bolt pitches?

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donnelly317

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Are most bolt pitches 1.25??? Im away from home cant measure . Mainly looking for sissy bar to frame sock cap screws, handle bar clamp sock screws, the 6 sock screws that clamp forks, button screws on side covers, and tapered screw for the cylinder side covers. Any help is appreciated..I have size and length of all them just not thread pitch
 
Most of the 8mm are 1.25. Most of the 6mm are 1.0


Sean

Thanks sean!! I would order em threw you but seeing how im ordering chrome grade 8 bolts for the kosmans figured I would just add the couple of bolts on thebike I wanted to replace
 
this is for most but remembet 6 x 1. then the rest go up and down proportionally:

4x.7
5x.8
6x1
8x1.25
10x1.5 although there are quite a few 1.25 here too.

edited, i was wrong.
 
Last edited:
All I was looking for was a couple 6 and 8 mm. Thanks!!! I ordered all chrome bolts and nuts for kosman rim and some stainless for bike. Total came to $117 total of 94 fasteners

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All I was looking for was a couple 6 and 8 mm. Thanks!!! I ordered all chrome bolts and nuts for kosman rim and some stainless for bike. Total came to $117 total of 94 fasteners

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Oh my friend when you need bolts like that talk to me. I could get them for you for half the price...

Metric threads are as follows:

M3x0.5
M4x0.7
M5x0.8
M6x1
M8x1.25 - fine is 1mm pitch
M10x1.5 - fine is 1.25 and superfine is 1mm pitch
M12x1.75

Usually vmax uses standard threads and the majority of fine threads are M10x1.25 such as footpeg bolts and banjo bolts.
 
Well to late!!! But most were the chrome grade 8 standard thread for my kosman rims.. that's why it was so expensive. Only orders like 15 metric SS and those were dirt cheap. The big bucks were the chrome ones

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Let me tell you something. I don't like chrome bolts, they are sensible to tools and its easy for stripping some chrome. I prefer to polish stainless and it will last forever. This is if the required strength is no factor, of course i'd never use stainless for engine bolts besides covers if you know what i mean. I recently played around with some new bolts for my new calipers and made them out of stainless and they did the trick and look lovely and they don't need to cost you 100 bucks like titanium ones. I polished them a bit and they turned out pretty nice. For rims i would use stainless as well. I have stainless rotor bolts and all the bolts for the swingarm covers and such are stainless including the bolts that hold the rims together.

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Let me tell you something. I don't like chrome bolts, they are sensible to tools and its easy for stripping some chrome. I prefer to polish stainless and it will last forever. This is if the required strength is no factor, of course i'd never use stainless for engine bolts besides covers if you know what i mean. I recently played around with some new bolts for my new calipers and made them out of stainless and they did the trick and look lovely and they don't need to cost you 100 bucks like titanium ones. I polished them a bit and they turned out pretty nice. For rims i would use stainless as well. I have stainless rotor bolts and all the bolts for the swingarm covers and such are stainless including the bolts that hold the rims together.

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Yes i agree.. with that said. The chrome ones are only bought for the bolt together kosman
rims and sprocket bolts see I might have been able to get away with SS on front rim but I wouldn't go it on rear rim. There is no cushions with chain drive and it had grade 8 in there. I wouldn't trust SS on my rims if you don't know this is the rim..

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As you can see I wouldn't trust SS to bolt my rims together lol. Right now I have 135 hp at the tire and gonna get some more with the muscle kit im installing.. I was gonna coat the hex bolts and inside of socket head bolts with grease before I torque them that might allow for some cushion so the chrome wont chip.. but once there put back together I shouldn't have to take them apart again. :)






Haha I was lost at first!

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A threadocker compound is probably what you should be using on the bolts/nuts unless they have nylon inserts. I think "dry" is how the manufacturer of those wheels probably specifies they are to be used when fastened together. The cure of the compound in anaerobic (no 02) conditions is what makes that type of threadlocker "work." Grease won't let the fasteners achieve the correct torque when fastened, which could lead to stretching of the bolt beyond it's design parameters. Someone w/a mechanical engineering background should chime in here if I am wrong. The issue w/"nylok" nuts is that if the heating of the fastener is above the working range of the nylon insert, the fastener could loosen, not what you want for a structural fastener for your wheels. Maybe contact Kosman or Dymag and ask them. I bet they say, "no user-serviceable parts, return them to us for evaluation and disassembly or reassembly." And because the fasteners aren't theirs, they won't use them for liability reasons. Even disassembly may mean they won't re-use pieces, because they would have to perform some magnafluxing or other process to assure the structural integrity of the pieces. You could have used heat or force on the structural components which made them unsafe. They may not accept the liability.:confused2:
 
Haha no man I was gonna use lock tight on bolts. Im talking like the head of hex bolts and the inside of bore of socket head screws where tools contact chrome in hopes of no chiping.. maybe the grease will give a little cushion between chrome and tool and lubricant so it wont chip off the chrome. Never use grease on bolt threads unless it calls it out in manufacture specs

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And using grease changes torque coeificant where say it calls for 100 inlbs if you use grease depending on type if u set tq wrench to 100 inlbs you really could be putting 150-200 inlbs causing stretching of bolt and cracking of metal..

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