on the road and coasted for about 1 KM. Could that already have caused it?

The first pushrod (20) I already have since I bought a complete cluch from ebay some years ago. Previous owner messed up the basked and welded it back together... The other two I might contact you about.

The other issue I have is that it`s hard to find neutral. Could an upgraded shift segment help with this? I`ve got the old style `85 segment but all pins still look good.

Thanks.

 

[MaxMidnight]

The other issue I have is that it`s hard to find neutral. Could an upgraded shift segment help with this? I`ve got the old style `85 segment but all pins still look good.

If it ain't broke then I suspect you will see any improvement but it wouldn't do any harm.
If you have the clutch basket it would be worthwhile checking the gear change claw

Also check that there isn't a lot of slop in the change lever pivot and/ or ball joints.
Also make sure the tick-over isn't set too high.

 

[RempageR1]

Also make sure the tick-over isn't set too high.

Hi MaxMidnight,

Thank you for your help. I will check the gear change claw.

Could you please elaborate on the tick-over?

Thank you.

 

[Bill Seward]

Brit-speak for idle speed.

 

[MaxMidnight]

As Mr Seward says. I have found on mine that the higher the tick-over (idle speed) the more of a *!+** neutral is. I set mine as low as I can to get a stable idle.

Also note that the diagram refers to an XS650 so may not look exactly the same as on the Max. The principle, however, is the same.

 

[RempageR1]

Thank you both.

The idle speed is as specified in the manual but I might bring it down a little. Not too far as it might be bad for the oil pressure.

The hook is indeed a couple of mm out of the middle so I will adjust that.

Since it`s winter over here and parts of the bike are sent for painting, it could take a wile before I have an update

 

[Bill Seward]

Steve is correct about a too high idle speed. In my case, idling about the width of the needle below 1000 rpm makes it a lot easier to find neutral. First gear also engages easier..