Bias vs Radial

[Bigjim]

I currently have OE type and size tyres that are getting on and will need replacing soon .
I am after some opinions on new set of std size tyres in Metzler or shinko vs new set of the fatter bias tyres vs new wheels and radials ?
I don't expect it to be able to go around corners like a sports bike but
It would be good to corner better than it does now .
Cheers

 

[Fire-medic]

Lots of info on radials & how to go there cheaply-new rear wheel & reuse the stock front, not optimal but the difference in handling is v. worth the expense! Sean Morley has Carrozzeria wheels but my bike probably isn't worth much more than those. V. light though & a premium solution.

Use the search for radials posts, your most-complete source.

 

[Bigjim]

Wanted to know if it is worth looking at better bias tyres too or would I just throwing money away ?

 

[scuff]

Wanted to know if it is worth looking at better bias tyres too or would I just throwing money away ?

I have the same dilemma I just replaced my steering head bearings and put on new Shinko's had my bike about a year now been riding on Dunlops I hear they are terrible compared to Shinko's and my bearings looked like they had been replaced but with no grease at all which made my steering feel notchy, I haven't been able to ride it yet since the changes due to rainy weather hope to ride it soon and will report back.

 

[Fire-medic]

Better is always better. Especially when your life depends on their function. I would save for a used modded rear wheel in ~5.5" x 17 or 18" & get radials. If your forks & steering head are in good shape the difference in feel is considerable & more if either of those components need servicing. I went from new bias to new radials & the change was worth every penny. I am an enthusiastic cornering person so it made my riding much more-fun.

 

[Biker Dash]

Ok, if you have to save up for the conversion to radials, then you might want to replace the tires with better quality Biased for now. Depending on how long it will take to save, you do have a couple options. You can go with the relatively inexpensive Shinkos which I hear handle WAY better than the OEM choices, though they do not last very long, or you can go with a more expensive set, which will give you longer wear, and still better handling than stock.

I went with Avon Venoms in 120/90-18 and 170/80-15. They handle WAY better than the stock, and have a rep for lasting longer than stock as well. Still, Radials would be even more of an improvement, I'd imagine.

 

[fatbiker]

Every time I read about someone switching to radials they always mention that the real wheel needs to be changed. I have an 86 Max which I'm pretty sure has the stock rear wheel and I'm running Shinko Tourmaster 230's which I believe are radials. Am I looking at a potential rear failure or what?

Fatbiker

 

[Traumahawk]

Every time I read about someone switching to radials they always mention that the real wheel needs to be changed. I have an 86 Max which I'm pretty sure has the stock rear wheel and I'm running Shinko Tourmaster 230's which I believe are radials. Am I looking at a potential rear failure or what?

Fatbiker

I have run those before....and they are bias ply.



Sent from my PB99400 using Tapatalk 2

 

[DMAN999]

Every time I read about someone switching to radials they always mention that the real wheel needs to be changed. I have an 86 Max which I'm pretty sure has the stock rear wheel and I'm running Shinko Tourmaster 230's which I believe are radials. Am I looking at a potential rear failure or what?

Fatbiker

Shinko Tour Master 230's are BIAS ply not Radial.

@ Bigjim,
I'd definitely put Shinko TM 230's in the Stock sizes on your max, they absolutely inspire confidence in the twisties and are a night and day difference vs. the OEM Bridgestone or Dunlop tires.
Also I'd invest in some Progressive Suspension or Racetech fork springs to tighten up the front end.
And if you still feel you need better handling after all that invest in a new rear wheel that will allow you to run Radials.

 

[scuff]

Ok just got back from a ride of about 1 1/2 hrs, Much improved over the Dunlops and bad steering head bearings, So far I would say if you don't have $1000.00 (if you can get a Kosman modded wheel) or even more if you get Car's or any of the other wheels out there, the Shinko's are good enough to get you by, I will be going on an all day ride Saturday with The Hooligan's I will be able to tell more after that will report back more after Sat.

 

[Bigjim]

Ok just got back from a ride of about 1 1/2 hrs, Much improved over the Dunlops and bad steering head bearings, So far I would say if you don't have $1000.00 (if you can get a Kosman modded wheel) or even more if you get Car's or any of the other wheels out there, the Shinko's are good enough to get you by, I will be going on an all day ride Saturday with The Hooligan's I will be able to tell more after that will report back more after Sat.

