Bench racing time!!!

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cgswss

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Well It’s that time of year… so time for some bench racing!

Soooo lets say I just won the lotto and have a few bucks to spend on moding my ’97 V-max. Now I want this to drive on the street and I kinda want a Q-ship. That is, if a crotch rocket pulls up next to me, I would like him to think I just put a pipe on my stocker. That means no huge carbs hanging off the engine and using the stock air box.

As this is bench racing- I’d love to have input from you guys.

So I’ll start with the “for sure” stuff.

Morley Muscle “large cut” seat-carbon/black, silver thread, “VMax” on the flip
Raptor shift light
Braced swing arm
SS brake and clutch lines

1500 engine (remember we are limited to stock carbs-so I don’t think I could go to the 1570)

Stage 1 port work and multi angle valve job

#3 Cams

Valve springs

Jet kit

(back years ago when I was racing, there were a lot of people boring carbs a couple MM larger- I haven’t heard anyone talking about that now)

Sportshat 1 ? drive shaft
(thinking about as long as I’m doing the swing arm and shaft, maybe extending the swing arm a bit. Only problem being that if you stretch it much it soon no longer look “stock”… maybe add like 2 inches)

Frame braces
(haven’t decided which. Thinking the ones with a weld on tab might be best)

Holeshot 4-2 SS exhaust system.
(Thinking this one because their Dyno charts show such strong 6000 to 8000 power)

I haven’t seen anyone with real dyno numbers that show the Dynatek 3000 Ignition does any good, but I might include that just for the rev limiter and see what the effect is when on the Dyno.

Originally I was thinking of light after market wheels too, but that blows the “Q-ship” look. I was also originally thinking of a 17 on the rear to lower the drive ratio, but with the big engine I think that would hurt rather then help.

Maybe a Stack multifuction tack


And the last thing on the list is a Ducati Diavel. Hell I hit the lotto after all, I need something to drive while the work is being done on the V-Max!
 
Well Craig, I too like the stock muscular look of the gen 1, I personally would throw a 50hp nitrous wet kit on and get the same results at a fraction of the cost, yes I know you have to keep refilling the bottle but you only need to show them once.............:punk:...................Tom..............I would go with frame braces too.
 
If you have the "know how", a turbo would be the way. If you're gonna use nitrous maybe a 60 shot at most for a stock engine.
 
Lotto winner , put a Gen 2 motor in and supercharge it . Screw the Q-Ship look , whatever that is.
 
Well It?s that time of year? so time for some bench racing!

Soooo lets say I just won the lotto and have a few bucks to spend on moding my ?97 V-max. Now I want this to drive on the street and I kinda want a Q-ship. That is, if a crotch rocket pulls up next to me, I would like him to think I just put a pipe on my stocker. That means no huge carbs hanging off the engine and using the stock air box.

As this is bench racing- I?d love to have input from you guys.

So I?ll start with the ?for sure? stuff.

Morley Muscle ?large cut? seat-carbon/black, silver thread, ?VMax? on the flip
Raptor shift light
Braced swing arm
SS brake and clutch lines

1500 engine (remember we are limited to stock carbs-so I don?t think I could go to the 1570)

Stage 1 port work and multi angle valve job

#3 Cams

Valve springs

Jet kit

(back years ago when I was racing, there were a lot of people boring carbs a couple MM larger- I haven?t heard anyone talking about that now)

Sportshat 1 ? drive shaft
(thinking about as long as I?m doing the swing arm and shaft, maybe extending the swing arm a bit. Only problem being that if you stretch it much it soon no longer look ?stock?? maybe add like 2 inches)

Frame braces
(haven?t decided which. Thinking the ones with a weld on tab might be best)

Holeshot 4-2 SS exhaust system.
(Thinking this one because their Dyno charts show such strong 6000 to 8000 power)

I haven?t seen anyone with real dyno numbers that show the Dynatek 3000 Ignition does any good, but I might include that just for the rev limiter and see what the effect is when on the Dyno.

Originally I was thinking of light after market wheels too, but that blows the ?Q-ship? look. I was also originally thinking of a 17 on the rear to lower the drive ratio, but with the big engine I think that would hurt rather then help.

Maybe a Stack multifuction tack


And the last thing on the list is a Ducati Diavel. Hell I hit the lotto after all, I need something to drive while the work is being done on the V-Max!

