Bike just died while syncing carbs.....

[dlopes]

Ok, I was syncing the carbs, it stalled out. I tried to start it again and now shes dead.

Here is what's working,

Headlight,
running lights
turn signals,
horn,
front and rear brake lights

Here is the dead list,

Starter,
fan,
neutral light,
Fuel pump.

All fuses are good. I checked them with a meter.

I also disconnected the starter relay to see if it was shorting everything out. No change.

I disconnected the fan to see if it was shorting out the bike, no change.

I put a meter on the starter relay input connector and pushed the start button, no change at all on the meter.

Is there a fuse hidden away somewhere besides the main power and the four fuses in the fuse box?

Any ideas? CPU? Diode box? Any other electrical part?

 

[1st Shirt Maxer]

My though goes to the run switch on the bars. maybe gummed up and dirty not making good contact. outside of that, im stumped.


David Justiss
USAF First Sergeant

 

[Miles Long]

Ok, I was syncing the carbs, it stalled out. I tried to start it again and now shes dead.

Here is what's working,

Headlight,
running lights
turn signals,
horn,
front and rear brake lights

Here is the dead list,

Starter,
fan,
neutral light,
Fuel pump.

All fuses are good. I checked them with a meter.

I also disconnected the starter relay to see if it was shorting everything out. No change.

I disconnected the fan to see if it was shorting out the bike, no change.

I put a meter on the starter relay input connector and pushed the start button, no change at all on the meter.

Is there a fuse hidden away somewhere besides the main power and the four fuses in the fuse box?

Any ideas? CPU? Diode box? Any other electrical part?

The kill switch was my first guess as well, however - the neutral light will still work, if the switch is off, or disabled. Another quick way to check for proper switch operation is to shut if off, turn it to "run". You will hear the v-boost go thru it's test cycle each time the switch is set to run.
The fan is controlled by a thermo switch (coolant must be at a certain temperature before the fan will start). Easiest way to confirm for proper operation would be to check for battery voltage at the fan motor fuse connection, when the ignition switch is "on"
As for the neutral light, fuel pump and starter, there is a component common to all - the Starting Circuit Cutoff Relay. The starter will only operate when the transmission is in neutral, or when the clutch lever is pulled in when the sidestand is up.
First check the obvious - is the bike actually in neutral ? Check to make sure it rolls freely. Then check the sidestand switch. It may be sticking in the open position.
If all is well, disconnect the four- pin SCCR connector and clean it well, reassemble using di-electric grease. There are detailed procedures to check the relay electrically, but do the simple things first.
There are no other fuses in the stock harness besides the main and four fuse box assembly.
Cheers!
edit - not sure about this one, but it looks like a blown neutral light bulb could also effect the SCCR, causing the no-start. If so, this might explain why your bike died suddenly.

 

[tothemax93]

Is it out of gas?

 

[Lew L]

How old is the battery?? May have enough amperage to run a few lights but not enough to start the bike.Can you jump start with another battery??

Good luck,
Lew

 

[dlopes]

Well, I know it's not a gas issue.....lol

It's all good now!!

It ended up being the kill switch/start button controller on the bars. I had a spare and slaved it into the circuit. Not sure what is wrong with the bad one. I haven't opened it up. The neutral switch was out due to a bad wire. I think I just didn't notice it until it went tits up.

Thanks for the input everyone.