Bought ZX-14 Masters, Now Banjo Switches ?

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Cybergrizzly

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Ok, I bought a set of ZX-14 Clutch and Brake Masters with levers. Need to replace the micro switches and use the banjo bolt micro switches. Both measure the same and I think these are M10 x 1.25 (10mm x 1.25 pitch).

Questions:
1. Is the size correct and pitch correct ?
2. Both identical micro switch banjo bolts work for either the clutch or the brake masters?

I intend to buy a couple of these micro switch banjo bolts from Ebay that are for Nissin masters. See picture below.

Appreciate comments.
 

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Can't help since I didn't use them on my zx14 masters. I just kept the mini switches.

But I'm interested in the thread.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Why can't you use the switch that comes with the masters? I used it on my zx clutch master....I don't recall their being any issue.
 
The clutch master was sold without the micro switch and the right side brake master switch looks in a kinda awkward location, although the wire terminals could fit. I could just buy the Kawa OEM micro switch for the clutch master, but it would also still look in an awkward location.

Thought I might as well install the banjo style switches on both sides.
 
Use the stock microswitches... thats how i have mine with no issues at all... No need to clutter the line with banjo pressure switches...
 
The clutch master was sold without the micro switch and the right side brake master switch looks in a kinda awkward location, although the wire terminals could fit. I could just buy the Kawa OEM micro switch for the clutch master, but it would also still look in an awkward location.

Thought I might as well install the banjo style switches on both sides.

What do you mean by that?
 
Can confirm that the banjo switches are M10 z 1.25 and that they will work stop and clutch interlock.

If you want to tidy the handlebar area consider mounting the front brake switch on the splitter (assuming you still have it) and the clutch at the slave cylinder end.
You can also use one for the rear brake light.
 
Thank you, Vmaxers

Re: What do you mean by that? Przemek(Prez). Actually, the stock Vmax switch connectors point downwards and are easily attached. These ZX-14 stock switches point sideways towards the banjo bolt and the space is kinda limited.

But that's okay. After reading the comments herein and a couple after googling, I've decided to go with the stock clutch switch. I already have the brake switch so it would be cheaper as you say. Reaction time using mechanical switches should also be quicker.
 
Just make sure you get the switches for zx14. Don't reuse the vmax one if you have fitting issues.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Thank you, Vmaxers

Re: What do you mean by that? Przemek(Prez). Actually, the stock Vmax switch connectors point downwards and are easily attached. These ZX-14 stock switches point sideways towards the banjo bolt and the space is kinda limited.

But that's okay. After reading the comments herein and a couple after googling, I've decided to go with the stock clutch switch. I already have the brake switch so it would be cheaper as you say. Reaction time using mechanical switches should also be quicker.

That would be a good choice ;)
 
Is the ZX14 a good upgrade for these machines ? I have a buddy with a kawi dealer and there is a set sitting on the ground .
 
Not much of an upgrade if you switch the masters only, need to do masters and calipers dude... that will make a significant difference
 
I don't have any brake up grade on my machine , the radial master will make a big difference , I am trying to decide how I'm going to do mine .
I have a ZRX1200 master that looks a little more like the stock master but is designed to run a 6 pod caliper , I'm sure its a up grade from stock .
I know its nothing like my brembo masters on my other bikes . I'm also in the process of upgrading calipers and lines just not sure if I'm going to do the master .
 
When swapping master cylinders, like many things in life, yer don't get owt for nowt.

The lever ratio (i.e. the ratio of the cross sectional area [CSA] of the master cylinder piston to the CSA of the caliper pistons) will not only determine how much effort is required to move the caliper pistons but also the feel of the lever.

A lower ratio will mean that you move the lever less for a given piston movement but the feel will become more wooden and require more efforts the ratio reduces; conversely a smaller piston requires less effort but will increase the lever travel and will feel soggy.

By changing just the M/C you will definitely get a different feel but using one that intended for use with six pot calipers (assuming the CSA of the pistons is greater) then you may not get the feel you want.

Have a read of this.
 
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