Either go chain drive (nobody but the vmax guys will notice) or use the stock driveshaft with and extension that Jedi makes (I bought mine through Sean) otherwise you risk blowing the hell out of the back of the block, seen it 2 times here locally and Sean told me about it too so at least with the stock driveshaft it'll break before anything else... Other than that you seem to be on the right track, and just put a wet kit on it (if your extending the swingarm you can mount the bottle to the gas tank in front of the tire and nobody will see it) and have some fun. Real close to the end goal I have in mind for my bike, right now it's lowered, stretched 3" with a Shinko 200/50-18 and an 85 front wheel with a 110/80-18, pulled the heads and did mild porting myself and used cometic head gaskets and arp studs to reassemble, Morley jet kit, Dyna, cops, air shifter, and a 60 shot of juice (bottle is hid as described above) and I've went a best of 10.53 so far but way more left in it and that's with a stock engine (except for mods listed above) and I'm a heavy guy (I weighed about 275 in my gear) so with a bigger engine that will take a bigger shot of juice it can be a force to be reckoned with. All I'm planning this winter are a fresh clutch, some cosmetic stuff (fresh paint and a little more chrome) and I'm installing a progressive controller for the nitrous. I'm hoping to run low 10's with my current jetting but I'll probably take it up to a 80 shot for a day to try to crack the 9's with it :punk:
 
Lotto winner , put a Gen 2 motor in and supercharge it . Screw the Q-Ship look , whatever that is.

From another of my posts:
"I grew-up in that area of western NY & there were a lot of bikes around there in that era. That's a good condition one. The price is a bit steep, but you would spend a lot more than that to get a ratty one into the same shape, so actually, it's not unfair to ask that much.

I have an acquaintance, Dave Robinson who with his brother Tom, was a local in Rochester motorcycling. Tom's son has a motorcycle business in the area. Dave owned a dealership in Rochester, and their parents owned Robinson Cycles on Ridge Rd. in Spencerport in the 1960's. They sold English and Spanish bikes. Dave I think sold Kawis. They have a great history of competition going back into the 1960's and into their 60's! Some colorful characters. They can spin some tales.

As-for the "100 mpg," see me for some prime FL real-estate!

A schoolmate of mine in MI ran a Superhawk engine in his Dream chassis, since the Superhawk had nearly twice the H.P. of the Dream. It was what the Brit's called during WW II a "Q-ship."

I currently own a Superhawk w/< mi than this one claims."

Q-ships carried concealed guns & would try to get a German U-boat to try & capture them by threat of destruction on the surface (the sub would force the crew to abandon ship & use their deck gun to sink it, saving their torpedoes). The Q-ships would allow the German U-boat to come to the surface & to threaten the ship. The Q-ship would then remove their concealments from their deck guns and sink the sub. They were highly-effective. The U-boat commanders became much-more cautious about approaching ships once they figured-out what was happening.
 
Well Craig, I too like the stock muscular look of the gen 1, I personally would throw a 50hp nitrous wet kit on and get the same results at a fraction of the cost, yes I know you have to keep refilling the bottle but you only need to show them once.............:punk:...................Tom..............I would go with frame braces too.

I keep thinking If someone makes a "back hump" (like on cafe racers) to replace the passenger seat, I might find a NO2 system small enough to fit in there... so no one would know I had it. But that wouldn't do me much good when we get together for a four hour ride... a four hour ride.
 
I have a history with this Q-ship stuff (BMFG)

My 409 chevy had 283 tags on it

My GTO (tri power bob cat) had lemans tags on it

my 396 had 327 tags

my ram air IV (bob cat) had OHC 6 tags on it

My 500 victor had 250 tags on it

my TT600 had 250 tags on it

my 650 Honda had 500 tags on it

my 305 super hawk has 160 tags on it

my GS1100 had 550 tabs on it

And purely as a joke, my 427 vette with side pipes and tri power has 350 tags on it. (you don't know how many people actually asked it that was really a 350!!!)
 
Lotto winner , put a Gen 2 motor in and supercharge it . Screw the Q-Ship look , whatever that is.