Sounds like it may be worth at look at doing the same , looking forward to here how you go on your ride with the shinkos . What sizes are you running ?
Cheers

 

[04modwrx]

i have shinko tourmaster 230's and i swear at least the front is warped. the bike wobbles like crazy around fast turns. i have looked at the front at speed and it definately is not 100% straight. These tires have only about 1000 miles on them but i just bought the bike so i have no warranty. i dont feel very comfortable getting another set of "Shinko

 

[scuff]

Ok got back from a long ride last Sat, Shinko's grip like hell compared to Dunlop's almost thought I ruined my trans, but it was just the nut under the drive shaft got a little loose must be from the harder launches, I can say without a doubt I can comfortably navigated corners at least 15mph faster with the new tires and steering bearings, I'm running stock size on the front and a 170 on the rear, so far so good with the Shinko's jury is still out on going to Radials over the winter leaning toward no at this time thinking Shinko's might be good have other mods I would like to do first.

 

[DMAN999]

i have shinko tourmaster 230's and i swear at least the front is warped. the bike wobbles like crazy around fast turns. i have looked at the front at speed and it definately is not 100% straight. These tires have only about 1000 miles on them but i just bought the bike so i have no warranty. i dont feel very comfortable getting another set of "Shinko

I run a Shinko TM 230 Rear (stock size) with a Bridgestone Battlax BT45V front (Metzeler Lasertec front works well too) and I love this combination.
I currently have a Bridgestone Exedra Max rear on my max, but I'll be putting a Shinko TM 230 back on after this tire wears out.

Ok got back from a long ride last Sat, Shinko's grip like hell compared to Dunlop's almost thought I ruined my trans, but it was just the nut under the drive shaft got a little loose must be from the harder launches, I can say without a doubt I can comfortably navigated corners at least 15mph faster with the new tires and steering bearings, I'm running stock size on the front and a 170 on the rear, so far so good with the Shinko's jury is still out on going to Radials over the winter leaning toward no at this time thinking Shinko's might be good have other mods I would like to do first.

I agree, I used a Shinko TM 230 rear for 3 seasons and LOVE it.
I did burn up my clutch doing a burnout with the first one and learned my lesson.
They are too sticky for Burnouts, But fantastic for riding the twisties !!!
I honestly can't see radials being enough of an improvement to justify the cost.
I can ride twisties as fast as I ever plan to on the Shinko rear/Battlax front BIAS combo.

 

[Bigjim]

Thanks for the good feed back on the shinkos , I think it might be worth giving them ago and spend some money on other upgrades instead of going radials.
Cheers

 

[racerboy]

squeeze a 130 0n the front?

Hmmm, I wonder, will a 130/80/18 fit up front?

 

[davesax36]

Not "safely" on a stock rim. That needs at least a 3" width, I think.

 

[Fire-medic]

Re: squeeze a 130 0n the front?

The profile of the stock rim width using such a wide tire will cause your tire profile to be all-wrong, and unsafe to operate.

Hmmm, I wonder, will a 130/80/18 fit up front?

 

[Fire-medic]

Use a runout gauge if spinning the front wheel w/the front end in the air shows you the wheel rim is out of round and 'wobbling.' Spec is 2 mm (0.08")or less for lateral runout. Check both sides.

Also check the rubber mold marks and be sure the tire is correctly seated on the bead to the rim. You should see the mold marks, or tire sidewall markings, in the same relationship to the edge of the wheel, around the entire circumference, on both sides. Normally this would be very apparent upon mounting the wheel/tire, if it was 'off.'

There are many other causes of front end wobble, including differing levels of oil in the front downtubes (evidenced by oil deposits on the sliders, due to blown fork seals), or loose steering head bearings, or worn ones, or wheel bearings. Grab the front wheel/tire at the top while standing on the side of the bike, and try to wiggle the top of the tire sideways. You should have no play. You also might try adding some air to the front suspension. Up to 15 psi, each side, min. 5 psi.

i have shinko tourmaster 230's and i swear at least the front is warped. the bike wobbles like crazy around fast turns. i have looked at the front at speed and it definately is not 100% straight. These tires have only about 1000 miles on them but i just bought the bike so i have no warranty. i dont feel very comfortable getting another set of "Shinko

 

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Re: squeeze a 130 0n the front?

Hmmm, I wonder, will a 130/80/18 fit up front?

It fits with a 3x18 rim.
A few here have done it.

120 is as wide as you want to go with the stock rim.