Can a Gen 2 motor even fit in a Gen 1 frame? I would think you would have to move all the electrics as well. Maybe the shaft and pumpkin as well. In fact, IF you could get in the frame, I'm thinking one would have to about a whole Gen 2 bike to have the parts you would need for the "conversion"

Naw- thats no fun. This is a bench racing thread after all (BMFG)
 
I have a history with this Q-ship stuff (BMFG)

My 409 chevy had 283 tags on it

My GTO (tri power bob cat) had lemans tags on it

my 396 had 327 tags

my ram air IV (bob cat) had OHC 6 tags on it

My 500 victor had 250 tags on it

my TT600 had 250 tags on it

my 650 Honda had 500 tags on it

my 305 super hawk has 160 tags on it

my GS1100 had 550 tabs on it

And purely as a joke, my 427 vette with side pipes and tri power has 350 tags on it. (you don't know how many people actually asked it that was really a 350!!!)
Yeah, and I'm gonna put Harley Davidson tags on my Gen II :rofl_200:
 
Can a Gen 2 motor even fit in a Gen 1 frame? I would think you would have to move all the electrics as well. Maybe the shaft and pumpkin as well. In fact, IF you could get in the frame, I'm thinking one would have to about a whole Gen 2 bike to have the parts you would need for the "conversion"

Naw- thats no fun. This is a bench racing thread after all (BMFG)

Really wouldn't make sense.......unless the Gen 2 was a total wreck. The Gen 2 suspension/frame/brakes are light years ahead of the Gen 1's.

A Gen 1 can make as much power as a Gen 2 anyway.......but to make the bikes completely equivalent it's cheaper to buy a used Gen 2.
 
Or crack the block doing it!..................:biglaugh:...................Tom.

Naah, I'm pretty sure the block will be fine... The transmission on the other hand I'm not so sure about... LOL Don't go puttin any bad ju ju on me now Tom... ;)

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
 
Negative on the thicker driveshaft. It's like using grade 8 bolts on a tractors PTO coupling to a brush hog. First rock you hit you're replacing the PTO out drive instead of the cheap cad played bolts that belong there.
I've broken two driveshafts with the stock motor and both times I thanked god it wasn't the tranny.
 
Negative on the thicker driveshaft. It's like using grade 8 bolts on a tractors PTO coupling to a brush hog. First rock you hit you're replacing the PTO out drive instead of the cheap cad played bolts that belong there.
I've broken two driveshafts with the stock motor and both times I thanked god it wasn't the tranny.

This is unbelievable... It was warm today and I did some brushhoging... until I sheared a bolt in the drive shaft...
 
This is unbelievable... It was warm today and I did some brushhoging... until I sheared a bolt in the drive shaft...

Cool. I learned this one back when I was fourteen and used to show up down towards Saragosa Texas at 4:00 am and cut alfalfa every morning and then use a separate tractor to blow it into grain trucks for a local feed yard. I got tired of replacing those sheared bolts four five times a day and thought I was being smart by installing a hardened steel bolt in the coupling.
Sheared the splined PTO drive completely off the back of the tractor and had one pissed of farmer.
That's what he got for letting a 14 year old loose on his tractor haha!

Seriously tho that was a pretty cool summer job. Trying to stay awake on a tractor with hit exhaust blowing in your face was kinda tuff tho. The grain truck drivers used to get whiny because the crooked rows I laid down while trying to stay awake with the cutter had to be followed over by them when we went back and loaded it.
 
I haven’t seen anyone with real dyno numbers that show the Dynatek 3000 Ignition does any good, but I might include that just for the rev limiter and see what the effect is when on the Dyno.

I will sell you a new aftermarket TCI, with programmable rev limiter, two programmable outputs for a shift light or any thing you want to control based on RPM's. Fully modifiable timing curve & it can control the V-boost also fully programmable.

Includes new MAP sensor.

$265 via paypal, Computer hookup usb/com cable is $15.00 more.

Can be setup for 85-07 bikes.

Gary
 

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I will sell you a new aftermarket TCI, with programmable rev limiter, two programmable outputs for a shift light or any thing you want to control based on RPM's. Fully modifiable timing curve & it can control the V-boost also fully programmable.

Includes new MAP sensor.

$265 via paypal, Computer hookup usb/com cable is $15.00 more.

Can be setup for 85-07 bikes.

Gary

Thanks Gary, but this is just bench racing... I didn't really win the lotto. I really live on SS (yes I'm old) so I have to day dream about these things while I ride my stocker. Which is a wonderful thing... when Its warm
 
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